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Brake Fluid Flush Procedure w/Pics

 
 
Old 12-01-2008, 12:25 AM
  #16  
jpitman2
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Fabulous, just what I need, doing it next weekend!
jp 83 Euro S AT 51k
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:35 AM
  #17  
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make sure that you have a an additional hole (small) drilled into the top of the catch can otherwise you will be pressurizing it and then when you remove the hose from the bleeder the fluid will push out from the pressurized bottle
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Old 12-01-2008, 12:38 AM
  #18  
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Thanks, duly noted.
jp
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:04 AM
  #19  
Lizard928
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I used one of these and was not overly impressed with the pedal feel afterwards, and while I did everything the same, when I went back to the old 2 person method the brakes felt much much better after and I did see some air come out. But I was working on a practically dry system.

As to brake fluid do not run DOT 5 unless you flush everything out and replace all seals.

You can however run DOT 5.1, 4 or 3
DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3, and 4 systems but has a much higher boiling point. I run wilwood 600+ in one car, and wilwood 675 in the other cars. I find that I have much better pedal feel and even with the 575 in the car, I experianced ZERO brake fade on a track that every other 928 that has run has seen fade.

Good post btW Dwayne.
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:41 AM
  #20  
jon928se
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Dwayne - you must be getting bored of the adulation by now. Usual in depth quality.

I was disappointed that havin bought 20ft of clear hose you didn't figure out a way of bleeding the brakes while sitting having dinner or watching TV LOL.

Originally Posted by Lizard931 View Post
I used one of these and was not overly impressed with the pedal feel afterwards, and while I did everything the same, when I went back to the old 2 person method the brakes felt much much better after and I did see some air come out. But I was working on a practically dry system..
It sometimes helps to leave the pressure bleeder hooked up and flowing then give the pedal a quick pump down but slowly back up so that the MC refills from the bleeder.

Originally Posted by Lizard931 View Post

As to brake fluid do not run DOT 5 unless you flush everything out and replace all seals.

You can however run DOT 5.1, 4 or 3
DOT 5.1 is compatible with DOT 3, and 4 systems but has a much higher boiling point.
+1 to all that Liz. Good to dispel the confusion.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:57 AM
  #21  
marton
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Great write-up

Did mine earlier this year with same Motive Power bleeder & dot5.1; pedal is really hard now.

Only extra point I would add is do not use too much force when undoing the bleeder nipples; they are not hard to break... Maybe squirt them with some easing fluid an hour or two before you start.

Marton
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:26 AM
  #22  
Hilton
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Nice write-up as ever.

When I did mine, I also bled the master cylinder - there's a bleed nipple on top of it, just below the reservoir, pointing up.
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:09 AM
  #23  
John Veninger
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Nice write up.
The blue hose for the manual cars can cause a real mess and will blow off at around 15psi if it is fairly old.
Sometimes first hand experience is NOT how you want to learn.

Keeping it at 10-12psi and there shouldn't be a problem.
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Old 12-01-2008, 01:03 PM
  #24  
Mrmerlin
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the reservour will come off the master with about 20 PSI, it launches like a rocket
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Old 12-01-2008, 03:58 PM
  #25  
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You are my hero.
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:22 PM
  #26  
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Dwayne, you the daddy! Thanks for another great write up!
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Old 12-01-2008, 04:44 PM
  #27  
Tom in Austin
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I like the tips for removing the bleeder when finished. The way I do it is to lower the power bleeder over the fender until it rests on the ground; i.e. lower than the master cylinder. Then, when I gradually loosen the cap on the reservoir it seems to suck excess fluid back down into the power bleeder, and I only have to do a little final topping off to get the level correct.

Something others may have noticed too ... if you wiggle the bleeder screw the least bit while the fluid is escaping you can get a long string of tiny bubbles. I think these come from the screw vicinity and not from the lines, but I ran a ton of fluid through waiting for these to stop. Also, if you're bleeding after opening the system, like for example, re-installing a caliper, it can take a long time to get all the air out of the lines. I tend to overkill and buy too much fluid to be sure I get all the bubbles out.

One other note, I believe it's true after opening the system, you are supposed to re-bleed after driving the car and engaging the anti-lock system a few times. Some air can apparently get trapped in the antilock plumbing and it has to escape out into the main lines in order to be bled out.

No doubt, the Motive is a handy tool and beats the heck out of any other way of doing this job.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:10 PM
  #28  
Randy V
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I'll copy this over to the 928 DIY forum.

(Dwayne posted this back in August )
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