Bimmerod

There seems to be a switch but everyone says there is not a safety switch on the clutch.

Nevertheless I closed the circuit to see if that made any difference and nothing !!!

So I have not idea what could be preventing this from cranking.

Bimmerod

951and944S

Yeah, definitely one there, verified it in PET after I posted the other day.

Plus, I had it wired into an aftermarket ECU on a project car for flat shift feature throttle cut.

Maybe it only interrupts cruise control.

Going look at schematic, see if I can solve this or make a diagnostic tree for you. My copy in PDF is pretty shady and hard to view though.

T

Bimmerod

Thanks for the info, like I said above, I closed that circuit with no change.

The fuel pump activates in the crank key position. I can even start the car with the alarm module not even plugged in. It just involves turning the key to the crank position while pushing the remote starter button like described above.

The car idles smooth so it would appear all things are working. No warning lights on the dash, nothing out of the ordinary.

I need to figure out which ignition switch wire(s) energize the blue solenoid wire. That way I can try to trace it back to look for any obvious damage.

I have looked at the wiring diagram and frankly I can't seem to even find the blue wire info. I definitely can't find any wiring info for a car with a factory alarm.

It just doesn't make any sense on why it does everything except crank?

Bimmerod

marc abrams

Bimmerod, exactly how do you know that you have no voltage at the starter solenoid, test light, voltmeter? Where exactly are you checking for power, starter teminal, along the red/black wire, A10 teminal?

Bimmerod

UPDATE 5-30-17 !!!!

I made it to the junkyard to look at another 944 to try to figure out what was installed wrong. After looking at the car I noticed that there was no "blue wire" going to the starter and in fact the "blue wire" was actually going to the alternator.

So it appears that I had the harness backwards after putting the motor back in the car. The Red/Black wire needed to go to the solenoid, not he the blue wire. In my defense I wasn't the one who took the motor out
I mean they both have a small and large eyelet connection but I should have known that the large Black wire should have went directly to the starter since it has to provide maximum juice.

Sooooooo, after switching the harness back to how it supposed to be, I am now able to crank the car with the key but it will only run for a couple seconds.

After some troubleshooting I have realized that I can make the car keep running by putting a 12v lead to the Red/Black wire (white connector) leading to the DME/ignition.

Of course I have to use my remote starter button in order to crank the car while someone else tunrs the key so the fuel pump primes the fuel rail.

Have I fried my DME by running it with the harness reversed ????

Just when you think you got it figured out, something else goes wrong :'( :'( :'(

Thanks in advance for your thoughts,

Bimmerod

968workaholic

Check your ignition switch

Bimmerod

Ignition switch is brand new.

I even tried with another working unit and still the same response, car starts then dies when hooked up normally.

I'm not sure what needs to give power to the DME or how that is routed but without that, the car will not run.

Bimmerod

ealoken

There is a relay that suplyes DME, Injectors ect with 12v, sounds like this has a failure.

Bimmerod

I have also tried the DME relay bypass and that has no effect on the condition.

Like I said above, the car will run if I provide 12v directly to the red/black ignition wire. Obviously I have the blue alternator wire and red/black solenoid wire unhooked at the time.

It will also run with the blue and red/black swapped at that white connector.

In both of those cases however, I have to use the remote starter button to engage the starter to get it to crank.

Thoughts ?

Bimmerod

ECU Doctors

Bimmerod,

Where are you with this project?

I was just reading this hoping I had read it before.

Let me know where you are, maybe I can lend a hand diagnosing.

Bimmerod

UPDATE 06-17-17 - Problem Solved !!!!

I finally got a known working DME unit. Plugged that one in and made sure everything was hooked up properly and the car started right up and kept idling as it should.

So it looks like if you cross the starter and alternator wires you will fry your DME.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions, I am sure I will be back soon with more things.

Take care,

Bimmerod