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Also, the dual plate clutch in the early cars is one of the weakest links in the drivetrain. If you have to do clutch replacement work, you might want to consider going to the more substantial pinned clutch of the '83-'86 cars. That's what Carl at 928 Motorsports did on my '79.
I would like to keep the car as close to original spec as possible, with prices of sorted cars quickly on the rise it only make sense. It would probably take me a while, this car is in worse shape of any cars I have restored!
Step 1 is to get it shifting again!
Also, the dual plate clutch in the early cars is one of the weakest links in the drivetrain. If you have to do clutch replacement work, you might want to consider going to the more substantial pinned clutch of the '83-'86 cars. That's what Carl at 928 Motorsports did on my '79.
The 83-86 clutches as you mentioned are still the double-disc clutch variety. Just that over the years Porsche made some refinements on how the clutch is installed and removed. In fact, the biggest gripe about the early, double disc clutches is getting them properly gapped.
It still could be the discs, but if it is then it'll be discs AND the short shaft because if the discs are causing the no-release condition it's because the teeth and splines are gnarled up (I.e., installed without the special grease).
When you you get the clutch apart, take pics of everything and post 'em.
Well guys you know this moment when you realize why you were able to buy something so cheap? I had mine today with 928.
Removed the clutch cover, first thing I noticed is sloppy weld spots on the clutch shaft to driveshaft attachment, the clamps were missing and PO tried to weld the sleeve to the shafts....yeah...
We were able to brake off the welds and get the sleeve moving again, however the the clutch shaft would not go back far enough ... could not figure out why, there were hammer marks on the pressure plate, we started to look further and there it was:
Looks like I will need a new (used) clutch housing, started removing the bolts already but could not get to 2 top torque tube bolts, in this situation how would I remove the clutch out of there?
On the brighter side the clutch itself looks very new, I am hoping it is:
Sorry to see you got 'burned' on this one.
The later bell housing has provisions for a crank position sensor but I don't know if it would fit otherwise. I would get a bell housing, clamp, and new clamp bolts from 928 International. Are the splines damaged from the welding attempt? I would get a good used intermediate shaft at least.
You will have to drop the transaxle and torque tube or pull the engine to replace the bell housing. I would remove the engine, it is not that hard, and take care of all the oil leaks, replace water pump and timing belt, etc.
Sorry to see you got 'burned' on this one.
The later bell housing has provisions for a crank position sensor but I don't know if it would fit otherwise. I would get a bell housing, clamp, and new clamp bolts from 928 International. Are the splines damaged from the welding attempt? I would get a good used intermediate shaft at least.
You will have to drop the transaxle and torque tube or pull the engine to replace the bell housing. I would remove the engine, it is not that hard, and take care of all the oil leaks, replace water pump and timing belt, etc.
Even if I decide to pull the engine I still need to disconnect the torque tube, because I just don't see a way to remove the clutch right now and without removing the clutch there is no way to get to upper 2 torque tube bolts.
Or is there there still a way to drop the clutch still, am I missing anything?
Found a clamp with bolts, and the clutch housing, I just don't know if the later housing will work anything else has a clue about housing interchangeability?
Thankfully the shafts were not damaged by the welding, clamp slides freely.
Even if I decide to pull the engine I still need to disconnect the torque tube, because I just don't see a way to remove the clutch right now and without removing the clutch there is no way to get to upper 2 torque tube bolts.
Or is there there still a way to drop the clutch still, am I missing anything?
Found a clamp with bolts, and the clutch housing, I just don't know if the later housing will work anything else has a clue about housing interchangeability?
Thankfully the shafts were not damaged by the welding, clamp slides freely.
Did you look through the WSM yet? It's all laid out very well in the manual. There are free PDFs at www.ligeti.com/928.
Even if you get it apart, you'll not be able to get the intermediate plate adjusted during reassembly without going through the process listed in the manual.
Got you, I read the WSM but got it backwards... I understand now.
Will do.
So does anyone know if later year clutch housing will work for my 1980 928?
Can't find an early early used one.
I have zero personal experience with this, but just looking at the PET parts manual the '87 should fit. The part number for the '87 (928.116.402.00) also shows up in the '78-83 PET.
PET gurus, what does an A code stand for? The '78-'83 PET has two numbers for the clutch housing: A928.116.401.11 and 928.116.402.00. I know that A can stand for Austria, but there couldn't have been an Austrian-only clutch housing, right?
Here is the housing I am looking at from 1987 S4, obviously I will not use that sensor and there is a bolt where the ball should be, I take it it;s from an automatic mode. I should be able to unscrew the bolt and put the ball in?
I have zero personal experience with this, but just looking at the PET parts manual the '87 should fit. The part number for the '87 (928.116.402.00) also shows up in the '78-83 PET.
PET gurus, what does an A code stand for? The '78-'83 PET has two numbers for the clutch housing: A928.116.401.11 and 928.116.402.00. I know that A can stand for Austria, but there couldn't have been an Austrian-only clutch housing, right?
I'm thinking that the "A" stands for "automatic" transmission.
Could be wrong on that, though.
I would not suggest using an auto bell housing. Find one from a manual car.
My first suggestion would be to call Tom or Mark at 928 International and ask them what you need and what would work. They know these cars and what fits what pretty well.
Second, you don't have to pull the motor or drop the entire TT/transaxle to swap out the BH. You can just unbolt the trans mounts and slide it back a couple inches.
It's more about getting the short shaft out after the pilot bearing seizes up and locks the shaft into the back of the crank, but in the process, he damaged the BH and had to replace it.
I'm thinking that the "A" stands for "automatic" transmission.
Could be wrong on that, though.
I don't think that's it. Both part numbers show up on both the manual and automatic pages of the PET.
It does appear that the auto and manual use the same housing, though, so that '87 should work fine in your '80. Might want to keep the sensor in there and just clip the wire so for a little weatherization, though. It certainly won't interfere with any of the rotating assembly.
06-05-2017, 11:38 PM
