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1984 FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND BRAKES PROCEDURE w/PICS

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1984 FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND BRAKES PROCEDURE w/PICS

 
 
Old 02-03-2012, 10:24 AM
  #16  
Dwayne
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Thanks for the comments and feedback all! Also a "Thanks" to Greg (blown 87) and Stan (Mrmerlin) for providing some additional tips/recommendations (most of which I have just incorporated) and have helped to improve the overall quality of this write up. A GREAT community we have here!
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Old 02-03-2012, 03:17 PM
  #17  
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Dwayne - This is (another) excellent writeup. Do you use antiseize on the rotor set-screws? I had to use my dremil to cut cross-hatch marks for the phillips screw driver becuase I screwed up the screw head trying to remove it. If you do use antiseize, I assume it would be the copper based(?)

BTW - I always wondered if you had a helper taking pictures of you doing these. After seeing the pictures of you packing the bearings, I assume you do
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Old 02-03-2012, 03:24 PM
  #18  
Bilal928S4
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I use this impact screwdriver frrom Harbor Freight Tool to take these pesky screws off.
Here's the link:
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-...ase-37530.html
It's item number 37530 for $6.99
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Old 02-03-2012, 04:36 PM
  #19  
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Another great writeup Dwayne! Have you ever tried to throw the races in the freezer prior to installing them? I have found in some cases they just drop into place with little to no assistance needed from an installation tool.
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:38 PM
  #20  
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Thanks Dwayne! Super job! I have an '84 and just picked up a new set of bearings and seals a couple of weeks ago. Your timing could not be better.....
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:18 PM
  #21  
Bertrand Daoust
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Thanks Dwayne for this writeup.
Another fabulous one for all the newby like me!
I may repeat myself but I would not be able to own a 928 without people like you and many others here.

Many thanks again.
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:59 PM
  #22  
Dwayne
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Originally Posted by NoVector View Post
Dwayne - This is (another) excellent writeup. Do you use antiseize on the rotor set-screws? I had to use my dremil to cut cross-hatch marks for the phillips screw driver becuase I screwed up the screw head trying to remove it. If you do use antiseize, I assume it would be the copper based(?)

BTW - I always wondered if you had a helper taking pictures of you doing these. After seeing the pictures of you packing the bearings, I assume you do
I have not been using anti-seize because the torque on the screw is only supposed to be 7 ftlbs and if a screw is stubborn, an impact driver such as the one mentioned above by bilal could be used. There is no need to over-tighten the rotor screws since the wheel lug nuts apply all the force needed to secure the rotor to the hub. The WSM also does not mention or recommend anti-seize on these screws. In my unprofessional opinion, I think a person could use anti-seize on the screws as an added measure of security and I believe the high temp copper type would suffice. My only hesitation would be that if anti-seize were used on such a small screw that is only torqued to 7 ftlbs that over time, vibration may allow the screw to come loose - probably not a problem since the rotor is secured with the wheel lugs.

Great observation on the picture help. Of the literally 1000's of pictures I've taken of my learnings on the 928, they have all been taken by myself without the aid of a helper. When it came to documenting this job, I originally left out the bearing packing procedure because I could find no way to take pictures without some acrobatic insanity involved. After I had finished the job, I decided the bearing packing procedure needed to be in the write up so I got out my old bearings, put on my gloves and asked my wife to take pictures - it was a first!

THANKS for the question!
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:03 PM
  #23  
Dwayne
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Originally Posted by G Man View Post
Another great writeup Dwayne! Have you ever tried to throw the races in the freezer prior to installing them? I have found in some cases they just drop into place with little to no assistance needed from an installation tool.
Hi Jim!
Actually, I do place the races in the freezer and I believe I included this instruction in this write up. You are correct - having a hot hub in combination with frozen races makes installing the races a snap! They really do practically fall into place with little persuasion. THANKS for the question!
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Dwayne View Post
... and asked my wife to take pictures - it was a first!
LOL - I was thinking, "well, he could have used the timer on his camera, but then he'd still have to press the buttons with his greasy fingers..." Again, excellent documentation. I tried all the suggestions on Nichols website to remove the dust caps, the tool you show with the slide hammer beats them all. Thanks again - your writeups AND pictures to supplement the WSMs make all these jobs much easier! Now, if we could just get Roger to give you a set of the window rubber for the outside of the doors to document that installation... / Bruce
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:08 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by NoVector View Post
Now, if we could just get Roger to give you a set of the window rubber for the outside of the doors to document that installation... / Bruce
+1


Love the write-up dwayne, this will really come in handy as will your other write-ups (motor mounts when i work up the courage to do it).

Thanks again for making life easier for all of us!
Jonathan.





P.S. Did you ever install those brake lines you won at last SF?
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