Shawn Stanford

I basically need a 'coloring book'. There are 20 pages of threads that talk about front cam seals and I know I found one once, but I can't find it again.

Can someone post up a link?

I'm trying to get to Hershey, but I suspect it's not going to happen for my Shark. Spring came too late!

Landseer

That's a pretty straightforward job. You could wing it.

Shawn Stanford

I'm actually progressing pretty well (for me). Drained the coolant, pulled the sprocket covers, got the engine rotated to TDC. Now I can see the sprockets and I don't see any oil behind the sprockets. There's plenty just below, though.

Does that sound right?

GregBBRD

Rarely leaks from the front seal that is directly behind the sprocket. The leak is almost always from the O-ring that seals the front adapter to the cam carrier.

Do the oil pump and the front crank seal, while you are there....

Wisconsin Joe

16v Right? Your sigline says it's an 82.

It's actually pretty simple. Take a TB/WP writeup, skip the WP part, get the belt off & pull off the cam gears. Pull the distributor.

There are 3 bolts that hold the cam fronts (what Greg called the front adapter) on. Pull those 3 bolts and the whole piece pulls off. There are a couple of bearing rings and the distributor gear that will come out with it.
There are seals, o-rings and oil passage seals (not exactly sure what those are really called), plus a seal kinda like an o-ring for the distributor.

Roger has all the seals (as usual, tell him what you are doing and he will know what you need).

What I found to be a huge help on this was the diagram from the PET. Make sure you get all the bearing rings in correctly (there is a bevel on one side - you can see it in the diagram in the PET)

And I took a quick look - I had a spot of difficulty with a couple things and asked for help.

Stan had some very good suggestions and a list of all the seals needed.
Thread here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rank-gear.html

GregBBRD

Almost all camshaft breakage occurs immediately following removing the sprockets and the front adapters from 16 valve engines.

People pry on the gears and adapters, cracking the very brittle cast iron camshafts right at the base of where the nose of the cam meets the larger body.

Do not pry. If the gears are frozen (common) get a proper puller and pull the gears off.

Also no mindless pounding on the adapters.....gentle persuasion is ok....no pounding allowed.

Shawn Stanford

I was looking at Dwayne's WP/Tb procedure (http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/1...0Procedure.htm). I always had the impression it wasn't quite as bad of a job, but looking at it as I pulled it apart, I don't see a way to get the cam sprockets off without releasing the tension on the serpentine, which means taking pretty much the entire front of the motor off.

But, if that's the deal, then that's the deal. Oy...

The serpentine is looking a little worn along the front edge. Replace?

GregBBRD

The cost of a rubber belt is chump change in the 928 world. If there is everything any question, change it.

Belt has to come off to get to any of the seals.

I plan an entire day, in the shop to reseal the front of the engine, if things go right. I'm chasing a noise in the front of an engine, right now....3 days in. Had the belt on and off so many times, now using wing nuts to hold things together.

......This stuff is so easy.....