heinrich

No need to pull the drains, unless you're changing coolant. Mike is right I was thinking your car looks awesome ... almost new in fact.

StratfordShark

I asked a couple of days ago whether you had to drain rad, block or both to do this job.

Was advised that if you remove top hose from radiator and catch what comes out that will drain enough water out of the bridge to let you take it off.

When I changed my t-stat and seal I drained the rad first, and remember that you could see the water below the o-ring of the bridge but there was no water in the bridge itself, certainly not enough to drain out of the t-stat elbow.

I'm in the middle of intake job so don't want to risk any coolant getting in the oil filler or the front cylinders. If anyone thinks it's not safe to just drain via the top hose then I'll drain the whole rad.

Dwayne

I edited the post/procedure for leaving the crossbrace attached until after the car is lifted and supported on jackstands and added re-attaching the crossbrace before lowering the car. I believe this is a better procedure/order. THANKS for the comments/recommendations!!!

borland

Congrats on the new addition.

I could add, that you should have coated the coolant o-rings with a liberal amount of silicone grease for assembly.

This is a normal part of the top end refresh which you'll like need to perform regardless of milage. Removing the intake is quite easy.