suspension work plans
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Iowa
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
suspension work plans
In the next month or so, I'm planning on fixing several things on my 91 944S2. From reading FAQs and articles, I think I have the procedures planned somewhat. Then again, I'm open to ideas, hence this post.
Here are the tasks in order:
1. Replace front struts with Koni inserts from Paragon. Paragon mentioned that I might need a strut mounting bracket, but I have no clue how to inspect that, or actually where it's located. At 146,000 miles, should that likely be replaced? Maybe I should have it inspected by a local Porsche specialist.
2. Replace front brake rotors and pads. Pads will be Metal Masters and rotors will be Saebro or Zimmerman OEM.
3. Replace rear shocks with Koni yellows.
4. Replace rear brake pads and probably rotors.
5. Replace one or both sway bars. I'm not sure if I'll do this, it will depend on what new/used sway bars cost, probably. Need to read more about this, but so far it sounds like a good improvement.
6. Adjust ride height to make vehicle level. The space between the top of the rear, left tire and the wheel well top is about an inch higher than that on the rear, right side. I heard that replacing struts might affect this, and that ride height needs to be correct before doing an alignment.
7. Get the vehicle aligned by a local Porsche/tire/suspension shop.
Comments? Does this sound like the correct order of tasks?
While I've got the suspension apart, should I be inspecting anything in particular for this car and mileage?
thanks,
Bryan
Here are the tasks in order:
1. Replace front struts with Koni inserts from Paragon. Paragon mentioned that I might need a strut mounting bracket, but I have no clue how to inspect that, or actually where it's located. At 146,000 miles, should that likely be replaced? Maybe I should have it inspected by a local Porsche specialist.
2. Replace front brake rotors and pads. Pads will be Metal Masters and rotors will be Saebro or Zimmerman OEM.
3. Replace rear shocks with Koni yellows.
4. Replace rear brake pads and probably rotors.
5. Replace one or both sway bars. I'm not sure if I'll do this, it will depend on what new/used sway bars cost, probably. Need to read more about this, but so far it sounds like a good improvement.
6. Adjust ride height to make vehicle level. The space between the top of the rear, left tire and the wheel well top is about an inch higher than that on the rear, right side. I heard that replacing struts might affect this, and that ride height needs to be correct before doing an alignment.
7. Get the vehicle aligned by a local Porsche/tire/suspension shop.
Comments? Does this sound like the correct order of tasks?
While I've got the suspension apart, should I be inspecting anything in particular for this car and mileage?
thanks,
Bryan
#2
Bryan, the ride height on these acrs can be adjusted very easily. Go to this wbsite to get a procedure: http://boerger.golden-tech.com/. I would first replace the rear shocks before doing this just in case the offset was due to dead shocks.
#3
The procedure for adjusting your rear ride height id here:http://boerger.golden-tech.com/ I would first replace the rear shocks before doing it since the offset might be due to dead shocks.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Iowa
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone know how to inspect the strut mounting bracket (strut brace?) to see if it needs replacement? Is this like a water pump where you replace it after an amount of time to be sure it doesn't break?
thanks,
Bryan
thanks,
Bryan
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Virtually Everywhere...
Posts: 4,820
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Bryan, the upper strut mount has bearings and rubber than can fail over time and use. The rubber is a vibration damper, but is also vulcanized to the other parts... if this breaks down or breaks free, you will have unwanted movement of the strut top mount... causing all sorts of problems from alignment changes under load to clanking and clunking. The bearing in there is also subject to wear and tear. The easiest way to check health is out of the car with the spring removed... grab the strut shaft and shake vigorously. That said, given your mileage I would certainly suggest replacement... relatively inexpensive to do while "in there" and you won't need an extra alignment if these go in the future. An alternative to the original strut mounts are spherical bushing camber plates... like these:
Also, your list of mods seems pretty complete... Not knowing more about the current condition of your car, I would certainly have a thorough look at the A-arm ball joints.
Good Luck!
Also, your list of mods seems pretty complete... Not knowing more about the current condition of your car, I would certainly have a thorough look at the A-arm ball joints.
Good Luck!
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Virtually Everywhere...
Posts: 4,820
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Advantage: crisper/quicker turn-in, more responsive road feel/feedback, quickly/accurately change camber to suit, high quality billet and monoball construction.
Disadvantage: costs more than OE replacement bushing kit, transmits more vibration to the chassis.
This mod is meant for folks who are tracking or autocrossing their cars. The instant and accurate camber adjustments can go a long way to reducing lap times. Normally used in conjunction with a tire pyrometer (check for tire temp differential) and good tire pressure knowledge, but can certainly be adjusted by seat-of-the-pants feel.
Disadvantage: costs more than OE replacement bushing kit, transmits more vibration to the chassis.
This mod is meant for folks who are tracking or autocrossing their cars. The instant and accurate camber adjustments can go a long way to reducing lap times. Normally used in conjunction with a tire pyrometer (check for tire temp differential) and good tire pressure knowledge, but can certainly be adjusted by seat-of-the-pants feel.