Rear Hatch won't Latch
why?
Nothing looks cracked or broken and I have one of those new sleeves I believe Jerry vesion from OCIC. Hatch has been up for months and now I can't slam it hard enough to catch. I'm sure this one has probably been solved before... What's likely at fault (besides the user)? |
Often the tongue on the hatch doesn't "catch" the latch. The old fix is to put a couple pennies under the tongue to help the angle and get it to catch the latch. I think all my 928s have washers or pennies under them to get it to engage. Doesn't take much.
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There is a factory shim, I've seen them ;)
You should not need to "slam" it either, if the Receiver surround(that plastic part) is new and not worn out, then the upper may be cracked, or... from slamming it, it could be out of alignment now. Did it work before storage? May want to start out by just realigning it from scratch, also sometimes the upper sticks, use the key and turn it back and forth and watch the moving latch. |
It could also be that the unlatching motor has stopped at the opening position and hasn't cycled all the way around to the locking position. Use the remote switch by your seat to see if you can "bump" the motor around to the locking position.
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Or, it could be that the latch is worn and you need a new one.
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Originally Posted by soontobered84
(Post 14203167)
It could also be that the unlatching motor has stopped at the opening position and hasn't cycled all the way around to the locking position. Use the remote switch by you seat to see if you can "bump" the motor around to the locking position.
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Originally Posted by soontobered84
(Post 14203167)
It could also be that the unlatching motor has stopped at the opening position and hasn't cycled all the way around to the locking position. Use the remote switch by you seat to see if you can "bump" the motor around to the locking position.
The unlatching motor doesn't "cycle" anymore. It advances only when switch is pulled up and stops immediately when the switch is released. Next question... what controls the servo cycle? |
the 1 amp fuse
you can also cycle it to get it to the correct position by trial and error |
Thanks Dave,
So if fuse #26 (1 amp for hatch release on 87 S4) is blown, the motor still receives power through the switch, but only when engaged? That will be an easy fix. I used the trial an error method to get it to stay closed for now. Any of the MI gang going to SITM? If not, see you hell! |
I actually thought it was a function of the relay when the motor stopped. Brighter minds will keep us straight, I am sure.
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This may be what's going on with mine, thanks for the heads up!
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Beautiful.... I'll get it.... You all are great!
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Originally Posted by davek9
(Post 14205161)
the 1 amp fuse
you can also cycle it to get it to the correct position by trial and error |
Sounds like a different issue, but my latch was loose and not securely catching the tear hatch. I adjusted it and tightened it back down. Works fine now. |
Would have helped to have the model year up front, as the remote release was not on all years.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k |
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