Easiest way to reseal transmission casing.
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Easiest way to reseal transmission casing.
My 62K miles transmission has developed a leak where the diff housing is connected to the gear carrier. This happened after I filled it with synthetic gear oil.
There is no gasket for this join. It is sealed with a sealing compound called wv d3 which I cannot find anywhere. I currently have my engine suspended as I'm fixing the oil pan gasket leak. I'm thinking this might be a good time to fix the transmission leak as well, as I can shift the engine forward to create more space.
I have a couple of questions on how to fix this:
There is no gasket for this join. It is sealed with a sealing compound called wv d3 which I cannot find anywhere. I currently have my engine suspended as I'm fixing the oil pan gasket leak. I'm thinking this might be a good time to fix the transmission leak as well, as I can shift the engine forward to create more space.
I have a couple of questions on how to fix this:
- Could the transmission be lowered enough from the car to reseal this join, or will it have to be removed from the car?
- Is it fairly simple to split the box at this join, or would you say I should rebuild the transmission(i have some quite noticeable rattling/clunking when idling in neutral)?
- How long time would you calculate to remove the tranny (I only have jack stands)?
- Which sealing compound would you recommend? I was thinking maybe Loctite 518 would be good. Or perhaps Loctite 510?
#2
Burning Brakes
Can't really answer your question; But instead have my own question for you....
Did your tranny rattle get worse (or start) after you switched to synthetic oil? I used Mobil 1 and feel like my rattle started after that...
Did your tranny rattle get worse (or start) after you switched to synthetic oil? I used Mobil 1 and feel like my rattle started after that...
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I could not tell you to be honest. I have scarcely been able to drive my car since I bought it and I changed oil straight away back then, but I do not remember any rattling when I was test-driving the car.
#4
Advanced
Hi there
I recently had my gearbox out of the car so I don't know if it can be done with the box in place. Took about 2 hours to remove the gearbox.
I used Loctite 574 (between the aluminium housing and the cast iron housing.
I recently had my gearbox out of the car so I don't know if it can be done with the box in place. Took about 2 hours to remove the gearbox.
I used Loctite 574 (between the aluminium housing and the cast iron housing.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks.
I'll get to it if I ever succeed in seating the oil pa(i)n gasket properly.
Did you remove anything else but the transmission? My engine is currently suspended from above due to the oil pan work. It seems like it has slid back, because the gear box is flush against the spare wheel well. Will it simplify things (will I save some time) if I can slide the engine forward?
I'll get to it if I ever succeed in seating the oil pa(i)n gasket properly.
Did you remove anything else but the transmission? My engine is currently suspended from above due to the oil pan work. It seems like it has slid back, because the gear box is flush against the spare wheel well. Will it simplify things (will I save some time) if I can slide the engine forward?