Rough Idle / Missing
#1
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Rough Idle / Missing
I started my car this morning, it idled very rough. I started driving down the street, it was running rough like it was not firing on all cylinders. A mile down the road, the problem was gone, it ran fine all the way to work (15 miles).
I went to lunch that afternoon, everything was fine, I stopped at a restaurant, when I was finished I headed back to work, as I was heading back the problem came back. I made it back to work. After work, I headed back home, everything was fine for the first 4 miles, then the problem came back, it was a struggle to keep the car going, however I limped home. Now my car is resting in the garage. Does anybody know what this problem could be ???
I went to lunch that afternoon, everything was fine, I stopped at a restaurant, when I was finished I headed back to work, as I was heading back the problem came back. I made it back to work. After work, I headed back home, everything was fine for the first 4 miles, then the problem came back, it was a struggle to keep the car going, however I limped home. Now my car is resting in the garage. Does anybody know what this problem could be ???
#2
Check your motor temperaturesensor (NTC).It should read approx. 1.6 k Ohm at 20°C.
It is located under the caburettor (?)in the motor block easy to access and to see when you stand in front of the car.
It is on the top left of the picture.
It is located under the caburettor (?)in the motor block easy to access and to see when you stand in front of the car.
It is on the top left of the picture.
#4
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[quote]Originally posted by 1991 944 S2 GA:
<strong>I started my car this morning, it idled very rough. I started driving down the street, it was running rough like it was not firing on all cylinders. A mile down the road, the problem was gone, it ran fine all the way to work (15 miles).
I went to lunch that afternoon, everything was fine, I stopped at a restaurant, when I was finished I headed back to work, as I was heading back the problem came back. I made it back to work. After work, I headed back home, everything was fine for the first 4 miles, then the problem came back, it was a struggle to keep the car going, however I limped home. Now my car is resting in the garage. Does anybody know what this problem could be ???</strong><hr></blockquote>
Well, I just found out what the problem was. I had a specialist check it out, the #4 cylinder was lacking compression. He pulled off the cam cover and found pieces of a valve spring that had broken. The good news is that the valve did not drop down into the cylinder. I am having the head sent out to a specialist to evaluate the condition of the head, valves, springs, etc. Hopefully the 1 spring breaking was just a fluke. This will still cost me a bit no matter what the outcome is.
<strong>I started my car this morning, it idled very rough. I started driving down the street, it was running rough like it was not firing on all cylinders. A mile down the road, the problem was gone, it ran fine all the way to work (15 miles).
I went to lunch that afternoon, everything was fine, I stopped at a restaurant, when I was finished I headed back to work, as I was heading back the problem came back. I made it back to work. After work, I headed back home, everything was fine for the first 4 miles, then the problem came back, it was a struggle to keep the car going, however I limped home. Now my car is resting in the garage. Does anybody know what this problem could be ???</strong><hr></blockquote>
Well, I just found out what the problem was. I had a specialist check it out, the #4 cylinder was lacking compression. He pulled off the cam cover and found pieces of a valve spring that had broken. The good news is that the valve did not drop down into the cylinder. I am having the head sent out to a specialist to evaluate the condition of the head, valves, springs, etc. Hopefully the 1 spring breaking was just a fluke. This will still cost me a bit no matter what the outcome is.
#5
Sorry,
for the bad news on your car.
May be it helps to replace only the springs.
In that case the head must not be removed, if you put air into the ignition spark opening to keep the zylinder volume and valves under pressure.
Then you use a tube with the outer diameter of your valve spring and push with a hammer and the tube on top of the valve.
The valve-locks then come out and you can add new spring(s).
for the bad news on your car.
May be it helps to replace only the springs.
In that case the head must not be removed, if you put air into the ignition spark opening to keep the zylinder volume and valves under pressure.
Then you use a tube with the outer diameter of your valve spring and push with a hammer and the tube on top of the valve.
The valve-locks then come out and you can add new spring(s).
#6
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I agree with Wolf. It is definately worth the risk to just replace the spring while the head is still on the car. All you have to do to make up your mind is get a quote to remove the head & replace it with a full complement of gaskets etc.
#7
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[quote]Originally posted by Wolf-Dietmar:
<strong>Sorry,
for the bad news on your car.
May be it helps to replace only the springs.
In that case the head must not be removed, if you put air into the ignition spark opening to keep the zylinder volume and valves under pressure.
Then you use a tube with the outer diameter of your valve spring and push with a hammer and the tube on top of the valve.
The valve-locks then come out and you can add new spring(s).</strong><hr></blockquote>
<strong>Sorry,
for the bad news on your car.
May be it helps to replace only the springs.
In that case the head must not be removed, if you put air into the ignition spark opening to keep the zylinder volume and valves under pressure.
Then you use a tube with the outer diameter of your valve spring and push with a hammer and the tube on top of the valve.
The valve-locks then come out and you can add new spring(s).</strong><hr></blockquote>
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#8
For information, I replaced the valve stem oil seals on my 944 1986 NA. I used a slightly modified Ford Excort(UK) Spring compressor and hence did not remove the head. Also did not use compressed air. I broke the seal of the collets first, then using the spring compressor and a few bits of wood as packing, compressed the springs. Whole job took me about 2 hours. Car now runs clean. Shame I never took picutes but if you want more detailed info just ask....