Testing Crank Position Sensor 928 S4
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Testing Crank Position Sensor 928 S4
Hey guys, was wondering if anyone can help me to see how I test my CPS on 1987 928 S4?
Been having idling issues, black smoke and I already replaced MAF. Read up on a few postings that some have had the same issues on having and the replacement of CPS helped.
I've searched on how to test bu only seen a few that have tested on a tool with an LCD screen that shows oscillations.
So my question is can I or can't not test it with a multi-meter? And if yes, how do I test it out?
Thanks
Ricardo Vega
1987 Black/Plum 928 S4
125,xxx miles.
Been having idling issues, black smoke and I already replaced MAF. Read up on a few postings that some have had the same issues on having and the replacement of CPS helped.
I've searched on how to test bu only seen a few that have tested on a tool with an LCD screen that shows oscillations.
So my question is can I or can't not test it with a multi-meter? And if yes, how do I test it out?
Thanks
Ricardo Vega
1987 Black/Plum 928 S4
125,xxx miles.
#2
If it's not new, replace it so you don't have to worry about it for 15 years. A multimeter will not be able to tell you anything.
#4
Nordschleife Master
Actually, a meter will tell you something.
There are three connections in the plug. One is for the shielding on the cable. The other two are for the sensor.
If you put the meter on "ohms" it will show resistance across two of the posts. If you pass a piece of steel over the end of the sensor, the resistance will change (I forget the exact values). There are "sensor testers" out there that do essentially the same thing.
BUT...
I had an intermittently bad sensor. The car would randomly stall or not start. It worked with both the meter and sensor tester. Replacing it fixed all the starting issues.
There are three connections in the plug. One is for the shielding on the cable. The other two are for the sensor.
If you put the meter on "ohms" it will show resistance across two of the posts. If you pass a piece of steel over the end of the sensor, the resistance will change (I forget the exact values). There are "sensor testers" out there that do essentially the same thing.
BUT...
I had an intermittently bad sensor. The car would randomly stall or not start. It worked with both the meter and sensor tester. Replacing it fixed all the starting issues.
#6
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To answer the original question: the best way to test CPS operation is with an O'scope at the back of the EZK connector.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, thank you guys for insight. I just logged into forum and have already order new CPS. Will be here on Friday.
Is there anything unique I need to do when I install it? Like have a certain position engine should be se at or anything else I should be aware of?
Thanks.
RV
Is there anything unique I need to do when I install it? Like have a certain position engine should be se at or anything else I should be aware of?
Thanks.
RV
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#9
Burning Brakes
The only thing i can tell it's that cps is a pita to remove,after many years... As suggested before, acetone-atf fluid mix is the only stuff that penetrated between bell recess and cps in my car, so i removed the sensor with no big problems...
#10
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Thread Starter
Awesome, I've already sprayed it with a bolt remover can, will spray again tonight again. I get part in tomorrow. I'm hoping that is my problem. Car has been acting up. Changed out MAF already. Thank you all!
RVII
RVII
#11
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New crank position sensors $78
__________________
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
#12
Rennlist Member
MrMerlin recommends using mechanics wire under CPS connector and a wood dowel to pull the CPS straight up. I've had good results using that method.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hey guys, thanks for all feedback and just to give some updating and feedback on my newly installed CPS. That didn't fix my issue at all, if anything now its worse than before! Kinda odd.
So to give you all my initial issue, car would rev high and low(I guess hunting) after I would drive I drove it for a while. I did end up ordering a new MAF from Louie Ott. Installed and that wasn't the issue.
So I cleaned up all grounds, or most of them and nothing new.
I just installed CPS on Sunday and now car dies on right away, I need to press gas to keep it going. Sometimes I press gas all the way down and car hesitates just limping along till it kicks in with power. If I coast it and pull off gas it dies. If I start it without pressing on gas it dies. I have to press gas even at a stop while I have my foot on brake pedal. Any suggestions? I have checked the flex plate already. I check it every 6 months.
RVII
So to give you all my initial issue, car would rev high and low(I guess hunting) after I would drive I drove it for a while. I did end up ordering a new MAF from Louie Ott. Installed and that wasn't the issue.
So I cleaned up all grounds, or most of them and nothing new.
I just installed CPS on Sunday and now car dies on right away, I need to press gas to keep it going. Sometimes I press gas all the way down and car hesitates just limping along till it kicks in with power. If I coast it and pull off gas it dies. If I start it without pressing on gas it dies. I have to press gas even at a stop while I have my foot on brake pedal. Any suggestions? I have checked the flex plate already. I check it every 6 months.
RVII