Down Shifting problem in 84 944
02-28-2019, 04:06 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Down Shifting problem in 84 944
My 84 944 NA is giving me a bit of trouble downshifting. 5 speed manual transmission. I almost never have trouble up shifting 1-5. Whenever I'm down shifting from 5-4, or from 4-3 I almost always have trouble. If I'm trying to go from 4-3, and it doesn't want to go in, I can move it toward 2nd, not put it in 2nd, just hear the synchro spin up, and then I can easily get it into 3rd. I don't really know much about the transmission. I did change the shift lever at the center console about 6 months ago, but that didn't change anything as it was doing it before I changed it as well. Any suggestions will be appreciated as I'm getting really tired of 2 second down shifts from 4-3. Thank you.
03-01-2019, 09:21 AM
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Dan, thanks for your note. I've measured the space at the inspection window via Clarks Garage and get 20.mm.., but this method doesn't check clutch travel and doesn't involve a helper. If there is another way to inspect the clutch, I would love to know about it.
As an additional note, the master and slave reservoir have recently been changed, and that made no difference in this problem.
I'm thinking that my next move is to replace the shift rod at the transaxle.
As an additional note, the master and slave reservoir have recently been changed, and that made no difference in this problem.
I'm thinking that my next move is to replace the shift rod at the transaxle.
03-01-2019, 10:06 AM
#4
Drifting
Since the Master cylinder has been replaced, I'd recommend you check pedal free play. It should feel similar to the brake pedal. See this quick video:
The best illustration of checking clutch travel that I can find begins at 15:49 in this video:
The best illustration of checking clutch travel that I can find begins at 15:49 in this video:
03-01-2019, 03:49 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the videos.
I measure about 18-20 mm when I do the two finger test as shown in the video, and I'm getting pretty stiff resistance for my 2 fingers at that point.
I measure the throw of the clutch pedal at approx 5 inches from full down to full up. When the car is in gear and I start letting the clutch pedal up, the pedal travel
is about 3 inches before the clutch starts engaging and engages pretty quickly at that point.
I hope this info can help in someway.
Thanks again!!
I measure about 18-20 mm when I do the two finger test as shown in the video, and I'm getting pretty stiff resistance for my 2 fingers at that point.
I measure the throw of the clutch pedal at approx 5 inches from full down to full up. When the car is in gear and I start letting the clutch pedal up, the pedal travel
is about 3 inches before the clutch starts engaging and engages pretty quickly at that point.
I hope this info can help in someway.
Thanks again!!
03-01-2019, 04:25 PM
#6
Drifting
At the pedal, what's most important (and the only thing that can be measured) is the "free-play": by spec, it is to be 3mm.
This is roughly equivilant to the "tap tap" in the video--the same as the brake pedal. It's the travel that is completely loose.
Any other travel after that cannot be measured at the pedal. After the loose tap, there begins a little more resistance (the 18-20mm you mention) then significantly more resistance. These two are the action of the spring attached to the pedal.
Make sure you have the 3mm loose "tapping" just like brake pedal.
If you don't, you need to make it happen by adjusting the master cylinder rod.
If you do, and your clutch fork end moves enough in the bellhousing inspection hole, you've got other issues
This is roughly equivilant to the "tap tap" in the video--the same as the brake pedal. It's the travel that is completely loose.
Any other travel after that cannot be measured at the pedal. After the loose tap, there begins a little more resistance (the 18-20mm you mention) then significantly more resistance. These two are the action of the spring attached to the pedal.
Make sure you have the 3mm loose "tapping" just like brake pedal.
If you don't, you need to make it happen by adjusting the master cylinder rod.
If you do, and your clutch fork end moves enough in the bellhousing inspection hole, you've got other issues
03-03-2019, 04:15 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks again Dan, I'm waiting till it warms up a bit to continue with this as it is not my DD. I'll definitely be inspecting those points as soon as I get a chance.
Cheers!
Cheers!