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Those ignition "amps" do run warm, hence the plastic covers that keep you from getting burned on them. On their own though, they shouldn't cause a serious system voltage dip if the battery is well charged. Easy enough to unplug the amps and see if they are the cause of your voltage problem. The whole ignition system is prone to low voltage issues when cranking, evidenced by the need for the dedicated power feed from the battery to the EZF relay and the controller.
Those ignition "amps" do run warm, hence the plastic covers that keep you from getting burned on them. On their own though, they shouldn't cause a serious system voltage dip if the battery is well charged. Easy enough to unplug the amps and see if they are the cause of your voltage problem. The whole ignition system is prone to low voltage issues when cranking, evidenced by the need for the dedicated power feed from the battery to the EZF relay and the controller.
Well, fools step in... They run warm, but not hot enough to get burned by them in my experience, and I always thought the plastic covers were weatherproofing, but I certainly could be mistaken. This, and the hot coils, seem to me to point to a short in the primary ignition circuit. Something is causing a direct DC connection, rather than a pulsed input. Failed EZF? Shorted EZF-side harness? And I think unplugging the "amps" (amusing how many different ways these are named in the WSMs!) for a test seems to me to be a mandatory check in this case, although simultaneous failure of both would seem to be effect, rather than cause. But I would check this out right away. On the other hand, I have never had any luck casting spells, so this level of magic is beyond my ken...
REFerence post 56 answer two is not the answer I was looking for,
somebody has done something to this machine what was it?
what was the last thing that was fixed?
maybe new front shocks?
could the front shock piston be getting pushed into the wire harness over the RF wheel as the car goes over bumps?
At this point a significant draw like this is a major short.
NOTE the CE panel needs to be verified for the correct relays and positions and the correct fuse placement.
ALSO the CE panel should be dropped down to see if any of the wires on the back of the panel have melted into each other ,
a bright light and some digging are needed to do this check disconnect the battery first.
NOTE wires on the CE panel that have seen heat will have a satin sheen to them instead of the matte gray finish
Swapping in a new ig switch should also be tried AFTER the CE panel has been inspected
Car is Running! John Speake & Stan get the award! Your advice was was right on the money. After 7 years of bad idling, a couple of intake refreshes, idle stabilizers and running issues from day one of ownership to presently no spark/no start: He went through the relay panel and found a KICK DOWN RELAY IN THE #20 POSITION. IT IS A 5 SPEED CAR!!!!!!!!!!!! He removed it and connected everything back up. STARTED RIGHT UP & IDLED PERFECTLY!!!! WTF! Amplifiers cool. The mystery is why there was a relay for the kick down on a 5 speed car.
But.................Put the cover back on the CE panel & no start. Wiggled the wiring harness at the EZK fired up. Wiggled again......stalled. He was inspecting all the terminals and wiring to find the intermittent connection either on the wiring harness or EZK. Will report findings.
OK. Issue solved. The connector had 2 pins that were bent and spread apart. See photo. Starts & runs well. Buttoned up and 7 years of running issues seemed to have disappeared. Thanks to everyone who made suggestions to get this issue solved. Rennlist Rocks!
The relay installed in the kick down # 20 position (for an automatic) on a Manual Tranny car was just the beginning... That was the primary problem, but only PART of the problem. The EZK muliti-pin connector was damaged internally with a few connectors bent so badly they were not making much, if any, contact with the pins. This made symptoms come & go and identifying the root cause of multiple problems very difficult. Mike posted the exact pin locations with pics above.
Once the connectors were straightened out and the multi-pin connector plugged back in correctly, the car started, idled, and ran flawlessly... THANK THE LORD!!! I mean, who looks INSIDE the multi-pin connector? We could not have figured it out without you guys redirecting our search and prodding us into rechecking everything AGAIN... and AGAIN. Stan, Bob, John & others and Roger Tyson answering the phone on a SATURDAY is what makes the 928 community GREAT! It's always the simple things that drive you crazy!
The 928 Buckeye Landsharks thank you all as this was a group effort!!! Randy, the car owner, is the first guy to volunteer & help other club members during tech sessions, timing belts, water pumps, motor mounts, wiring headlights, fuel pumps, etc... you name it. He finally has his car's issues sorted out and it's a big sigh of relief!! It was a real mess, electrically, when he bought it and he's slowly but surely been sorting it out...
Really can't thank you guys enough for this last nugget of 928 JOY!!!
Mike, thanks! I have a spare set of 1986.5 auto LH and EZF computers I bought from Stan. When I do the Porken S300s chip set upgrade, I will thoroughly inspect all the connectors.
This photo will be remembered.
04-04-2017, 12:15 AM
