1988 944 Automatic Transmission Gasket set
#1
1988 944 Automatic Transmission Gasket set
Hi all! I've been looking for a gasket set for my 1988 Porsche 944 N/A automatic transmission. I've been unsuccessful in doing so. I'm NOT looking for the oil pan gasket. I'm looking for all the rest of them. I've found gasket sets for manual transmissions, but none for automatics. Does anyone know where I can find a gasket set? Or will a manual set work? Thanks in advance!
#2
Race Car
Hi all! I've been looking for a gasket set for my 1988 Porsche 944 N/A automatic transmission. I've been unsuccessful in doing so. I'm NOT looking for the oil pan gasket. I'm looking for all the rest of them. I've found gasket sets for manual transmissions, but none for automatics. Does anyone know where I can find a gasket set? Or will a manual set work? Thanks in advance!
Are you trying to fix external leaks or do you need to open the transmission to service an internal part like the pump, etc..?
Either way, gasket/seal kit for auto, otherwise known as an "overhaul kit" (without clutches) will include clutch piston lips seals and other items you will not need if just trying to repair external leaks.
Manufacturers - Precision International and Transtec should both have them.
Post back if you are stumped, I do several automatics of all makes every month and have a semi local supplier that can get one.
T
#3
Race Car
Here's an online place I use sometimes (rarely) when my local guys get stuck and can't supply me with something.
As you can see, the kit you need is listed as 'Transtec' (65002B)
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/VW-010.html
Depending where you are (they have several store/warehouses), I also use Transtar in New Orleans. They will have what you need to but it's not a business day where I could call them for you and the online search requires a sign up.
T
As you can see, the kit you need is listed as 'Transtec' (65002B)
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/VW-010.html
Depending where you are (they have several store/warehouses), I also use Transtar in New Orleans. They will have what you need to but it's not a business day where I could call them for you and the online search requires a sign up.
T
#4
No, you will need a gasket/seal kit for an automatic, manual will not work.
Are you trying to fix external leaks or do you need to open the transmission to service an internal part like the pump, etc..?
Either way, gasket/seal kit for auto, otherwise known as an "overhaul kit" (without clutches) will include clutch piston lips seals and other items you will not need if just trying to repair external leaks.
Manufacturers - Precision International and Transtec should both have them.
Post back if you are stumped, I do several automatics of all makes every month and have a semi local supplier that can get one.
T
Are you trying to fix external leaks or do you need to open the transmission to service an internal part like the pump, etc..?
Either way, gasket/seal kit for auto, otherwise known as an "overhaul kit" (without clutches) will include clutch piston lips seals and other items you will not need if just trying to repair external leaks.
Manufacturers - Precision International and Transtec should both have them.
Post back if you are stumped, I do several automatics of all makes every month and have a semi local supplier that can get one.
T
#5
Race Car
I had a leak, so I paid a guy to replace the seals. He got it back to me and it still leaks. I should've never taken it to him.. So i took the transmission out and opened it up. I noticed there was no gasket. And it also looks like he didn't get the seals in very well.. He tried to tell me the thing was cracked. But the is no Crack anywhere. So what exactly do I need?
What do you mean "opened it up"....?
Where....., which part...?
Post up some pics.
Do you see the pdf at the link I sent....?
What's the number by the gasket or o'ring you need...?
T
#6
Uhm, well, I'm pretty well rounded in the skills department but I'm not a mind reader....
What do you mean "opened it up"....?
Where....., which part...?
Post up some pics.
Do you see the pdf at the link I sent....?
What's the number by the gasket or o'ring you need...?
T
What do you mean "opened it up"....?
Where....., which part...?
Post up some pics.
Do you see the pdf at the link I sent....?
What's the number by the gasket or o'ring you need...?
T
I know my transmission is leaking from this part.. Could it be that the mechanic put the seals in incorrectly??
#7
Race Car
In the event that you did take care in making a proper diagnosis,
1) if the bushings are worn past tolerance (#ed parts next to reactor), more oil could be bypassing than the drainback (hole between bushing and seal) can handle. This will generally push the seal out though.
2)the seal could be not driven in to correct depth, partially or fully covering drain back.
3) the garter spring that keeps the seal lip in contact with the converter hub may be damaged or missing.
4) I'd have to check the manual, but the machine fit between the reactor and the (#763) may require sealant that your tech did not use.
T
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#9
Race Car
Yeah, I had to check. Manual says - "Coat sealing surface with D 3 sealer".
That'd be VW/Audi, the equivalent will be Loctite 574 orange flange sealant or the 573 green anaerobic.
You probably will need to stand the transmission up vertical 1) so surfaces will remain dry, free from oil after you clean them while you work, 2)to not displace any moving parts in the horizontal position.
Clean all surfaces with brake clean and apply with velour roller or small acid brush found in plumbing section of hardware store.
T
That'd be VW/Audi, the equivalent will be Loctite 574 orange flange sealant or the 573 green anaerobic.
You probably will need to stand the transmission up vertical 1) so surfaces will remain dry, free from oil after you clean them while you work, 2)to not displace any moving parts in the horizontal position.
Clean all surfaces with brake clean and apply with velour roller or small acid brush found in plumbing section of hardware store.
T
#10
Are you absolutely certain....? Have you cleaned it and run the car to verify for sure. Reason being, with a wet (even drained converter), this area is prone to misdiagnosis because when you go to install the wet converter, oil can spill out into the bell housing.
In the event that you did take care in making a proper diagnosis,
1) if the bushings are worn past tolerance (#ed parts next to reactor), more oil could be bypassing than the drainback (hole between bushing and seal) can handle. This will generally push the seal out though.
2)the seal could be not driven in to correct depth, partially or fully covering drain back.
3) the garter spring that keeps the seal lip in contact with the converter hub may be damaged or missing.
4) I'd have to check the manual, but the machine fit between the reactor and the (#763) may require sealant that your tech did not use.
T
In the event that you did take care in making a proper diagnosis,
1) if the bushings are worn past tolerance (#ed parts next to reactor), more oil could be bypassing than the drainback (hole between bushing and seal) can handle. This will generally push the seal out though.
2)the seal could be not driven in to correct depth, partially or fully covering drain back.
3) the garter spring that keeps the seal lip in contact with the converter hub may be damaged or missing.
4) I'd have to check the manual, but the machine fit between the reactor and the (#763) may require sealant that your tech did not use.
T
I didn't want to admit this... It was a big mistake of mine. But I think it may help in diagnosing. I put ATF Stop Leak in it. And I didn't read the bottle before I did so. I put way too much in it. I believe this is what caused the leak originally, before I took it to the mechanic. I thought this may have expanded the seals, so I got them replaced.
Thanks for your help so far! You have helped a lot already! I hope this new information will help you pinpoint the problem.
#11
Yeah, I had to check. Manual says - "Coat sealing surface with D 3 sealer".
That'd be VW/Audi, the equivalent will be Loctite 574 orange flange sealant or the 573 green anaerobic.
You probably will need to stand the transmission up vertical 1) so surfaces will remain dry, free from oil after you clean them while you work, 2)to not displace any moving parts in the horizontal position.
Clean all surfaces with brake clean and apply with velour roller or small acid brush found in plumbing section of hardware store.
T
That'd be VW/Audi, the equivalent will be Loctite 574 orange flange sealant or the 573 green anaerobic.
You probably will need to stand the transmission up vertical 1) so surfaces will remain dry, free from oil after you clean them while you work, 2)to not displace any moving parts in the horizontal position.
Clean all surfaces with brake clean and apply with velour roller or small acid brush found in plumbing section of hardware store.
T
#12
Race Car
I'm 100% certain that it is leaking there. And pretty heavily at that. It's not like it was just a small amount. I could watch it almost drain. And that is after I drove it home from the mechanic. It was leaking while driving, and after I parked it, it continued to leak.
I didn't want to admit this... It was a big mistake of mine. But I think it may help in diagnosing. I put ATF Stop Leak in it. And I didn't read the bottle before I did so. I put way too much in it. I believe this is what caused the leak originally, before I took it to the mechanic. I thought this may have expanded the seals, so I got them replaced.
Thanks for your help so far! You have helped a lot already! I hope this new information will help you pinpoint the problem.
I didn't want to admit this... It was a big mistake of mine. But I think it may help in diagnosing. I put ATF Stop Leak in it. And I didn't read the bottle before I did so. I put way too much in it. I believe this is what caused the leak originally, before I took it to the mechanic. I thought this may have expanded the seals, so I got them replaced.
Thanks for your help so far! You have helped a lot already! I hope this new information will help you pinpoint the problem.
That stop leak stuff works (in theory) by softening and swelling the rubber lip of the front and axle seals. Trouble is, other internal rubber components will be affected too. The clutches are activated by rubber molded and rubber lip sealed pistons that apply the fwd, direct and intermediate clutch packs.
Get it out of there asap.
T
#13
Race Car
He just didn't see a gasket and thought nothing went there.
If the parts are machined to very fine tolerance, most of the sealant squeezes out, except a thin film and being that it's anaerobic, any amount that is outside the flange (where oxygen is present), it never cures so it will just wipe/wash away. If he cleaned the parts, he may have thought it was grease or grime.
T
#14
Rennlist Member
Porsche's part number for an automatic transmission gasket kit is 477-398-001. Unfortunately it does not appear to be available from Porsche, which means you'll have to buy its components individually. The part diagram lists out the component parts in illustration 398-00R, which is page 165 in the PDF version I have on my PC; you can download the diagram from porsche.com. I'm not going to take the time to check all the components for you, it's a longish list! But for example http://www.porscheatlantaperimeterpa...Term=477398001 lists a bunch of them as available.
Let me know if you get stuck. Radial oil seals, o-rings, and crush washers are usually available as generic parts in the aftermarket. If you get stuck with a shaped paper gasket, I can make one for you from Flexoid stock, something I am doing for the manual transmission's oil pump gaskets.
Lots of good advice from previous replies. Good luck!
Let me know if you get stuck. Radial oil seals, o-rings, and crush washers are usually available as generic parts in the aftermarket. If you get stuck with a shaped paper gasket, I can make one for you from Flexoid stock, something I am doing for the manual transmission's oil pump gaskets.
Lots of good advice from previous replies. Good luck!