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15 minute instrument pod removal update and instrument light bulbs for an OK price

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15 minute instrument pod removal update and instrument light bulbs for an OK price

 
 
Old 04-13-2009, 09:32 AM
  #61  
Gary Knox
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Bill,
I found some of the replacement bulbs at AZ Autohaus website. Might take a look there as well.

Gary Knox
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:30 PM
  #62  
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I paid nearly $6.00 bucks a piece from one of the big three for these bulbs! Glad I only needed five.
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:07 PM
  #63  
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Michel - yeah, I agree the wattage should not be a big deal with these bulbs.

Gary - AZ Autohaus search for instrument bulb for my car comes up with 2721MF8, which is a T2-1/4 rather than T1-1/2.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b...w%7Cb8.3d.html

The glass is different diameter and the base design is B8.3d, different from the B8.4d. Not sure which is correct yet for which socket. It is 1.2W.
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:54 PM
  #64  
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I believe that link for the bulb above is only for the bulb (sans base). On my 91, the buls are soldered to the connectors on the base (not sure if this si the same for other years). Anyway, I ordered a BMW part that had the same specs from Pelican.

1.5W Part # 62-11-1-391-260-M97 @ $1.00 ea.
1.2W Part# 62-13-1-383-311-M97 @ $2.00 ea.

So far they work great.
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:21 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball View Post
Michel:

Would this be the replacement for the blue based (1.2W) bulbs?
2351MFX6
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...754%2F2351MFX6

According to this site, it cross-references with 2473MFX6 you suggest.
http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b...%7Cbx8.4d.html
Bill,

I compared all the measurments of the 2473MFX6 (cross reference to 2351MFX6 1.2W) with an actual 2352MFX6 2W light bulb/socket. They are the same.

Here are some pictures of my pod with all the 1.5W (light green and yellow) replaced with 2W lamps. The blue ones are unchanged.

Hope it helped.

Michel

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1239711492
https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1239711535
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Old 04-14-2009, 09:31 AM
  #66  
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Andrew/Bill,

Yes - I now remember that it was the BMW bulbs that I ordered as well. I took a chance (at that price), based on the pictures, and they turned out to be correct. I also put dimmable LED's from "SuperBrightLEDs.com" for the backlighted instruments. Used the "daylight" model, and they work great.

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Old 04-14-2009, 09:46 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Bill Ball View Post
Success! In post 31 you can see Schocki removed the oil pressure guage competely. On Shocki's advice, I left it in and reflowed the two puddles of solder on the back of the guage. On the green PCB, I reflowed the solder holding the odd-looking connectors through which the posts on the back of the oil pressure guage insert. The board trace from one of the connectors may have had a bit of a break right next to the connector. I bridged that with some solder. Thanks for this thread!
Schocki: Great thread, thanks for the writeup.

Bill, I have an intermittent speedo problem, no reading sometimes. When I tap the pod or push the trip odo reset it comes back to life. Would this be a reflow of solder to a connection or something else?
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Old 04-15-2009, 08:03 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Cosmo Kramer View Post
Schocki: Great thread, thanks for the writeup.

Bill, I have an intermittent speedo problem, no reading sometimes. When I tap the pod or push the trip odo reset it comes back to life. Would this be a reflow of solder to a connection or something else?
Well, since tapping on the pod has an effect, yes, I would pull the pod and speedo and reflow the solder points.
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Old 04-16-2009, 01:51 PM
  #69  
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There may be some confusion generated by reading my earlier posts and some of the various MFX6 part numbers. Suffice it to say for the moment that ALL of the instrument panel bulbs from 89 on, with the exception of the 4 backlight bulbs, use the same T 1.5 (or T 1 1/2) base. The yellow and green base ones, used for LCD backlighting and shift indicators, are all 1.5 watt and the blue ones, used for the warning lights, are 1.2 watt. Here are sources for both, although the base color will not match.
1.5 watt:
http://www.aboveallmotorwerks.com/Pr...1391260_S.aspx

1.2 watt:
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...754%2F2351MFX6

Andrew shows the BMW part numbers above in message 64, ordered from Pelican.

Michel used 2W bulbs and shows the panel appearance above. That should work fine too.
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Old 04-16-2009, 02:39 PM
  #70  
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Michel - are the bulbs here for the LCD in stock colors? - not sure if the look of this is based on camera color artifacts or if you tried to change the color of the LCD display?

I had speculated a long time ago that one could try to use alternate colored bulb covers (I have red, green, yellow & blue + there are more) in the LCD though it seem to have a default amber tint even with white light...?

Yours looks rather interesting...?

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Old 04-16-2009, 09:10 PM
  #71  
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Alan,

The computer display looks purple indeed! It's a camera color distortion. It's rather amber in real.

I can tell for sure that the red colored computer text for warning message comes from clear 1.5w light bulbs covered with some kind of thin red rubber coating (it can be removed and placed back on new clear bulbs). This being said, any other color coating on the bulbs will change the display appearance.

Michel.



Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Michel - are the bulbs here for the LCD in stock colors? - not sure if the look of this is based on camera color artifacts or if you tried to change the color of the LCD display?

I had speculated a long time ago that one could try to use alternate colored bulb covers (I have red, green, yellow & blue + there are more) in the LCD though it seem to have a default amber tint even with white light...?

Yours looks rather interesting...?

Alan
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:02 AM
  #72  
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Great write up and pictures. What do you guys recommend for a complete set of new bulbs? I might as well replace them all when I pull the pod. Should I get them with the bases or as bare bulbs?
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:19 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by Chazz View Post
Great write up and pictures. What do you guys recommend for a complete set of new bulbs? I might as well replace them all when I pull the pod. Should I get them with the bases or as bare bulbs?
Except for the 4 larger backlight bulbs, the bulbs are soldered in to their bases.
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Old 09-19-2009, 03:22 PM
  #74  
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First, thanks Schocki for the great write-up and everyone else for their contributions. It was a big help, as I needed to take the pod apart to clean the grounds and the electrical connections, trying to resolve my erratic digital dash, fuel, speedo, and tach.

Question: when re-assembling, I noticed this connector was not attached to anything. I did not unhook it during the pod removal, at least not intentionally. I don't see what it connects to. Does anyone know?
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Old 09-19-2009, 03:58 PM
  #75  
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It's probably for the reset botton in ROW models? Don't worry about it.
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