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Warehouse find - 87 Engine and partial torque tube

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Old 05-31-2017, 01:37 PM
  #31  
Imo000
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Are there valve contact marks on the piston tops or impact marks on the valves?
Old 05-31-2017, 02:22 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Are there valve contact marks on the piston tops or impact marks on the valves?
No.
Old 05-31-2017, 02:33 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
I would make studs and JB weld them into the block it will be stronger than screwing bolts into the broken ends
NOTE fit check everything before you install the studs to verfiy they are long enough.

I dont see any way the timing jumped from an accident either in the timing belt or the timing chain.

The comment that the engine freezes up at a certain point leads me to believe the crank might be bent . check the flywheel for runout,
OR maybe you had a pin sticking out of the flywheel for the dealer timing sensor that was hitting your engine stand
I would like to be clear - it never froze - it hit something in either direction. Valves is all I can think. The crank turns very smoothly.

I pulled out my dial indicator, cleaned as best I could a ring just outside the cupped area of the flywheel (manual version), zero'd it out. The runout was mostly negligible except an area of about 45 degrees where one reading was a few needle widths + and the other few needle widths - where i zero'd it out. In between those reading it was back to zero.

I guess that means the crank is ok?
Old 05-31-2017, 10:57 PM
  #34  
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at what point did you notice the engine would not turn.
on the pallet?
on the engine stand?
Was the pressure plate still attached?

if so then their are 2 reference pins that could have been hitting ,
this would be enough to stop the crank.

I mean think about this,
the block and pistons look great no damage ,
have the valves checked ,
their is not much that will prevent the engine from turning over
Old 06-01-2017, 05:28 PM
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Imo000
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Shouldn't have taken it apart until you figured out what was locking up the engine. It will be much harder to figure out now.
Old 06-06-2017, 06:54 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Flipped the engine and pulled the oil pan. Nothing in the oil pan except oil. Inside looks very clean.




Old 06-07-2017, 10:15 AM
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Chris Lockhart
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Nice! The innards sure are clean.
Old 06-07-2017, 10:23 AM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Cleanest insides I have seen. Inside of piston crown is a bit discolored, but everything else is pristine. Waiting on the verdict on the heads. If they are ok then I am going to put it back together and drop it into my 87 that needs to be rebuilt. It'll get a torque tube with Constantine's bearings and just maybe an 89 with LSD.
Old 06-07-2017, 12:26 PM
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Heck yeah. Sounds like a good plan. :-) Fingers crossed for you on the heads.
Old 03-16-2018, 12:10 PM
  #40  
Kevin in Atlanta
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Well, I got the block welded. Not pretty, but the weld is stout and with the PS cassette in place it will not be visible. I test fit and torqued down the cassette and it fit perfect. The welder even fixed the crack at the larger alternator bolt. He was able to squeeze it back together and weld it in place.

Old 03-16-2018, 04:35 PM
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Imo000
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Is the PS cassette parallel with the block?
Old 03-16-2018, 09:10 PM
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Yes, all the holes line up prefectly. Looks ugly, but it lines up.
Old 03-17-2018, 05:40 PM
  #43  
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Nice recovery!
Old 03-17-2018, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SwayBar
Nice recovery!

Thanks.

It almost didn't happen. Turns out that if there is any JB-weld on the surfaces you can kiss welding goodbye.

Lucky for me there wasn't very much and my welder was able to burn it off.
Old 09-23-2018, 07:46 PM
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I'm going to close out this recovery thread by adding that as of this weekend the engine is in my 87 and running great. It's first road trip is going to be to Frenzy this weekend.



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