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Old 03-20-2017, 05:20 PM   #1
awilli6
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Default FS - FIRE DAMAGED 1987 S4 Auto

For Sale – 1987 S4, Automatic, Black on Black, 146K miles ($6K Firm) (FIRE DAMAGE)!
This car was involved in an engine fire last Aug/Sep timeframe. The rubber parts on the engine were destroyed. In addition, the driver’s side fender and hood were also destroyed. Since the fire, I have relocated (USAF) from Memphis to Alexandria, Virginia. I had the car towed here with the intention of putting it back together.
I have pulled the engine and it’s currently on a stand with the compressor, alternator and power steering pump and intake pulled. I haven’t removed the front items yet (cam covers, WP/TB etc.). Only the rubber parts on the top of the engine were destroyed. The compressor hoses, upper and lower coolant hoses and the oil cooler hoses, radiator were not damaged. The power steering hose was melted. I haven’t begun to clean the engine or the parts that were removed yet. I’m convinced that the only things that were damaged were the rubber bits.
I have purchased over $1K in used parts from 928 Int during the ½ off sale last year. They include
• Engine, alternator, headlight harnesses
• Fan Shroud (I pulled the motors/blades from the old one) the area that attaches to the intake tubes were damaged
• Brake booster with master cylinder
• Coolant take with sender
• Fuel rail covers
• Air filter Top & Bottom
• hood and fender (still at 928 Int), you will have to pay to have them shipped to you
• + Other parts that I thought needed to be affected. I spoke with a gentleman from 928 Int and he helped me add items I may need.
This engine will need a MAF. The electrical connection was damaged during the fire.
Receipts of all service performed by PO (Memphis Motor Werks) and all receipts of the items I purchased (all from Roger) and put on during my ownership since Nov 2011. I am the 3rd owner. The first owner only kept it for 2 years, the second kept it from 1989 – Nov 2011 and then me.
• 18” 911 Speedline by Turbo Wheels (will need rear rubber, front rubber has 400 miles on them) – purchased by the PO for $5K (receipt provided)
• Momo Steering Wheel
• Compressor was purchased from Roger during the summer of 2016
• Complete tool set
• NO Compressor
• Window, sunroof and electronic seat motors all worked prior to the fire. The rear hatch motor worked but would not release the hatch. I couldn’t figure out what to adjust to get it to release.
• 4 original wheels
• Fender covers
• X – Pipe with RMB ( I have the original rear muffler and catalytic converts)
• Starter is about 2 years old (Roger)
• PK Clamp on drive shaft
• PORKEN LH chip to include the original chip
• Seats show their wear (driver’s bolster and passenger butt area)
• Pod has a crack.
Here is the thing. You have to schedule pickup or actually pickup everything. When I say everything, I mean you will get the brand new 2 – ton engine hoist, and 750 lb engine stand and all of the above parts and anything else 928 I may have laying around. I did the top end refresh about three years ago with TB/WP/Porken tensioner. It is due another TB change (not WP). I put about 40K miles on it since that work. This was not a garage queen. I drove it from Memphis to DC and back about 6 times. Knoxville, San Antonio, Little Rock etc.). Prior to the fire, she was running perfectly.
Why am I getting out? As Clint Eastwood once said, “A man’s got to know his limitations”. I'm sure I can get the car put back together but I FEAR that something electrical will be missed and I know nothing about electrics (couldn’t tell you what a meter reading of any kind means.. I have a medical background)

If you are looking at getting a low cost, well maintained (prior to the fire) car that you will only have to put minimal $$s into (sensor, temp II sensors, fuel damper, injectors, etc) to get up and running, this is the car for you.
I purchased the car back from the Insurance Co. They totaled it. The Title hasn’t been stamped Salvage but they did total it. Let me know your thoughts. See the attached pictures.

OH! The Jump Post Cover was also melted… All nuts, bolts, clamps, etc. for the items that were removed are in labeled baggies (ala Dewayne)
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:25 PM   #2
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:34 PM   #3
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Old 03-20-2017, 05:53 PM   #4
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The brown spot on the side of the engine on pics 8 & 9 is where I removed a dirt ball.
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Old 03-20-2017, 08:52 PM   #5
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Just my thoughts. There are a lot a unknowns. Is the frame warp damaged? Is the engine block warped from the heat? The main reason insurance companies total fire cars, are because of the unknowns. You could fix everything you see and still have another 50% to go cost wise. Are the suspension bits true? Probably not. is the front shock and spring up to spec? Probably not. heat does some funny things to metal, as you can see from the fender. Fires are a bear to clean up from. Labor costs/times could easily eclipse the cost of the parts. Just food for thought. I think 6K is double what any reasonable person would pay.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:17 PM   #6
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Good feedback. I understand the possibilities of further damage. I'm going off of what I see. I can't see how the fram would be warped. Fire on the top with exception of fender. Driver's shock will need replacing. I have the plastic wheel well liners. All shocks were replaced last spring.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:25 PM   #7
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I would assume the whole drivers suspension would need to be replaced just for safety reasons. It doesn't take much heat to warp metal or cause it to loose it's strength. Because the fire was in the engine bay and the fender area, then the heat/fire had to go through the front drivers frame structure. And then from the buyer's viewpoint, we haven't even touched on the transmission/torque tube. You know the car, but a buyer doesn't. There is a lot of risk. There was a guy on here years ago that bought a GT that had been in a fire. I think he paid $50 for it. Now that is on the extreme low side for sure.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:39 PM   #8
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$50 bucks. That's beyond low. He probably would have paid someone to take it. Nothing was wrong with tranny & TT before the fire and it didn't cause any damage to that area. No reason for me to believe they are not in the shape they were before the fire. The fire didn't even burn the tire on the driver's side. I would change the shock & A arm to be safe. I thought it was in worse shape before I pulled the engine. If I get no takers, I'll repair it and get expensive help with the electrics if needed.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:43 PM   #9
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Did you ever get a cause for the fire? Was it power steering hose? Fuel leak?
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:44 PM   #10
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I think power steering hose.
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Old 03-20-2017, 09:46 PM   #11
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I take that back. I smelled fuel the morning it happened. I thought it was from a fill up I had done the night before. I was headed out of town that morning.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:16 PM   #12
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Did the fire department put it out with water?

If so, what did you do immediately after to get the water out of the intake, the cylinders, and the crankcase?

I made this mistake with Van's car. I thought it would been fine and told him not to worry about it. By the time the engine got here and we got it out, the water had ruined two of the cylinders and rusted several valves. Big mistake.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregBBRD View Post
Did the fire department put it out with water?

If so, what did you do immediately after to get the water out of the intake, the cylinders, and the crankcase?

I made this mistake with Van's car. I thought it would been fine and told him not to worry about it. By the time the engine got here and we got it out, the water had ruined two of the cylinders and rusted several valves. Big mistake.
Greg, sounds like, from his description, he purchased another motor also so that shouldn't kill the deal.
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:24 PM   #14
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A good chassis sans motor without fire damage...is about $4500, or thats what I sold my 88 S4, auto 2.54 gears, lsd, new front lca's, shocks, bay hoses, etc..etc..etc..
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Old 03-20-2017, 10:47 PM   #15
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Greg,

Thanks for the info. They used water. I did not do anything to remove the water. I'm assuming you are saying the water would enter where the MAF goes? I was planning a head gasket replacement. Now looks like I may need to get someone to go further.

I did not buy a different engine. I just bought all of the engine bits that were damaged to include all of the wiring harnesses. If I don't get any takers, I'll continue with my repairs. When I take the heads off, I'll know more. If rusted and damaged to the point where it's beyond my repair skills (I'm done at headgasket), I'll part it out. I know it costs thousands to deal with the bottom end of the engine.
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