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I was quoted 549.00 for the unit and 50 per each knock sensor, so 649.00 The biggest question was where to put both the sensors on the block. I reached out to Louis Ott . Here is what he sent me.
" I did use the J&S system on my '90GT that used an ECU different than the LH & EZ-K module. I did a lot of testing to find a good location for the knock sensors. I really wanted to use only one knock sensor, but in the end I saw where two gave the best detection. The best location is right where Porsche has them mounted. I don't know if the S3 block would have the two sensor bosses already in. On the S4 blocks they are in the bottom of the V on a flat surface that is cast there. Putting the sensor on the cyl head anywhere isn't good because there is too much mechanical noise from the valves. The sensors also can be put on the outside of the block, but I just don't remember if there is a good solid mounting point. If I mounted the sensors anywhere but the center of the block, I'd lose sensitivity from simulated knocks on the other side, or at the extreme front or back of the engine. The J&S has just one input for the knock sensors and I did a lot of testing to figure out how to use two sensors. In the end, I put both sensor outputs together at the sensor input. Connected them in parallel. That reduced the output, but the J&S has an input control and it has plenty of range to work with the lowered output. "
Does the Vampire only work on 85/86, or all 32 valve models? How much was it Dave? I couldn't find any pricing info, short of emailing for a quote.
I use the Vampire on my Twin Screw and its the bees knees. I paid $625 or so
John the owner sent me the wiring schematic for the ignition hookup and I used stock 928 knock sensor and location. I run 10-11 lbs of boost reliably
and have the Vampire take out timing with boost increase as well as individual retard per cylinder if knock is detected. I also wired in a MAF sensor so I can datalog boost with the Sharktuner.
The S3 block has 3 casting plugs down the center of the V, like the S4, however you need to either convert them to look like the Plugs used in an S4 or source S4 plugs from a damaged S4 block. I've done both.
I have one installed in the center hole for the SC'ed car, and use the forward most hole when running the Stock Intake (they won't fit anywhere else).
Interesting to think about using two in parallel as Louis Ott suggests, wasn't planning on it, however I may consider it before installing the SC.
OBehave, are you running two or one Knock sensors, and is that w/ the Factory ECU's?
I have 1 in center hole and I am using stock computers and factory Ignition timing. I also have the air temp sensor in air filter under right front fender.
Ed
I thought I would post this here given it's related to sorting my troubled turbo. Pulled the LZF and LH computers and was going to put the tuned chips in from Pele. During the pull found more shoddy wiring I'll have to sort. I also need someone look at the computer photos and let me know if they see anything out of place. I thought the replacement chips would need to be pushed into a socket of sorts. Will I need to de solder and re-solder? I, so I'm in trouble and I'll have to take it to someone as my soldering skills suck.
Decided to start a few minor turbo tasks while taking a break from pin removal from drivers side LCA and e break from the hub carrier (My initial thread about this car) https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...rom-texas.html
Disconnected the MAF. What to put in the place of the missing piping? More Purosil? Weld stainless? I'll probably go with Purosil, as I may end up tearing it all out and putting it in the front.
Seems like a bad place for all these parts for highway speeds (Rocks).
Lesson; "Never buy a turbo kit with a brain injury."
Any of you rear turbo guys out there?
Need a MAF screen. Saw a thread about the honeycomb in the MAF? any thoughts on this for a turbo?
I guess the new pump is too efficient, as I have new leak at the turbo oil feed fittings. The old pump must have been too wimpy.
I use the Vampire on my Twin Screw and its the bees knees. I paid $625 or so
John the owner sent me the wiring schematic for the ignition hookup and I used stock 928 knock sensor and location. I run 10-11 lbs of boost reliably
and have the Vampire take out timing with boost increase as well as individual retard per cylinder if knock is detected. I also wired in a MAF sensor so I can datalog boost with the Sharktuner.
Thanks for the info OBehave. So you're running both the Sharktuner and the Vampire?
Cpayne, that is some ugly work on the boards but to me it looks like the "burning" on the board substrate was done on the removal. The actual solder joints look ok from your pic.
Get some circuit board cleaner (alcohol) and wipe it down with a cotton swab, that should remove the brown stuff, then inspect whats under it.
I'm picking up a Vampire from "Eman" it came w/ a car he purchased and was never installed
I wouldn't think you would "run" with the Shark Tuner, but run with it for tuning then burning the chips per the map you want to keep, the Vampire would however stay in-place for continued Knock control.
Get some circuit board cleaner (alcohol) and wipe it down with a cotton swab, that should remove the brown stuff, then inspect whats under it.
I'm picking up a Vampire from "Eman" it came w/ a car he purchased and was never installed
I wouldn't think you would "run" with the Shark Tuner, but run with it for tuning then burning the chips per the map you want to keep, the Vampire would however stay in-place for continued Knock control.
Dave K
Sorry, that's what I meant Dave, but not what I typed. LOL. I should have said utilizing both technologies. I was just surprised because I thought that the timing/fueling was already taken care of by proper sharktuning so that you were always in a safe zone, short of a catastrophic failure of the fuel system causing a lean condition.
Well IMO Shark tuning like any tuning method depends on grade of fuel and Atmospheric conditions right.
Both of which our out of our control and can change the tune, so w/o a knock controller it is safer to take that into account, so rule of thumb is to tune toward the safe side, the knock controller lets you go more aggressive with the actual burned chips as I see it.
03-23-2017, 03:10 PM
