ShawTurnage1988

Not sure Glen on how long it was sitting. Ya it took every ounce of muscle to spin the disk to take the bolts off. Have to order the special tool for the flywheel, so not sure on that one yet.

Guy

Looks like you already have the updated clutch arm, which is good

Machine the surfaces, reline the clutches, good to go (fingers crossed)

hacker-pschorr

WOW - that is only ugly clutch, unfortunately that is about what I expected to see in there.

Can it be salvaged? If you know a local machine shop, maybe stop in with the intermediate disc & flywheel and see what they say. However, as I mentioned above, even if the surfaces are salvaged I'd always be concerned that intermediate disc is past it's useful life. If those adjustment springs start to get jammed, the will clutch fail to disengage.
Some have had success pinning the disc so it stops floating.

The intermediate flywheel rides on springs to keep it separated from the discs when disengaged. There are adjustment "T's" connected to the springs so you can set the resting point. The idea is as the clutch discs wear, the clutch will self re-center to make up for the thinning friction surface. The problem starts when those adjustment pins stick in one direction which will cause the clutch to hang up. Pinning this in the resting spot with new discs works but eliminates the future wear adjustment.

Some feel this built in wear adjustment is typical German over-engineering. By the time the discs are worn that much to warrant adjustment, they probably need to be replaced anyway.
Another train of thought is the adjustments are there to account for variances in parts since no two clutch packs will have a 100% identical resting spot and a couple millimeters makes a huge difference.

Both systems work fine, if you are forced to replace everything anyway the single disc conversion may be cheaper and will have one less possible headache down the road.

Some may point out the increased power handling of the double disc, however the GT / GTS engines never had an issue with the stock single disc and it takes a plethora of modifications to build a 16V which will surpass those engines.

Resale could be an issue, some may not like the idea of doing away with the stock arrangement simply for originality, while others may see it as a welcome upgrade.


Regardless of how they feel, no way I would re-use either bearing.

ROG100

I have a question about moving to a single disc setup.
From where I am sitting in the parts World that is a much more expensive option.
Assuming the release arm is the later updated type the TOB is circa $400.
A new guide tube is $70 and a pressure plate is circa $600.
The clutch plate is circa $300 so maybe a saving there.

Providing the intermediate plate can be skimmed the clutch discs look OK.
May just need a pressure plate and TOB insert.

GlenL

If it were mine, I'd clean up the surfaces with some scotchbrite pads and look at the condition. I'd be hoping to just put it all back and see if it worked, or worked at all.

Special interest points are how well the discs slide on the intermediate shaft and smooth turning of the throw-out bearing.

Guy

My 79 sat for 14 years. My clutch looked worse than yours. My discs were shredded. I was able to have the intermediate plate and flywheel machined and the discs relined for under 400 dollars

Just an option.

Terence

Is this still the current situation for early cars? I am pulling apart the clutch on an early 78. US #00079 production date 12/77 My pivot ball seems perfect but is the original metal on metal configuration.

GregBBRD

If this is the original clutch, this is not a job I would wish on someone not extremely familiar with the changes, over the years.
Many supercessions, from your very early clutch. (I think that the only piece that hasn't changed is the pressure plate....including (probably) the clutch short shaft, the coupler, and the torque tube shaft.
There's a good review of some of the changes in the Workshop Manual, but does not cover all the differences in the very early vehicles.
Once you get it apart, you will need to determine what you can re-use and what you need.
Changing one piece will definitely affect others.

For instance, if you have the original T/O arm with the fragile pointed pivot piece, you will want to change that.
This requires a new pivot ball (which you need to remove the bell housing to remove the original pivot piece and then drill and tap the housing for the latest version, a new T/O arm, a new T/O arm plastic bushing, a new T/O bearing, and a new T/O bearing collar.
(Porsche has remade the T/O bearing, no longer requiring a rebuild on a worn out T/O bearing.)

If the discs are worn out, you will need new discs....and the latest rear disc has a longer hub on it, than the original. (The original disc with the "short" hub is no longer available and all of the "rebuilt" discs are...well, have their own issues. A rear disc with a longer hub will require a longer clutch short shaft, and if you have the very early "short" clutch shaft, new coupler, and a different torque tube shaft.

All of the supercessions were made to make the clutch release better and to be smoother.
Because people did not know what they were doing, or "cut corners", most "1st clutch" replacements did not release completely....
which destroyed the synchros and reverse gears.

This is why most all of these early transmissions needed synchros by 80,000 miles (or about 5,000 to 10,000 miles after the "1st clutch" replacement.)

The best suggestion I can make....do it correct the first time.
When you are done, if you can't engage reverse gear, without grinding, with-in 2-3 seconds....don't mess around.
Do it over, again, and fix it until it does release properly and quickly.