G50

Checking out a 90'S2 Cab. any tips in what to look for? TB has been changed and car seems to run fine.

I never have driven the 16v version of the 944. I had a 87' 951 and a n/a 87' so I don't know how much deference it is between the 8v and 16v. Just noticed that the 16v S2 revs and sounds like the 8v. What part of the powerband does the 16v start to really show itself?

adrian_jaye

its been discussed a lot do a search,
but in short and in no order

1> get a Porsche mechanic / shop to look it over
2> make sure you have valid recipts
3> check the log book with the dealers to prrove it "Has" been services
4> OEM servicing, should give better g'tee of work
5> belts
6> good top (about £600 for top alone)
7> any rust, run for the hills
8> get the best example you can get
9> no such thing as a cheap Porsche
10> driving, listen for noises
11> if clutch pedal is stiff, or gearshift vibrates, asseme new clutch is around the corner
12> the sweet spot is around 3K, it should kick in from ther
13> when driving take it up through all the rev range
14> difference between 8v and 16v, difference between lean meat and a "porterhouse steak"

I think thats it,

check out my site as well, details in sig

Melchior

As for the cabriolets, you want to check the fabric top for its condition: does it look fadded, is the stitching missing from the ribs going across the top of the roof, is the back plastic window leaking (cracks or yellowing). Also check the power top motors top see if they work well. They should make some noise when raising and lowering the top but no grinding or straining. An expensive replacement is the two-piece rubber/fabric window seal that keeps the top of the window sealed to the convertible top. A lot of times the fabric tends to start to tare off making for a lot of wind noise in the vehicle while driving. They cost about $250 each but I am in the process right now of getting mine re-covered with fabric. Lastly, check the condition of the tonneau cover (if the PO still has it) and see if it still fits over the retracted roof.
As for the 16V engine, it should provide better low-end torque than the Turbo and have a smooth power band from idle.

jim944s2

I owned a stock '86 951 for about 5 years (yellow konis, lsd), and currently have an '89 944S2 (also stock, more M030 all the time) -both properly aligned for autox/track. My primary interests for the cars are light duty DE and stock category autoX I've driven at multiple lapping events and numerous auto-xs, side by side w/ several friends w/ S2s and 951s, so I should have a somewhat qualified opinion! On the street, the S2 gearing makes it a bit nicer in the stop&go. The non-S 951 and S2 are virtually identical on a slightly short RR track, I would just give the nod to the 951 on a more open track. Even though the 951 feels much faster to me, the S2 is right there. The S2 is a much better auto-xer, -probably an avg of 2 seconds faster on a 60 sec course. Obviously the 951 is better suited for modifications. I'm guessing that the S2s torque comes on just a bit lower rpm than a 951 (2400rpm?) due to the displacement, the real advantage of the S2 is the 'snap' (lack of turbo lag, -not getting bogged down in a slow corner).

G50

Thanks guys for the useful insights. I just haven't had the experience of the 16v's and now I have a better understanding.

As for the top and everything else the car looks well kept and all service that was done to it looks proper. Except for that key failure with the plastic ? guide rail? There are no records of that being changed.

The owner just states that whenever he brought it to the shop the car gets whatever it needs but I haven't seen the plastic guide rail being replaced and documented in any of the records. Only the usual TB etc...has been routinely serviced.

Critical?

craig001

You didn't mention the milage. So in addition to the timing belt and water pump you may need to think about the cam chain tensioner. If it's a low milage car you may still need to think about all the belts and hoses. After all, they are going on 14 years old.

What plastic rail are you refering to?

Or you could check out mine if you want a red/black/black one and are near Saint Louis. I am moving to a 911 and need to move this or it's being used as a trade.

G50

Ah that's it the cam tensioner. Sorry but I'm located in Hawaii. The s2 has 110k and being sold for $6,800.

adrian_jaye

yes and no,
the plastic rail, or

"Camshaft chain tensioner" I believe it is called, sits in between the two cams, and there is a belt which which passes over it.

This part was never part of the service schedule so, even if properly OEM maintained, would never have been changed. If it goes, I suppose it can damage stuff.

It is an easy job to do, you can do one of two things

1) change the top pad (the part is not in the 944 PET - Porsche prolly wont even know where to look, its under the 928 section, where it is listed, its only about 10 bucks ?) about 1 job

2) change the whole tensioner, there is a top AND a bottom pad, the whole tensioner is a couple of hundered bucks ! and is listed.

I changed the top pad recently as a precaution, next interval I'll change the whole tensioner out as well.

HTH

G50

thank you for the valuable info.

adrian_jaye

no probs always a pleasure

cmyers33

I paid $8500 for a 90 S2 Cab in good shape with 105K miles in the DC area, so your price seems low (isn't everything in Hawaii $$$). I had the Porsche dealer do a presale inspection and it cost $100 (one hour labor). They did not do a compression check that I in hindsight think they should have done. Car runs great. PO did all the belts, water pump and the front seal but now the balance shaft seal(s) are leaking! The roof and dash top had been replaced and the door panels upgraded with the six speaker system. The PO disconnected the electric top, said it was too slow. I also couldn't find a record of cam chain tensioner being replaced so I'm going to do that next. The tensioner cost me @250 bucks.

The presale inspection is important! Know what you are getting into.

adrian_jaye

AGREED !

I would always advocate taking to a dealer, they can also run the VIN number and do checkes for other major work (well Porche GB do anyway!)

comnpression check is not part of the "recommended" 74 point POrsche approved check, a speacilst may do this, bonus if they do !

electric top too slow, hmmmmm, motor on the way out or lubrication ????

cam tensh, that sounds about right !