Looking for an alignment shop along the way
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Looking for an alignment shop along the way
I am leaving for Pittsburgh this Saturday and unfortunately none of the 928 capable alignment shops around Seattle have openings before then. So I'm looking to get it done along the way in order to limit the wear on my new tires. Anybody know of any good shops in one of these areas?
Spokane
In Montana east of Livininston (Ed know anybody in Bozeman?)
Between Minneapolis and Chicago
Between Chicago and Kentucky
Thanks in advance!
Spokane
In Montana east of Livininston (Ed know anybody in Bozeman?)
Between Minneapolis and Chicago
Between Chicago and Kentucky
Thanks in advance!
#2
Rennlist Member
Hi Nate,
There's a shop in the Minneapolis area that is highly recommended. The shop owner races at PCA events. [Don't let the shop name throw you] They are also one of the PCA DE inspection shops. Just had my alignment done there. Very satisfied.
Courtney Truck Service
14205 West 62nd Street
Eden Prairie, MN 55346
952-934-0931
There's a shop in the Minneapolis area that is highly recommended. The shop owner races at PCA events. [Don't let the shop name throw you] They are also one of the PCA DE inspection shops. Just had my alignment done there. Very satisfied.
Courtney Truck Service
14205 West 62nd Street
Eden Prairie, MN 55346
952-934-0931
#3
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Let me recommend that you find a place sooner rather than later in your journey. Maybe take it to a [any] local place before you leave, then get any needed touch-up done along the way. For a while, folks were recommending Sears/NTB because they have the "correct" Hunter equipment. After that it's a crapshoot on renting/bribing the right technician or manager into taking the time to get it right. If you select a Sears/NTB or other national chain, the touch-up may be no extra charge.
Personal experience: I had what appeared to be a good alignment done at a highly-recommended area shop when we were in SoCal. In a couple thousand miles the fronts were worn way thin on the inner rib. Took it back to the same shop, where we went through the whole thing again. I sat under the car again with the same tech on the same machine, which showed that everything was fine. Right. That's when I decided to start building the laser fixtures needed to do it myself. Even now though, getting everything "just right" is an iterative process. I can get everything reading "just right", then go drive the car 100 miles and it may not feel "just right". Measure again and tweak something very slightly, still well within "just right" measurements. Then drive again. My max is two readjustments so far. Once dialed in this way, the car drives like it's in an amazing groove. Bill Ball and I were comparing methods and results after some parallel work on this stuff, and came to the conclusion that there's a definite sweet spot where the wheels and the stars are perfectly aligned at the same time. That sweet spot can be hard to find, as even with what seem to be perfect readings it can still not feel "just right". You'll know it when it happens.
Search "DIY Alignment" for a few threads on our early efforts. Search also for some guidance from Earl Gilstrom, who explains the strings-and-pocket scale method for setting toe. You can do camber with a bubble level and the right drill bit (IIRC 5/32 for 16" wheels) for offset at the top, then the strings (I recommend heavy thread) supported on jackstands with the pocket scale to get the toe settings.
Personal experience: I had what appeared to be a good alignment done at a highly-recommended area shop when we were in SoCal. In a couple thousand miles the fronts were worn way thin on the inner rib. Took it back to the same shop, where we went through the whole thing again. I sat under the car again with the same tech on the same machine, which showed that everything was fine. Right. That's when I decided to start building the laser fixtures needed to do it myself. Even now though, getting everything "just right" is an iterative process. I can get everything reading "just right", then go drive the car 100 miles and it may not feel "just right". Measure again and tweak something very slightly, still well within "just right" measurements. Then drive again. My max is two readjustments so far. Once dialed in this way, the car drives like it's in an amazing groove. Bill Ball and I were comparing methods and results after some parallel work on this stuff, and came to the conclusion that there's a definite sweet spot where the wheels and the stars are perfectly aligned at the same time. That sweet spot can be hard to find, as even with what seem to be perfect readings it can still not feel "just right". You'll know it when it happens.
Search "DIY Alignment" for a few threads on our early efforts. Search also for some guidance from Earl Gilstrom, who explains the strings-and-pocket scale method for setting toe. You can do camber with a bubble level and the right drill bit (IIRC 5/32 for 16" wheels) for offset at the top, then the strings (I recommend heavy thread) supported on jackstands with the pocket scale to get the toe settings.
#4
Rennlist Member
Nate,
I've had pretty good luck with local Sears/NTB. The only thing is: you have to convince them that they cannot under any circumstances raise the body off the suspension to do any kind of inspection. It is apparently part of their corporate quality control that they do this inspection, so it takes a good amount of convincing...AND you have to watch them carefully to make sure they don't raise it since it is ingrained into their procedure. It only takes them a few seconds to do it. Once you convince the service writer, you have to educate the technician and explain why he can't raise it and then make sure he doesn't forget that he can't raise it.
It can be a pain, but most of my local Sears have the newest Hunter machines that adjust to the .001 versus the older Hunter machines that adjust to the .01.
They will also sometimes tell you that they don't have the proper equipment to do the alignment. What they are generally missing is the hold-down for the front of the car which would only be needed if your car's suspension is not fully settled. You can explain that to them also since you will want to make sure that your car is fully settled before you take it to be aligned.
I've had pretty good luck with local Sears/NTB. The only thing is: you have to convince them that they cannot under any circumstances raise the body off the suspension to do any kind of inspection. It is apparently part of their corporate quality control that they do this inspection, so it takes a good amount of convincing...AND you have to watch them carefully to make sure they don't raise it since it is ingrained into their procedure. It only takes them a few seconds to do it. Once you convince the service writer, you have to educate the technician and explain why he can't raise it and then make sure he doesn't forget that he can't raise it.
It can be a pain, but most of my local Sears have the newest Hunter machines that adjust to the .001 versus the older Hunter machines that adjust to the .01.
They will also sometimes tell you that they don't have the proper equipment to do the alignment. What they are generally missing is the hold-down for the front of the car which would only be needed if your car's suspension is not fully settled. You can explain that to them also since you will want to make sure that your car is fully settled before you take it to be aligned.
Last edited by soontobered84; 07-06-2017 at 01:00 PM. Reason: add
#5
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John's right, most alignment people are just hell-bent on lifting the car ... as a little insurance, measure the height at the front wheel opening so can you compare after the work is finished.
That way, you'll know whether they lifted the car or not and whether the alignment will have to be re-done.
That way, you'll know whether they lifted the car or not and whether the alignment will have to be re-done.
#6
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Kenny v Tires in CDA (208) 765-6710, would not have thought this place could do alignments but this is where I got my 928 aligned last time. They were recommended by the local dealership, worked out great.
#7
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But, the last thing I need is someone from Rennlist showing up trying to tell Jim, a 30+ year veteran of working on this cars, how to do his job.
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#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for the all the recommendations guys!
Unfortunately I do not have the time between now and Saturday morning to even attempt a DIY alignment or try to educate a shop new to 928s on how to do this properly. Right now I have Ed's (linderpat) mechanic in Pittsburgh scheduled for next week, but I also found a shop in Seattle familiar with 928s that may be able to fit me in tomorrow (fingers crossed). If that falls through I will try to set something up with one of the shops above. And Hacker I totally get what you are saying. Plus I am completely comfortable with any shop that is recommended by a 928 owner who has had good results regardless of methods.
Unfortunately I do not have the time between now and Saturday morning to even attempt a DIY alignment or try to educate a shop new to 928s on how to do this properly. Right now I have Ed's (linderpat) mechanic in Pittsburgh scheduled for next week, but I also found a shop in Seattle familiar with 928s that may be able to fit me in tomorrow (fingers crossed). If that falls through I will try to set something up with one of the shops above. And Hacker I totally get what you are saying. Plus I am completely comfortable with any shop that is recommended by a 928 owner who has had good results regardless of methods.
#9
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Expert Alignment and Brake in Spokane has aligned mine twice over the years. Just remind them about the front end needing to settle before setting the toe.
#10
Rennlist Member
Working on the car until the 11th hour, then driving from Seattle with a plan to align along the way...I'm buying you a beer this week to commemorate your dedication to the mission.