GeorgeM

The hi temp engine paint in gray primer that they stock at your local auto parts store works well for this and resembles the original color closely enough. Three coats is enough to handle several cleanings (with something stronger than car wash soap) before you have to apply a touch up coat.

WallyP

Smooth grooves in the rotors just increase surface area...

Imo000

You should see the rotors that I regularly put new pads. Yours sound mint condition compared to what I do. As long as you understand why in bedding them is important and do it properly (taking it easy for a few days, they will form to the old rotors without any issues. Worry less drive more.

hacker-pschorr

We never have time to do this at the track, we toss on pads between sessions and mid-race. Go out, few high speeds stops...good to go.
On that note, it's a lot of fun changing brake pads on a race car on pit lane that just finished setting a record lap with no cool down. First time ever I wished we brought welding gloves to the track.

EBC pads have an extra friction material to speed up bed-in. Warm them up too fast they burst into flames. Very pretty on a foggy morning. Still worked great over the next 60k+ miles.

Randy V

The standard accepted bed-in procedure is to do 6 hard braking stops from 40 mph to zero, then run a bit to cool the rotors.

Imo000

Yes, if the rotors are fairly flat, otherwise the pads can easily crack.

I've put new pads on some real POS rotors in the past (no on a Porsche) and they did well, just had to refrain from hard stopping for a few days. Drove around the countryside and slowly wore them into the groves of the those rotors. Once they take the shape of the rotor they are good to go.

Need4S

Bed your brakes!

https://www.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=6446_6443

andy-gts

I always wondered,,,,,there is certainly more surface contact area with ridges rather than glass smooth on the rotors, so I have never turned rotors, if really bad then just replaced rotors but that is rare.....

Speedtoys

Ya, but the goal is to set a pad with a fresh surface..its not just surface friction. its pad material as PART of the rotor surface.

Ridges will burn the pad in high areas when its new and not 'mated' and not give you the life and stiction you should expect from them.

If you have a pad material that, IMHO, isn't rotor abrasive, hit it with 200Grit wheel, and slap in new pads if the pads are the same as what came out.



But if it's not a generally flat surface, make it flat.

To the proper extreme, always mate new pads with NEW rotors. Turning rotors mates well, but its a significant loss of mass to absorb energy. This is my path, unless racecar that needs a quick glazing problem removed really fast.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

They even have a name for changing pads only. It's called a "pad slap". You are not the first and won't be the last.
Good luck,
Dave

928 GT R

It is insane to change brake pads without doing a full frame off restoration! What on earth are you thinking?

When changing brake pads, strip the entire chassis, acid dip it, re-galvanize it, and start from this point.