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84 FUEL TANK REMOVAL PROCEDURE w/PICS

 
 
Old 03-20-2011, 08:40 PM
  #16  
evozine
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Default nice detail...

I have a similar condition when I fill up all the way. I think it's the hose, at least I hope that's what it is.. Anyway, your writeup is going into my digital binder in prep for my tank removal and filter replacement....

I am glad you have an 84...

AL
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:44 AM
  #17  
Dwayne
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THANKS everyone for the positive feedback - glad you found the procedure useful - or entertaining!

Stan - THANKS for the tip on the fuel pump line (Part #13). I had not thought about replacing it but I understand what you're saying - great add. THANKS!

Now, back to getting Oregon back together!....
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:20 PM
  #18  
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Fantastic write up Dwayne. I am about to embark on replacing my fuel pumps/filters and there are many great tips here.

Only thing I found missing in the instructions and photos was the prominently positioned and required fire extinguisher that should be kept handy during this procedure. Would hate to see someone lose their 928 or a portion of their garage by not being prepared...

Thanks again for the fine photo documentation and write-up. It almost makes me feel like you're standing there in the garage with me... And with that, I'm positive that I'll be successful on my next new wrenching adventure!
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:17 PM
  #19  
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now how did the fire extinguisher get forgotten. DOH
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:52 PM
  #20  
Tom in Austin
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You might also caution to not overtighten the internal filter (or pump in later cars).

I think the pump (or filter) threads into a metal insert that can break loose from the tank plastic, a very serious problem since it leads to tank replacement ...
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:05 PM
  #21  
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Thanks for the work, Dwayne. The contribution to the community is a star in your crown.

I'm always amazed at the quality of your pictures. Do you have a helper?

Any chance of convincing you to run a JB Weld repair test on the holed tank? (I love to draft other people for work. ;-)
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:44 PM
  #22  
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Another excellent piece from Dwayne! When I did my tank, I replaced the S pipe (pump->filter) - my wrench stocks them as consumables, they are so frequently kinked or bent. I also gave the short return line hose that goes into gauge head a tug to check it, and it slid off the steel pipe as easy as! So I replaced that and secured it with a hose clamp. At the end of the job, as it had been apart for a while, and K-jet can take a while to pump up, I bridged the pump relay to do a leak check (found one up near the front - also replaced engine bay hoses), and left it circulating for several minutes. After that it started first try! I would also remind users to go easy on tightening the in-tank filter - barely more than hand tight, and only tighter if it weeps. I have ruined one tank trying to remove this filter....
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:05 PM
  #23  
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Thanks Dwayne for another amazing write-up!! The detail that you cover in all your procedures is amazing and certainly leads to a LOT of peace of mind when I attempt to do the same thing to my own car!!
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Old 03-29-2011, 01:07 AM
  #24  
Dwayne
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Thanks for the comments and additions, guys! Let me know if you find any inaccuracies in the write up while you may be using it and I'll get it corrected. THANKS!
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:39 PM
  #25  
abecker
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Dwayne - I have an '86 automatic. When I fill it all the way, I smell fuel. It seems to take only about 17 gallons of fuel. When I put in around 13 gallons, I don't smell any fuel at all. I ordered an oil ring for the sender hoping that was the problem and have not looked at the old one yet. But, I see your excellent post and worry my tank is also cracked. Any suggestions? Thanks again for your supreme documentation of this procedure!
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Old 08-11-2011, 01:50 PM
  #26  
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You are the KING of pictorials, really great job.

Dont have any fuel tank related problems (yet), but I am sure I will use this pictorial when needeed.

Great job!
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Old 08-11-2011, 03:55 PM
  #27  
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Dwayne, thanks for the write up. Going to tackel the job this weekend. Now I need to find me a Gas Tank.

This is a step by step instruction process for me to follow. I wish you were my next door neighbor, Dwayne.

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Old 08-11-2011, 09:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Fogey1 View Post
Any chance of convincing you to run a JB Weld repair test on the holed tank? (I love to draft other people for work. ;-)

I'd be interested in seeing if a plastic weld repair would work.
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Old 08-11-2011, 11:19 PM
  #29  
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Fantastic write up as usual Dwayne ... thanks for the time you spend in documenting everything so meticulously.

I agree with Stan on the replacement of the connecting pipe (#13) and seals. With filters being taken off and new ones being put on, in a well maintained car, the nut at the filter end tends to get rounded off and sealing rings have had their day.
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Old 08-12-2011, 02:22 AM
  #30  
Dwayne
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Originally Posted by abecker View Post
Dwayne - I have an '86 automatic. When I fill it all the way, I smell fuel. It seems to take only about 17 gallons of fuel. When I put in around 13 gallons, I don't smell any fuel at all. I ordered an oil ring for the sender hoping that was the problem and have not looked at the old one yet. But, I see your excellent post and worry my tank is also cracked. Any suggestions? Thanks again for your supreme documentation of this procedure!
Hello abecker,
I've also smelled fuel inside the car when the fuel sending unit gasket was leaking on Idaho (1988). Same symptoms as you describe - fill it up, smell gas. Drive off a few gallons of gas and no smell. Replacing the fuel level sending unit gasket in the hatch area cured the problem. If your gasket is leaking, you should be able to see gas staining around the top of the fuel tank around the fuel sending unit without having to take out the sending unit. Or check the area right after you fill up and drive home and you should see gas pooled around the top of the tank.

If you don't see signs of fuel leak around the top of the tank, look under the tank while the car is securely lifted in the rear and look for staining on the sides of the tank. If the tank is cracked, I have not tried to repair a crack so can't recommend a repair type of fix but others here may have tried it. I would recommend getting a good used tank. 928 International usually holds a 1/2 price sale on used 928 parts each year starting early December. This may be the best option to get a good used tank at a great price if you find you have a damaged tank.
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