Cloud9...68

To revisit the door lightening discussion, I have a few more questions:

- In descending order, what are the heaviest removable components in the door?

- The door panels weigh next to nothing, and deliver some sound deadening, aesthetic, and utilititarian (in the form of the pockets) benefits. Is it possible to remove the heaviest components from the door, but retain the panels? In other words, would it be possible to somehow utilize lexan witdows that are either removable or manually movable up and down inside the door, with the door panels in place?

- How difficult is it to make the lexan windows? I see GT Racing sells them, but they're surprisingly expensive.

951and944S

Not sure about accuracy of descending order but, window glass, motor, speakers, entire interior sheet metal (part hole sawed in above photo)

3/16 Lexan should replicate glass thickness, using old glass for template would reduce the size container necessary but boiling water will allow you to shape any curvature, probably a heat gun as well..

Paused message to go weigh a full loaded door for you but there's a d@mned wasp nest on 1 of the 3 I have laid up in a stack and I don't have any kill spray here.

Usually I walk right among them and never seem to get stung but one hit me in the right ear lobe a few weeks ago and I'm temporarily gun shy...

Weighed a stock hood before I saw that they were there though, 40lbs dead on the money, no hood latch, complete with WW squirters.

T

PF

The heaviest part you can remove is the crashbar.
And yes you can keep the doorpanels and use winding lexan windows. This is exactly what I did plus some additional lightening. You can take alot of material off the inside of the door just make sure you dont cut away the material were the doorpanels attaches. Also you can shed alot of weight from the manual winding mechanisms as you can see part of in the pic I posted before. As I wrote earlier I bought hardened scratch resistant lexan windows from plastics for performance in the UK which are shaped exactly like the stock glass windows and are very Nice and light. As I wrote before I also have Gf outer doorskins. Total weight of my door is 13kg VS stock 31-32kg. In the pic you can see how they turned out.

Hope that clarifies things for you
//Peder

PF

sm

PF

Thanks😀 No the rear hatch is lexan also. I am rebuilding the car after it has served as a racecar the last 15 years. It will become a 968 Turbo S replica now. I have no interior pics yet since it is not completed but it will look fully stock 968 clubsport/Turbo S. Weight before rebuild was 1140kg and I dont expect it too weigh above that when Im finished.

944crazy

Your car is beautiful Laust, and 1140kg is very impressive! Love those doors.

Cloud9...68

Thanks for all the responses - I had no idea lightening doors could be so involved! And thanks for the clarifications, PF - what you've done is exactly what I have in mind. But of course, the new info has spawned several new questions:

1. What does Gf mean?
2. Does the inner metal panel that PF drilled all the holes in contribute to the car's crash protection? I only have a roll bar/half cage, so no "NASCAR" style bars in the doors, so my only side protection comes from the door and its reinforcement.
3. How many (expensive!) metal hole saws did you go through cutting all those holes?!
4. How difficult is it to find a used manual window crank mechanism for these cars? A quick google search turned up nothing, although new manual conversion kits are available, but of course are not cheap, what with the "Porsche tax" and all...

sm

That is such a cool project. Could you please share what lightweight parts were used to get it down to 1140 kg (2500 lbs)??? I want to learn from you!

951and944S

Glass Fiber instead of Fiberglass.

They speak backwards over there..., and probably say "fibre" with an "e"....

T

PF

😀 Correct, we say glasfiber. And remember many of the words in the english language comes from the Vikings so you guys are almost Scandinavian💪

PF

1: Glass Fiber or glasfiber in Swedish.
2: Yes all lightening to the structure of the doors will influence safety.
3: 😀 None of them are wasted, still alot of life left in them.
4: Since my car is a clubsport it had them already. Here in Sweden we find parts like that on salvage yards or from fellow transaxle friends. You guys in the US have "Lart" to help with parts like that so check with him.

PF

There are alot of both big and small areas which has to be adressed to get the cars weight down. I wanted the car to look and work as a stock car which makes it both trickier and more expensive compared to a racecar.
My car will not be raced but used for autocross and trackdays so I dont have to fulfill any standards as a racecar is. Goal is a light, fast "old" car to upset the newer machinery with since I am not into those cars.

Doors as stated before
D9 front glassfiber fenders with 993 headlights
Glass Fiber hood
Lexan hatch
Recaro race seats
No cash bar in the rear and lightened in the front
No sound deadening inside just mats
Lightened wire harness were possible
Race batteri (2,5 kg)
BBS E88
Weichers aluminium cage 20kg lighter than steel and good extra protection on trackdays.
And alot of other small items.



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951and944S

Yeah, I used to go round and round with a Brit friend on an F1 forum I used to belong to.

He would always come up with some BS about "proper English" and I would have to remind him that English is Germanic...

T

951and944S

BTW, measured a complete door this morning, wasp/hornet spray in hand, 64 lbs, complete.

With mirror, interior door panel, speaker, etc.

T