rfuerst

I have ordered a timing chain for my 1987-944S that has a master link,do I cut off the factory chain then replace with the new chain without touching the cams?I am thinking I do not have to remove the cams?I am also replacing the nylon wear block,any tips from someone who has done this would be appreciated.Thanks in advance.

Melchior

Procedures are found at this site:
<a href="http://porsche-944-garage.tripod.com/" target="_blank">http://porsche-944-garage.tripod.com/</a> <img src="graemlins/drink.gif" border="0" alt="[cherrsagai]" />

Michael Stephenson

Note that you do not have to remove all of the pulleys and such for the tensioner pad replacement (at least for the S2). You do need to remove the tensioner to replace the pad. While the tensioner is off, inspect the bottom pad for excessive wear and tear. To the best of my knowledge, the bottom tensioner pad is not available separately, so if the bottom pad looks suspect you will need to get a new tensioner.

Also, you might want to have a new cam cover gasket on hand. I tried to reuse my original one and I had more leakage than when I installed a new one.

Here is a good procedure for replacing the pad, but it does not address the timing chain: <a href="http://boerger.golden-tech.com/images/cam_chain_tensioner_replacement.htm" target="_blank">Cam Tensioner Replacement</a>

I am not sure about the chain, but I hope that it can be done without removing the cams as this is a procedure I need to perform as well.

Please let us know if you were able to replace the chain without removing the cams.

rfuerst

Thanks for the replys everyone.Michael I will post the results,I hope to receive the timing chain from Zims in the next 2-3 days and attempt the repair this weekend.I was talking to one of my gearhead buddies at work today and he made a suggestion about replacing the chain,if it can not be replaced without removing the cams I should try this-crank the engine over a couple of times so you know the normal rotation of the motor,then cover all the vitals like cams and oil cavities and then bring engine to TDC,then grind the 2 rivet heads on 1 link of the chain,when this is done you have created a master link,if for some reason you can not replace the chain by feeding under the sprockets then you can take the new chain,link it to the old chain and then slowly turn the engine by hand while keeping pressure on the chains against the sprockets and you are now feeding the new chain onto the sprockets while maintaining cam timing,he said thats how he used to do it on motorcycles.I will let everyone know the results. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

rfuerst

Well here is a update of sorts,I received my timing chain in the mail today and it was a 1 piece chain,no master link!! So I called Zims and was told it was supposed to have a master link but the vendor said they no longer make them.I called a couple of other places and got the same story,so I am putting her back together with the existing chain,new wear pad and new seals on the j-tube that feeds the tensioner.If anyone knows of someone that sells the chain with a master link please speak up.Thanks <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

Bryan Welch

Does anyone know the expected life or MTBF of the chain? I'd planned on replacing mine when I do the tensioner next month as it has 136,000 miles on it, then was persuaded to inspect it first and replace it only if the chain seems worn or damaged.

rfuerst

After I realized I could not get a chain with a master link,I inspected the chain and I did not see any flaws,excessive slack or anything that told me it had to be replaced.I may be taking a chance but with 140,000 miles I replaced the wear pad and kept the tensioner and chain. <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" />

flyloki

I was interested in replacing the chain as well but one concern I found in researching this is the cam sprocket wear. Someone noted that the chain and sprockets wear in tandem and replacing one (chain) without the other (sprockets, well cam actually as it one unit) may do more harm than good. This fits with my experience as a bicycle tech back in the day as we would frequently have to change the cogset if the chain was replaced. I'm banking that all will be well as long as the correct tension has been kept on the chain, the tensioner has been replaced, and chain and sprockets pass inspection. This may be key as replacing worn chains and cams would not be cheap but would be cheaper than a new motor.

JB
'89 S2 <img src="graemlins/burnout.gif" border="0" alt="[burnout]" />

Michael Stephenson

For anyone interested, here is a place to get cams, however I do not know much about them.

If I ever replace my cams, the mild grind looks like a real good option.

<a href="http://webcaminc.com/porsche-auto.html#9" target="_blank">944 16 V Cams</a>

EDIT: In looking closer at this site, it appears that the basic price is for modifying/regrinding your existing cams, which may not help the cam sprocket situation.

rpm's S2

Michael - did you catch the 944 meet next month in Winston-Salem thread?

Michael Stephenson

rpm's S2,

Yes I read the threads, thank you. I just posted to the May 19th thread.