Originally Posted by ROG100
(Post 15063077)
Currently in stock - $425 plus shipping.
The kit comes with LED bulbs but includes information on how to further upgrade them if needed. |
Originally Posted by GT6ixer
(Post 15063611)
Thanks Roger. Are the LEDs dimmable using the exiting dimmer wheel under the dash?
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I installed mine and got tips from Bryan Lutz who is a all around good guy. Beware the electrics in our decades old cars. They need some love to interface well with the modern circuit boards. I have a perfect foil if someone needs a working gauge and can not spend $425. Great product... |
Any updates on these? How well do the board edge connectors work with the factory wiring harness?
Maybe a voltage controlled LED dimming driver could be patched in? Seems like the early issues are worked out and maybe its time for group buy to get the numbers up. |
Originally Posted by danglerb
(Post 15665065)
Any updates on these? How well do the board edge connectors work with the factory wiring harness?
Maybe a voltage controlled LED dimming driver could be patched in? Seems like the early issues are worked out and maybe its time for group buy to get the numbers up. Connection to the factory harness has not been an issue at all. We added LED's to replicate the ambiance of the original lighting and work with the original dimmer. If you want to add brighter LED's and a dimmer to match you can. We also sell the boards for the early 78 cars as well. |
Originally Posted by GT6ixer
(Post 15063611)
Thanks Roger. Are the LEDs dimmable using the exiting dimmer wheel under the dash?
Originally Posted by Petza914
(Post 15063623)
No, the resistance is wrong, but Ed makes a module that will dim the LEDs. For it to work well, you'll need all the interior lights to all be LEDs (HVAC, aux gauges, etc)
Originally Posted by ROG100
(Post 15665491)
...We added LED's to replicate the ambiance of the original lighting and work with the original dimmer...
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Hi Nate,
Unfortunately, and no disrespect, Petza914 is not correct (and as far as I know does not have one of our kits) about the dimmer with the LED's as supplied - see post #7. Remember our goal was to emulate the original lighting and not super bright as some folks want. Instructions include info on how to upgrade to "BRIGHT" led's and also enhance the brightness of the the cluster. Also, and above, starting at Post #47 it shows how to increase the brightness by changing the LED bulbs and adding a dimmer. No idea about other bulbs but if you use our stock kit nothing else needs changing. If you change to brighter LEDs I do not know the effect on other bulbs. Roger |
Originally Posted by ROG100
(Post 15666159)
Hi Nate,
Unfortunately, and no disrespect, Petza914 is not correct (and as far as I know does not have one of our kits) about the dimmer with the LED's as supplied - see post #7. Remember our goal was to emulate the original lighting and not super bright as some folks want. Instructions include info on how to upgrade to "BRIGHT" led's and also enhance the brightness of the the cluster. Also, and above, starting at Post #47 it shows how to increase the brightness by changing the LED bulbs and adding a dimmer. No idea about other bulbs but if you use our stock kit nothing else needs changing. If you change to brighter LEDs I do not know the effect on other bulbs. Roger Currently I'm bypassing the dimmer until I can change all the other bulbs to LEDs. |
Originally Posted by ROG100
(Post 15666159)
Hi Nate,
Unfortunately, and no disrespect, Petza914 is not correct (and as far as I know does not have one of our kits) about the dimmer with the LED's as supplied - see post #7. Remember our goal was to emulate the original lighting and not super bright as some folks want. Instructions include info on how to upgrade to "BRIGHT" led's and also enhance the brightness of the the cluster. Also, and above, starting at Post #47 it shows how to increase the brightness by changing the LED bulbs and adding a dimmer. No idea about other bulbs but if you use our stock kit nothing else needs changing. If you change to brighter LEDs I do not know the effect on other bulbs. Roger |
I just installed a LUTZ Automotive hard circuit board in my '83 928...I got tired of messing with the 'X-Ray Film' circuit foil....Very nice item....Now my speedometer goes to 40 MPH on start-up & stays there. I have NO Tach., Temp, Oil pressure or Voltage gauge reading....All the warning lights go on when I turn the key & all of them go off except Brake lamps & brake fluid....At least my Fuel Gauge works now...It seems that because of the added thickness of the hard-board, the black plastic clips don't engage the contacts on the back of the gauges...I modified the clips by adding some Aluminium tubing to extend the contact pins ( see Pics)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f3ec3bc331.jpg Normal clips on the right, Extended one on the left...Let's see how it goes. Anyone have an idea why the speedo ( That worked with the Film circuit,) Suddenly reads 40 ?? A bad ground somewhere, Maybe....I AM getting faster taking it apart, Nothing like practice...LOL |
Instead of putting the whole pod back together, you can save time testing. Just plug in the instrument cluster into its 3 plugs and leave it sitting on top of a towel then go for a test drive. As for the nonfunctional gauges, assuming they all worked before, it's more likely than not a connection issue with one of those three connectors, or possibly an issue with how the boards are installed into the back of the gauges. I little sleuthing with an ohmmeter will tell you -- test connectivity from the car side of the connector, follow the trace you're testing, and test where it ends up at a gauge for connectivity. Did you use DeOxit? Did you inspect the three big connectors to make sure that none of the little contacts inside are bent? Triple check the instructions to make sure you've got everything installed correctly. Also check with Roger as to those standoffs and in fact all your issues. I'm going to assume that if nobody else has had issues, which Roger will know, then I would be very hesitant to go making any changes. What's that black fuzzy stuff in your picture? If that's dirt then clean everything, this is definitely an area where surgical cleanliness is a Good Thing. One final note -- the speedo repair guy I took mine to (Palo Alto Speedometer) mentioned that the capacitor(s) do fail over time. I have no idea if that can cause the issue you're seeing, but as a general matter, now that you are taking it out again you should have it tested and calibrated if you haven't done so already, and they'll change out any old electronic components. It'll be good to go for decades. Good luck!!
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Originally Posted by STRIKEMASTER
(Post 16923976)
I just installed a LUTZ Automotive hard circuit board in my '83 928...I got tired of messing with the 'X-Ray Film' circuit foil....Very nice item....Now my speedometer goes to 40 MPH on start-up & stays there. I have NO Tach., Temp, Oil pressure or Voltage gauge reading....All the warning lights go on when I turn the key & all of them go off except Brake lamps & brake fluid....At least my Fuel Gauge works now...It seems that because of the added thickness of the hard-board, the black plastic clips don't engage the contacts on the back of the gauges...I modified the clips by adding some Aluminium tubing to extend the contact pins ( see Pics)
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f3ec3bc331.jpg Normal clips on the right, Extended one on the left...Let's see how it goes. Anyone have an idea why the speedo ( That worked with the Film circuit,) Suddenly reads 40 ?? A bad ground somewhere, Maybe....I AM getting faster taking it apart, Nothing like practice...LOL |
That's weird. I had the Lutz Boards in my 81 Euro S and they worked perfectly.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0833fffda2.jpg |
Originally Posted by Petza914
(Post 18215231)
That's weird. I had the Lutz Boards in my 81 Euro S and they worked perfectly.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0833fffda2.jpg |
Bryan Lutz is an amazing electrical engineer.
Kdruva - I have passed your emails to him. He will get back to you and try and help. |
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