soontobered84

Was this car under water?

Or probably more correctly: Is there a possiblility that this car was under water?

Majestic Moose

No, just left in a stuffy garage for years. If it had been, then the interior would have been entirely replaced because it is pretty nice yet reflects its age.

Mrmerlin

I have a good dent removal man he could probably restore the fender to smooth then some airbrush touchup PM for the number

joekuntze

he was getting tires put on it for you to pick up when i called him looks like a deal

AirtekHVAC

Very nice catch there sir!

Majestic Moose

Yes the owner said the tires were beyond dry rotted so I arranged to have new tires mounted to the stock wheels.

I took the car for a spin on Friday and the brakes were sticking during stop and go traffic, then they let go but the brake pedal went all the way to the floor. Brake fluid level did not change; no leaks that I could find. I am thinking failed brake master cylinder? A failed booster would show as a hard brake pedal?

voskian

Alex, you have your hands full with both the 83 and 89. Which one will you bring to Frenzy?!

Majestic Moose

The '83 will make a triumphant return of course! Also I am hoping to take it to the PVGP.

Majestic Moose

I did my first job - replacing the brake master cylinder. I like how the FSM states to use a 1/4" ratchet, extension, and 13mm socket. This is not so easy, at least not for the hard to get to nut under the fender. I used a U-joint extension to get it done. I cleaned out the reservoir as best as I could, refitted it, and filled with ATE DOT 4. I loosened the bleeder and left it overnight.

Before:


Master cylinder fitted:


Complete:


To bleed the system I loosened the first then second brake lines as recommended then bled the master cylinder. Then bled the calipers inner then outer, closest wheel to furthest. I used up a full liter bottle of fluid, The brakes operate very well but the pedal is not as hard as on my '83 but I'm not sure that is a direct comparison, given the totally different braking system plus ABS. I only drove it about 20 miles but the brakes did not stick and seems to perform well.

This was my first chance getting a good look underneath.

Slotted and drilled rotors all around, is this stock?


Full belly pans in place:



Light corrosion on the exhaust:


Outer tie rods are shot:


Right outer CV boot is torn:


Loose hose under fuel tank filler:


The hood was grossly misaligned and I have corrected it to the best of my ability but something is off at the cowl area. First of all one of the struts is dead which had me confounded as to why I couldn't align the hood even enough to shut. Once I figured that out I removed both and aligned it perfectly at the front.



Here is the problem, at the left side the hood is raised above the fender and on the right it sits below. It is adjusted as much as possible to correct this but it is not even close. Any tips?

vetter59

Try lubing the hood hinges first with some automatic trans fluid, a Stan tip!

Mrmerlin

did you use some DC111 on the resivour grommets?

see how the last one is all rusty at the tank,
the DC111 will prevent water from corroding the tank ports.
As Lou said hood hinges are dry they need to be lubed then readjust the hood.

Red Flash

In general the paint looks really good.

Strange I find the significant amount of dry rot of the rubber items (including the replaced tires). What causes this? The rubber on both of my GTs look new...

Of course, it is not a serious problem, you can just replace it all and the car will be new again. :-)

Majestic Moose

Yes I used DC 111, they are calling it Molykote now by the way.

I did lube the hinges when I first got it but not now that I was re-aligning it. I will lube more but it seems that the hinge that is too high runs out of travel and I could put significant weight on it without it moving down any further. For the hinge that sits too low, I think tension from good struts will raise it up. I will fiddle with it some more when I get the chance.

As to the cause of the dry rot I am not sure, but all of the parts affected are wear and maintenance items to be replaced anyway.

The Deputy

Nice fine Alex.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with the hood hinges until both struts are replaced, and are of equal values.

Brian.

Majestic Moose

A couple weeks ago I dropped the car off to the shop recommended by Stan to repair the fender and a small dent on the rear quarter panel. I would highly recommend PA Dent Repair as well, Bill is very knowledgeable, some of the technicalities he explained to me about the body work and paint went way over my head. I think it came out great and the final paint repair will not use any filler. I decided that what makes sense for me was to fix the fender now, perform all the mechanical repairs, and give it back to him to paint the damaged area and go over the entire car for paint correction.

Before:



After:


I installed the replacement headlamp onto the old 'base' and found that it would not flip all the way up, leaving about a 20mm gap between the base and the stop.




No amount of adjustment would correct this. So logically I thought that the tube must have been bent on impact. I was provided with two extra headlamp base and tube assemblies so I decided to try and replace it though I did not think there would be clearance with the fender installed but thankfully Porsche got this right

I swapped in the good assembly and it all fit perfectly, rotating all the way up against the stop. Then I went through the trouble of transferring the base belonging to the car with a good used tube because the other bases are a different color. Well, the problem appeared again. So the conclusion is that the cast alum base must be warped, even though I cannot see any evidence of this whatsoever.

Replacement headlamp base:



So with that solved I am putting together an extensive list of parts for the overhaul. I am leaning towards a full engine rebuild minus the engine block itself, I mean head gaskets, cylinder heads, maybe rod bearings.