jwillman

I have done searches and read multiple approaches on removal.

Some indicate that the metal / plastic exterior trim must be removed first before window and seal can be pushed out from inside the car.

Others indicate that the trim is easily damaged and to remove the window with trim installed by rolling the edge of the seal off the inside lip of the body and push it out.

Looking for clarity on the best approach without getting into a which oil is best kind of thread

Guy

I have always left them in. It's probably easier without them in place but I never wanted to kink them. I lubed the heck out of the seals until it was akin to jelly wrestling.

hacker-pschorr

I recently removed a 1/4 window from my 80. Metal trim was surprisingly easy to get off. IIRC start with the rear corner. Once that piece was removed the rest just popped right out using plastic pry tools.

I spent a considerable amount of time carefully removing the window & seal to prevent damage since I found many posts stating how ridiculously expensive the seal is. Once removed and I saw the condition of a 37 year old rubber seal, I realized what a waste of time that was. Next time I'm going to cut the seal and buy a new one.

Check with Roger on the current price (I cannot find the e-mail) but when he gave me the quote I felt even worse about the time wasted saving a 37 year old piece of rubber.

I honestly cannot fathom how the seal can be removed with the trim in place and I would be more afraid of damaging the trim that way.

You should install the trim into the seal before installing the seal though, since the trim helps keep the seal in place and is very difficult to install afterwards.

Some threads which helped me:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...w-removal.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...tallation.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-window-s.html

BigAl1

I too removed the trims before the rubber/glass. The trims came off pretty easy, just be careful not to kink them. The rubber/glass took a lot of time and work to get out. Turns out the rubber was glued to the body steel with a urethane type sealant, so breaking that bond was the main problem. I used lots of liquid soap, really working it down between the glass and into the rubber channel. Then try to get a plastic pry toll under the edge of the glass, near the front corner. It took a lot of pushing from inside while prying and working the gap along the rubber line, but finally got the glass out.
My seals have lots of that glue in the body channel, so will try to clean that out - not sure how yet.

Taguid

I can attest to the strength of the rear glass because I sat in the rear hatch area and pushed with my feet until it popped out. I did have someone on the outside ready to catch when it let loose. I reinstalled with new gaskets using DC111 and para-cord in the channel while having someone push from the outside. IIRC there is a YouTube video of this on a 928.

Ladybug83

I recently did this job and I removed the trim pieces before window removal and installed them after fitting the window and seal back in place. Wasn't too terrible but it does take some muscle and finesse to get the trim back in place. I used soapy water to lubricate the trim and the grooves for the trim and then slid the trim in starting from the rear and working them towards the upper front corner of the window. The farther the trim goes in, the more muscle required to slide it forward, but added soapy water and just went slow so as not to kink the trim. I used my left hand to hold it flat and guide it forward while pushing from the rear with my right hand. Just a few mm at a time, pausing frequently so as not to go into "Hulk" mode. Can be done, but other methods may yield easier results. At the time, I wasn't aware that the trim could be installed first before installing the window. If I have to do again ever, maybe I'll try this method.

Captain_Slow

This is probably the most important tip: "pausing frequently so as not to go into "Hulk" mode".

My seals have been replaced. I see what looks like a little bulge of black RTV sealant in one spot. So I think I'm just going to smash the windows and rip out the seals and buy used windows from Mark during the half-price sale....OH...that's what I'll do if I go into Hulk mode...

My only motivation for touching the windows is the trims are kinked. Once kinked is it permanent? Can't be relaxed with heat? I did pick up a used set of trims from Gary at Frenzy...look to be in better condition with a nicer finish. Mine are probably more weathered. I've wondered if starting the lower trim by pressing in the middle portion, at the curve, is the best way to make sure the curve of the trim is aligned with the curve of the seal/window. Then work outward toward the ends.

William A

Tools: nylon scraper/pry tool (narrow), glass suction cups (preferred, not required)


Rob Edwards and I have removed and reinstalled many times (on the same car, lol!). Ideally, this is a 2 person job with one on the inside and one outside. If you don't have windshield/glass suction cups, your GoPro suction mount(s) will do just fine. The outside person will control the window with the suction cup(s), or just their hands if that is all that is handy.


We did not find and glue from the factory on the seals. Best way we found was the reverse of installing. This method protected the lower rearward glass that is curved and narrow, and the weakest portion of the quarter window. given that some force is needed for removal in our experience, you can have fewer worries applying the most required force to the strongest part of the window.


Once all of the interior rear quarter trim is removed, the interior lip of the continuous rubber window seal should be exposed. That interior lip overlaps the thin, metal window frame.


Starting from the top corner of the B pillar, the inside man rolls back the uppermost corner. Pull back the first few inches of the seal back from the metal lip, using the nylon tool and starting at the top most corner (there is a handy extra rubber flange on the inside top and bottom corners).


while pulling the first few inches back on both side of the top corner, the inside man is also applying significant pressure on the glass in that top corner. The outside man has positioned the suction cup as close to the top corner as possible and is pulling at the same time the inside man is pushing and pulling back the rubber (doing the best you can).


That hardest part is dislodging that top corner. Once is starts, the glass can slowly be pulled out easily.


IMPORTANT NOTE: When about 1/2 the window is coming out, pause and try to slide the glass toward the front of the car. By doing this, you will relieve the stress on the weak, lower corner.


The glass should pop right out once you start that top corner, that is the hard part.


Rob and I might have an opportunity to shoot a video of one we have to remove soon, so we will have to get a third person to shoot so we can post it.


Good luck!

Tony

did a video make into production. This is my next job.

i have suction cups but the window is too curved and the suction cups are too large to match the curve of the window and hold suction. Will have to use my gopro cups.

did you guys remove the exterior trim first?

GerritD

Easiest way is to remove the trim first. Make sure the seal is warmed up. This will ease the remove of the window, as well as the reinstallation afterwards.

Tony

it was actually easier with the trim in place except the upper corner where I pushed my zip tie through.(i removed the corner piece) Seal was warm though..car was in the sun all day.

glad that job is over


im going to freak out installing it all over fresh paint.

993turbo

Actually, the installation is far easier. 😁