Alan,
Thank you for the write up. I will be doing this soon and post the results. I have a couple of more questions. Where do i get the female pins that goes into the CE? Would a 53 relay work? Are the points marked on the back of the CE panel? Thanks Bilal |
"it seems like a potential repair would be to drill a hole through the extension piece on #4 where the plastic pin was and insert and glue in a stronger (than plastic) metal pin. Not remembering exactly what it looks like, though, I'm not 100% sure that's doable."
That's it! Rebuilt many (too many to remember) that way. |
Alan, Thank you for the write up. I will be doing this soon and post the results. I have a couple of more questions. Where do i get the female pins that goes into the CE? Would a 53 relay work? Are the points marked on the back of the CE panel? Thanks Bilal |
Anybody has the female clips that go into the CE for the relay?
Bilal |
'53 or generic Bosch style SPDT relays will both work. Genuine Bosch or Tyco.
Everything is marked on the front of the panel. send me a PM w/ email and I'll send you some more details on the relays. You can get the stock large relay terminals from Eagle Day or Vehicle Wiring Products (UK) - I got a lot from VWP(UK). I belive Roger (ROG100) also sells them individually. You can also use Ford standard terminals - though they are not such high quality. There are some techniques that are usefiul to know for removing relay sockets & terminals. Alan
Originally Posted by Bilal928S4
(Post 8875176)
Alan,
Thank you for the write up. I will be doing this soon and post the results. I have a couple of more questions. Where do i get the female pins that goes into the CE? Would a 53 relay work? Are the points marked on the back of the CE panel? Thanks Bilal |
My relay is DOA! time for some solder work. Thanks for the great write up here.
http://www.nospoons.com/Porsche/dead-relay.jpg |
Wrapped this up today with the $9 radio shack relay. Bought it at the mall! Nice to see that at least some radio shacks still are true to their origins.
Tips: Remember REMEMBER DO NOTDO NOT crank the heat all the way up on your soldering iron. My board now requires a couple extra jumper wires because I cooked the PCB contacts right off the @$%^@! board. Solder wick or a real vacuum solder tool is your friend. After all the electrical work I do I'm amazed I didn't have one of these 10 years ago. I'm going to add another tricky bit to my install with an extra switch to enable/disable the compressor, but use the stock signals and switching to kick on both fans for those sit-on-rt66-at-100F moments. Or anywhere else I want to flog the crap out of the car and don't car about having the AC load on. |
I'm not sure I'm understanding your reason for the switch... can you explain more?
Alan |
I want to be able to kick both fans on "HIGH" on demand without turning on the AC.
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"Wrapped this up today with the $9 radio shack relay."
Hopefully, you checked the clutch current, as the original relay was destroyed by excessive compressor clutch current, i.e. Much more than the normal current of about 3 amps. |
In the past this car fragged two different compressors, that's what took out the relay. I'm 70% done with complete cleanining and flushing of the entire system.
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