Go Back  Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums > DIYs and "How To" Archive > 928
Reload this Page >

Another S4 chain tensioner pad R&R for posterity

Notices

Another S4 chain tensioner pad R&R for posterity

 
 
Old 10-12-2010, 04:38 PM
  #31  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 13,646
Default

I had meant to respond when you asked about the washers that I didn't think there were any, and now I'm sure there aren't.
Rob Edwards is offline  
Old 10-12-2010, 08:15 PM
  #32  
worf928
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
worf928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New England
Posts: 12,012
Default

Originally Posted by Rob Edwards View Post
I had meant to respond when you asked about the washers that I didn't think there were any, and now I'm sure there aren't.
+1. No washers - at least for 87+.
worf928 is online now  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:40 PM
  #33  
Kevin in Atlanta
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 5,090
Default

I am working the driver side and am having a problem getting the tensioner out. It seems to be hung up on the grooves in the pad below. Any suggestions for compressing the lower pad? And once the I have it compressed, it simply comes out as a single piece?
Kevin in Atlanta is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:52 PM
  #34  
Lizard928
Super User
 
Lizard928's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Abbotsford B.C.
Posts: 9,510
Default

Just squeeze with your hand, it will take a lot of force but you can squeeze it down and then pull it out.
Lizard928 is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 06:53 PM
  #35  
Hilton
Super User
 
Hilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
Posts: 6,097
Default

The two pads compress together and it the tensioner comes out as a single piece. The spring in the early 32V version makes it hard to push together (the later style piston is purely hydraulic - no spring), but its doable.

From memory I used some needle-nose vise grips to hold it compressed - but first make sure the cam lobes are protected (e.g. couple of layers of cotton towels or similar) in case you slip.
Hilton is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:00 PM
  #36  
Kevin in Atlanta
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 5,090
Default

So, the short end of the 's' pipe on the left side attaches to the tensioner, right?
Kevin in Atlanta is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:08 PM
  #37  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 13,646
Default

By left I assume you mean 5-8 cylinder bank? Here's a shot of the chain tensioner on the driver's (U.S.) side in Hebert's engine:

Rob Edwards is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:49 PM
  #38  
Kevin in Atlanta
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 5,090
Default

Sorry i don't know my left from my right. I meant right side aka passengerside.
Kevin in Atlanta is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 09:55 PM
  #39  
sendarius
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
sendarius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 611
Default

OK - I see pictures in this thread showing engines out of the bay with cam covers removed. That makes it easy peezy.
BUT
How do you get to the bottom row of bolts on the cam cover with the engine IN the bay?

Surely it is possible, but I can barely SEE the bolt heads, let alone trying to reach them with any kind of tool.
sendarius is offline  
Old 02-27-2013, 11:18 PM
  #40  
GregBBRD

Rennlist
Basic Site Sponsor

 
GregBBRD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Anaheim
Posts: 9,695
Default

Originally Posted by 86_5Tiburon View Post
So, the short end of the 's' pipe on the left side attaches to the tensioner, right?
Yes, that is correct. The "long side" is necessary for the pipe to "clear" the camshaft. Put the "short" side toward the camshaft and sometimes the cam will hit it and rub a hole into the oil line.
__________________
greg brown




714 879 9072
[email protected]

If the kids keep breaking a crowbar in the sandbox, sometimes it is easier to just give them a stronger crowbar, instead of trying to figure out what they are doing in the sandbox.
GregBBRD is offline  
Old 02-28-2013, 12:44 AM
  #41  
Hilton
Super User
 
Hilton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
Posts: 6,097
Default

Originally Posted by sendarius View Post
How do you get to the bottom row of bolts on the cam cover with the engine IN the bay?
Steve - I use one of the allen bits from one of my sets like the one below - also has XZN bits (flywheel/cam cap). For some locations (e.g. where PS hose is) the short ones work, for others (aft-end ones) I can get away with the longer bits.

The main body of the bits is 10mm - so I use them with a 10mm ratcheting spanner around the main body of the bit.
Attached Images  
Hilton is offline  
Old 02-28-2013, 12:54 AM
  #42  
sendarius
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
sendarius's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 611
Default

Originally Posted by Hilton View Post
Steve - I use one of the allen bits from one of my sets like the one below - also has XZN bits (flywheel/cam cap). For some locations (e.g. where PS hose is) the short ones work, for others (aft-end ones) I can get away with the longer bits.

The main body of the bits is 10mm - so I use them with a 10mm ratcheting spanner around the main body of the bit.
I have a similar set, and the necessary gear-wrenches to drive them.

According to the Prime Minister's bed-buddy, all I need now is a set of asian female proctologist's hands.
sendarius is offline  
Old 02-28-2013, 09:45 PM
  #43  
Kevin in Atlanta
Addict
Rennlist Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 5,090
Default

Passengerside proved more difficult than the driverside. Wrangling the lower banjo bolt into the hole while aligning the crush washer and holding the 's' tube was too much for me. :-) What I did was place the crush washer in place, attach the upper 's' to the tensioner with only the lower bolt holding the tensioner. This way I could place the banjo bolt into place with ease.

Anyway the pads are replaced.
Kevin in Atlanta is offline  
Old 03-04-2015, 09:09 PM
  #44  
Gonz2828
User
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 18
Default

Originally Posted by Rob Edwards View Post



Once in place, I LOOSELY bolted the tensioner down- you want a bit of lateral play so that you can maneuver the S-tube and banjo bolts into place and get them screwed in. Tightening torque is 7 ft lbs for both the banjo bolts and the mounting bolts.
Could you confirm the 7 ft lbs torque spec is correct...? Reason is coz I have gotten same numerical value from different sources but finding inconsistencies in the units of measure Ft.Lbs vs In.Lbs.

I got access to a calibrated low torque wrench that can measured very precisely from 0 to 75 in.Lbs. and determine that 7 ft lbs = 84 in lbs
Attached Images  
Gonz2828 is offline  
Old 03-04-2015, 09:30 PM
  #45  
Rob Edwards
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
 
Rob Edwards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 13,646
Default

Could you confirm the 7 ft lbs torque spec is correct...?
Yep:

Rob Edwards is offline  
 
 


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Another S4 chain tensioner pad R&R for posterity


Contact Us - About Us - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.