New 944 owners - oil in coolant? Clutch pedal down
#1
New 944 owners - oil in coolant? Clutch pedal down
Hey all, new non-running 944 owner here. Long story short my neighbor can no longer drive his 944 so I bought it for pretty cheap. I know he babied it, all maintenance done, garage kept, mint body and chassis, but it sat for the last 2-3 years, so that's where I'm at. It sat due to his health issues and not because of the car's mechanical issues.
I started the process of getting it back up and running today. Battery for starters, but my two main concerns are the clutch pedal is on the floor, it springs back up when manually pulled, but any pressure it drops to the floor. Master cyl has fluid, no leaks that I can see under the dash and by the pedal. Going to check slave tomorrow and try to bleed it.
Bigger concern is in the coolant resevoir there was some brown/cloudiness on top of the antifreeze. I managed to pull the (what I assume is oil) off the top and took a picture. The antifreeze under the film looks fine, and I'll do a flush and hope that corrects it....hoping this is not something to worry about. The oil itself looks fine. Keep in mind this picture I targeted trying to pull the brown stuff out, so it looks like there is more than what is actually in the system.
I started the process of getting it back up and running today. Battery for starters, but my two main concerns are the clutch pedal is on the floor, it springs back up when manually pulled, but any pressure it drops to the floor. Master cyl has fluid, no leaks that I can see under the dash and by the pedal. Going to check slave tomorrow and try to bleed it.
Bigger concern is in the coolant resevoir there was some brown/cloudiness on top of the antifreeze. I managed to pull the (what I assume is oil) off the top and took a picture. The antifreeze under the film looks fine, and I'll do a flush and hope that corrects it....hoping this is not something to worry about. The oil itself looks fine. Keep in mind this picture I targeted trying to pull the brown stuff out, so it looks like there is more than what is actually in the system.
#2
Rennlist Member
Clutch works off of brake fluid resivoir, check it first. You will need to bleed if empty (underneath car is bleed nipple)
For water I think others need address. It may be that way from sitting (best situation ) or oil cooler seal bad (not as good) Check dipstick and see what oil looks like there if brown then some thought needs be done where to go next. (rebuild)
For water I think others need address. It may be that way from sitting (best situation ) or oil cooler seal bad (not as good) Check dipstick and see what oil looks like there if brown then some thought needs be done where to go next. (rebuild)
#3
Thanks for the reply.
I checked the BMC and fluid was at min but not under. Car was on level ground . Brake pedal pressure has always been good
Oil on dipstick looks good, maybe a thousand miles on it but not milky or light brown. No problem there.
I checked the BMC and fluid was at min but not under. Car was on level ground . Brake pedal pressure has always been good
Oil on dipstick looks good, maybe a thousand miles on it but not milky or light brown. No problem there.
#4
Three Wheelin'
You need a Syringe to force brake fluid from the bottom up on the Clutch, I have had several cars have no pedal after sitting... I just change the Master and Slave. Bleeding manually
( pushing pedal with an assistant opening and closing the bleeder) is a Recipe for learning new swear words..
The oil in the coolant is a classic for bad seals in the heat exchanger, Even if the car was in storage its whole life, The Rubber is 30 years old Im sure there are threads you can look up to see how its done...
( pushing pedal with an assistant opening and closing the bleeder) is a Recipe for learning new swear words..
The oil in the coolant is a classic for bad seals in the heat exchanger, Even if the car was in storage its whole life, The Rubber is 30 years old Im sure there are threads you can look up to see how its done...
#5
You need a Syringe to force brake fluid from the bottom up on the Clutch, I have had several cars have no pedal after sitting... I just change the Master and Slave. Bleeding manually
( pushing pedal with an assistant opening and closing the bleeder) is a Recipe for learning new swear words..
The oil in the coolant is a classic for bad seals in the heat exchanger, Even if the car was in storage its whole life, The Rubber is 30 years old Im sure there are threads you can look up to see how its done...
( pushing pedal with an assistant opening and closing the bleeder) is a Recipe for learning new swear words..
The oil in the coolant is a classic for bad seals in the heat exchanger, Even if the car was in storage its whole life, The Rubber is 30 years old Im sure there are threads you can look up to see how its done...
Heat exchanger or oil cooler seals ? I was going to just go ahead with the order cooler seals while I flush everything anyway , but will look into heat exchanger seals as well
I've never heard of a syringe to push in fluid, is this a specialty tool?
#6
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Hello and welcome to the forum! This is a great community with a ton of useful info. I'm attaching a link to our site's DIY tech articles on the 944 platform. Please let us know if you have any questions!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/944tech_articles.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/944tech_articles.htm
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#7
Three Wheelin'
Heat Exchanger and Oil Cooler in an NA are the same thing. A Syringe is Just like when you get a shot at the Doctor. It has a plunger and you suck fluid in, and the purge the air out. I use just a piece of silicone hose on the end of mine. You force the fluid from the bottom up. Trying to force Air down VIA normal bleeding never works well. Plus There is a small Chamber on the brake master Cyl inside of it that feeds the clutch. Every time the clutch pedal comes up it starves it for fluid and introduces more air.. Bubbles Float UP.... A Syringe Can be purchased at any whine / beer making place for a couple of bucks, the bigger the better >500ml I got mine from a VET, its actually a horse syringe...
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#8
Just a quick bump/follow up.
Since I made the post about oil in the coolant, I haven't had time to get over and wrench on the car, so it's been sitting there, but I did some more research and went ahead and bought new seals for the oil cooler, and that will be the first thing I do (hopefully today or tomorrow).
Before I put this work into the coolant seals, I wanted to put new gas in the car and fire it up just for a second to make sure it starts, and everything sounds good, and then shut it off and do the oil seal change. Based on how much oil is in the coolant, and that there is no visible coolant in the oil, is it safe to do this or should I just take the chance of doing the coolant seals and fire her up after that?
Since I made the post about oil in the coolant, I haven't had time to get over and wrench on the car, so it's been sitting there, but I did some more research and went ahead and bought new seals for the oil cooler, and that will be the first thing I do (hopefully today or tomorrow).
Before I put this work into the coolant seals, I wanted to put new gas in the car and fire it up just for a second to make sure it starts, and everything sounds good, and then shut it off and do the oil seal change. Based on how much oil is in the coolant, and that there is no visible coolant in the oil, is it safe to do this or should I just take the chance of doing the coolant seals and fire her up after that?
#9
You have air in your lines somewhere. Invest in a motive power bleeder. You'll use it again. Bleed the clutch system with it--if it keeps sticking down again then you probably have a leaky cylinder. Without knowing exactly which, replace both master and slave.