butcher job
#2
#5
Rennlist Member
I think it's only difficult because it isn't done often enough by most to develop a routine. But there is a thread about 15 minute pod removal, and once it's out the instrument assembly itself is pretty straightforward to get into. One thing that caused me a heck of a lot of grief in the beginning was that the PO had mis-routed the cables to the pod switches. Until I found a couple of good photos here on RL I really struggled with that.
#6
Rennlist Member
Ha! Adam, you're generally right, but it was different for me because I kept screwing around with the lighting, and getting my final solution - EL backlight dials - the way I wanted them. And now I need to go in again because in my latest update I re-placed some of the needles incorrectly...
#7
Ha! Adam, you're generally right, but it was different for me because I kept screwing around with the lighting, and getting my final solution - EL backlight dials - the way I wanted them. And now I need to go in again because in my latest update I re-placed some of the needles incorrectly...
But I bet you will be faster this time around.
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#8
Administrator - "Tyson"
Lifetime Rennlist
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#11
Sorry, I omitted it is a 79. Yeah, the old girl is a bit dim at night. I rarely drive anything after dark but I would like to have it right. Just have to have at it and gitterdone, eh?
#12
Rennlist Member
There are some tricks that make it pretty easy. The biggest one is that you don't have to pull the switches out of the pod. Pull the wheel, and the turn signal switches, pull the under covers and the two main fastners. Now you can just tease the gauge cluster out of the grommets where it mounts to the pod and flop the pod forward leaving the cluster in place. Likewise when re-installing you put the cluster in place and connect all the wires. Now flip the pod back into position, tease the cluster into the grommets and install hardware. Easy.
#14
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I believe you can connect together the two wires that go to the rheostat, bypassing it completely, which will give you full brightness for troubleshooting purposes and let you know if you have a rheostat issue or something else.