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That’s why i posted the results to both tests. When my meter was set to continuity, not once did I get tone. I didn’t get any readings at all either. The meter just read OL. If this test method was infact the correct one then yes, the temp sensor is bad.
When I set it to Kohms that’s when I saw numbers changing based on temperature. This test was done based on Clark’s garage. For different temp ranges there should be different ohms readings. The greater the temperature, the smaller the resistance. If this was the correct test, then the coolant temp sensor is in fact working.
Dan unfortunately I don’t think I have my old coolant temp sensor. They are only 20$ if need be I can run to the store and pick one up today. I just wanna make sure mine is bad before I replace it.
Dan how can I jump out the ICV????
Is there a way to test the icv? If it’s a open/ close switch, can’t I just plug it into the battery and see if it clicks?
I still have yet to find a donor ECU. Anybody wanna VEMS or microsquirt my car for me for free? Hahahaha.
Oh man I think I'm all confused... I've been soldering electronics all day and the fumes have left me dizzy!
I'm no longer sure who is suggesting what, but if your coolant sensor changes resistance with temperature, I would say it's fine.
Does your car have the diagnostic port (see pic below)? If so, you can disconnect the ICV (as you should when setting idle speed) by bridging terminals B & C
Oh man I think I'm all confused... I've been soldering electronics all day and the fumes have left me dizzy!
I'm no longer sure who is suggesting what, but if your coolant sensor changes resistance with temperature, I would say it's fine.
Does your car have the diagnostic port (see pic below)? If so, you can disconnect the ICV (as you should when setting idle speed) by bridging terminals B & C
I wish I had that port. Unfortunately I don’t. I believe those are on the later cars only.
In post 145, don't you suggest that the head coolant sensor is a switch and testing is via continuity?
yes i I was thinking of another Bosch system but the principle is exactly the same .
The engine temperature sensor is what the ECU uses to control the auxillary air supply during cold starts .
As I have been saying all along for over a week now . This sensor is the most important sensor that the ECU uses . If it is not working correctly the engine will start and run rich at idle when cold .
Refer to the Porsche workshop manual and test the sensor as described .Alternatively for the sake of a few measly dollars buy a new sensor
In post 145, don't you suggest that the head coolant sensor is a switch and testing is via continuity?
Dan I give up .!
I can no longer fight both Jacob and you. jacob ignores pretty much everything I suggest ( he couldn't even fit 3x bloody wires together correctly ) and you question everything I suggest !????
From now on I'll let you diagnose and solve Jacobs issue.......... then you can take all the credit as well .
If it is not working correctly the engine will start and run rich at idle when cold .
Unfortunately, from the pictures posted above, it looks like it's probably fine (tests in glasses of water). The readings are a little off those suggested by the scanned chart from Spidey944 but that could be the temp scanner. I'd say the coolant sensor is reacting properly
My gut feeling is AFM or DME, both of which have been replaced already. But, I agree might as well continue ruling out easy stuff for now.
This is a pic of the underside of the fuse box. I'm not sure if Jacob's car has a similar setup, but looks pretty easy to lift off and check for loose or shorting wires under there (picture & comments in picture from a post by 944Time on a recent thread)
I can no longer fight both Jacob and you. jacob ignores pretty much everything I suggest ( he couldn't even fit 3x bloody wires together correctly ) and you question everything I suggest !????
From now on I'll let you diagnose and solve Jacobs issue.......... then you can take all the credit as well .
Good luck you'll need it ..
Hey man no fighting here (?) I was just confused about your temp sensor "switch" suggestion and wondering if perhaps it was in error
I am hardly qualified in diagnosing Jacob's issue; I can only offer what I've learned from my limited experience but you never know when a tip can lead to a solution
My understanding is you have far more tips to offer than I!
Yeah I’m not sure who’s fighting with you either. I did both things you asked as soon as I was able to.
3 wire bypass starts the car and doesn’t run it same as the relay.
Coolant temp sensor is working fine.
Ill admit my mistakes openly so that others following this thread know not to make them. I’ve done every single test you’ve asked me to do. If I was seriously that arrogant then there would be no point to even starting a thread.
Every single thing I tested and replaced was at the suggestion of the dealership, the specialty shop, and those on the two threads I’ve started.
The first one with over 8,000 views and no answers. No ones “fighting you”
If you feel that way well then I’m sorry but I can’t change how you feel about my cars issues.
Thanks for the luck but I’d rather have an answer lol.
Getting back on track, I found a way to pretty much eliminate the coolant sensor as my issue. I shorted the terminals on the harness together to trick the car into thinking it’s warm. What this does is lean out the mixture. Car just cranked didn’t start. Remove the jumper and the car starts.
I forget: have you tested for vacuum leak already? That brake booster hissing or whatever you heard there might be worth checking.
If you have a vacuum gauge (or handheld fuel pressure gauge--they usually show vacuum too), next time you get it idling, tee off a vacuum line and see what you get.
03-10-2019, 01:53 PM
