Bimmerod

Hey Guys,

New to the Forum and looking for some guidance on an early 85 944 starting issue.

Background:
Car has been resting in a garage the past 10 years. After getting it all back together (clutch repair) I have run into this starting issue.

New Battery, Starter verified, all electrical contacts cleaned.

When I turn the ignition switch on (ACC) I get all the dash lights and things look good. When I attempt to start the car I get nothing, no click and no voltage to the ignition lead wire going to the solenoid.

If I use a remote starter button, I can start the car with another person "cranking the key" simultaneously with me pushing the button. So I have the fuel pump working and everything is fine once it's running.

It doesn't seem like I have a bad ignition switch since it is doing all the functions of a switch except sending voltage to the solenoid.

Could there be a relay that is bad or corroded that is causing this issue ?

Thanks for your time,

Bimmerod

ealoken

There is a relay that starts the Coil, injectors and fuelpump, ACC relay, it gets the power when cranking.

Bimmerod

Like I said in the above post, when the person inside the car is "cranking" I can start the car with a remote starter.

So it would appear that relay is working properly since I can start the car and it runs just fine.

Could there be an issue with the ignition switch itself that would affect it's ability to give power to the solenoid ? Even though it activates the fuel pump etc...

Bimmerod

ealoken

Check the cables fron the ignition switch to the relay, and to the starter.
Might have an old cable that has quit it`s job. Wich is common on these old ladies.

968workaholic

There is a white connector by the brake booster, it has a red w/black tracer wire and a tiny blue wire. The red goes to the solenoid on the starter from the ignition switch

Bimmerod

I replaced with the ignition switch and nothing changes. The key turns on to acc and then the Fuel Pump activates when in the crank position.

I have 12 volts to the blue wire when at acc at the connector next to the firewall and then 12 volts to the red/black wire when in the crank position.

I have checked continuity between the blue wire from the firewall down to the solenoid and that checks out.

Am I supposed to have 12v to the blue wire on the solenoid while cranking ???

Let me know your thoughts,

Bimmerod

Bimmerod

What is the color of the "Blue Wire" at the ignition switch ???

That way I can trace it under the dash to see if the wire is not broken or eaten by rats

Bimmerod

Well I looked for any damage to the wire ans cannot see anything broken or cut.

I also tried the alarm bypass just to see since it looks like that "Blue Wire" goes to the Alarm Module.

Unfortunately no change for anything I have tried.

The car will not crank, no matter what.

Starts and runs with the remote starter if someone turns the key to the crank position simultaneously.

Another weekend with nothing resolved

968workaholic

The small blue wire at the connection by the brake booster is the exciter wire for the alternator. It should not have continuity to the red and black wire. Sounds like the harness failed internally and the two wires are touching, effectively grounding out the circuit when you try and crank the car over.

marc abrams

You are having a problem with the number 50 buss circuit. It's a very simple circuit. Power flows from the igntion switch pin number 50. From there it goes into the fuse box through connector E, pin number 17. Thru the fuse box to connector A, pin number 10 on the fuse box. From that pin it goes to the number 50 teminal (the small one) on the starter. My guess is it's those connections on the fuse box.

marc abrams

I've just reread your posts. I'm not following you. What exactly is the car doing? No crank, no start, or no power in the car (like the dash lights go out while the key is in the crank position)without using the remote start? It sounds like the remote start also doubles starter or/and ignition interlock.

Bimmerod

Car will not crank.

Basically pos 1 & 2 work with the key but pos 3 doesn't engage the stater but it does activate the fuel pump. I have all the dash lights and everything else works fine.

When someone turn the key to the "crank" position, I can use the starter button to engage the starter. The car runs fine and all is good.

I looked at the wiring diagram and see that the Red/Black wire coming from the ignition switch feeds the circuit. I just can't seem to find the link between that wire and the alarm relay (blue wire) that goes to the solenoid.

If I link that wire Red/black from the ignition switch directly to the blue wire (at the connector by the fuse block) I can start the car with the key. Which I assume bypasses all of the above wires/alarm.

I just can't figure out why the alarm bypass doesn't work if there is actually a problem with that relay.

So short of tracing the whole wiring harness from the ignition switch to the alarm relay to the fuse block to find the issue, I was hoping someone knows what wire actually feeds the blue alarm/solenoid wire from the ignition switch.

Thanks,

Bimmerod

marc abrams

Okay, I think I understand going on. First off, get rid of the remote start system. All those aftermarket remote starts are garbage and shouldn't be in manual transmission car to begin with (unless you're a fan of the self driving automobile). There's no blue wire or relay used in the stock starter circuit. Sounds like they are part of the remote start. Go back to my post #10. You probably have power at the pin A10 from your description. Remember, the stock starter circuit is all red/black with no relays.

I Did find a remote start system that's actually pretty good:

Bimmerod

Hey Marc,

I think you got confused when I said remote start. I am not talking about a "remote start" system, I am simply talking about a start button with wires directly connected to the starter to essentially jump the starter.

I am really trying to figure out what wire(s) supply voltage to the start circuit in order for that blue wire to get energized.

Like I said, I followed the alarm bypass instructions several times, and yet I still get no crank with the key.

Short of removing more dash/console pieces in order to view more of the wire harness, I'm out of ideas.

Thanks,

Bimmerod

951and944S

Does the car have a clutch depress safety switch...?

Get on your back under the driver's dash and follow the clutch pedal and look for a 2 wire switch. If present, should have continuity with pedal pressed or released. Depending whether normally open or closed, you should be able to jumper it or open the circuit to make it functional.

T