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Going to get my 85 from Texas

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Old 02-26-2017, 10:16 PM
  #91  
SeanR
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Originally Posted by cpayne
I paid over 11 K for all the work. Not including the powder coating I paid to Legends. (Great Deal Worth every penny) Including a top end refresh. Car runs like crap. I feel like I lost 5K. Don't get me wrong. Some of the work is really good, and I believe Mark to be a good person, and he did have some personal stuff that affected his finances and the timeline, but we all have stuff to deal with. If you agree to something and put a price on it as we did and I pay you your asking price,then I should get what I paid for.

Here is our project sheet I drew up when we agreed to the work in 2013.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SH...DeGECrs42O17s8
Oh I agree with ya man, and feel your pain. I'll look at the list for ya an reply off line tomorrow and if there's anyway I can help you I will.
Old 02-27-2017, 10:45 AM
  #92  
Mrmerlin
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he works cheap,
looks like you have a few gremlins to chase,
we can assist you,
take pictures and provide as much info as possible,
your machine should be running great soon.
Old 02-27-2017, 04:52 PM
  #93  
cpayne
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
he works cheap,
looks like you have a few gremlins to chase,
we can assist you,
take pictures and provide as much info as possible,
your machine should be running great soon.
Mark contacted me and told me he may have overfilled the coolant and it could be leaking from the overflow. Seems to be from that area. May be me playing chicken little. Not sure why it overheated though.

I think Dr Bob says it best "Most projects are about managing expectations on both sides. Obviously we didn't have a meeting of the minds on this project. Maybe I fantasized a bit too much about how the car would perform. Don't get me wrong. 4 years is way too long and I should have only paid at the end of the project.

With the lists help and with Marks help , I'm sure we will sort all the bugs.
The MAF and TPS checked out. He thinks the ECU may need a rebuild.
Old 02-27-2017, 04:57 PM
  #94  
Mrmerlin
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usual failure with the ECU is that the Idle control system will not shut off when bridging the b/c pins,
this due to running the system with a failed / jammed idle control unit this burns out the diodes.
ICV is a wear item on the 85 86 32V cars
Old 02-28-2017, 02:05 PM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Looks like I typed the same info twice about the PC.

on the PC issue you also need to remove the coated area where the water bridge attaching bolts seat ,
or you wont have a solid ground.

NOTE cleaning the mating surface of the sensor is one part of the issue.

Otherwise put a ground wire into one of the bracket holes to a bolt on the engine .

Where is the coolant leaking from?
Where is the rack leaking from?

FWIW since you know you have,
a leaking power steering system,
a possible overheating issue,
and a running rich condition,
and an otherwise unproven piece of machinery,
it would be wise to not let the car sit and idle while your washing your hair ,
or making peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for your tailgate party
Subscribing....but need to go back to read the details.
Miss those phone dials on my old/former Euro!
Seems like you could ohm out the sensor and then the wire or gauge to see whether the PC interrupting ground is an issue?
Could always try an interim supplemental ground strap, to see if that helps.

Oil at the AN fitting- could be just snug that up, I didn't see anything up on the scroll of the turbo. Though in the vid it did look like the oil pan gasket was pinched out in one spot, if that is seeping it might end up on the low hanging hardware in back.
I thought that the Speake chips needed to be tuned on the car, unless he is providing John with chips already mapped for the turbo application? Seems like a pretty narrow market that could have a wide range of needs to cover.

Last edited by SMTCapeCod; 02-28-2017 at 03:38 PM.
Old 02-28-2017, 03:07 PM
  #96  
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do that testing both cold and hot
Old 02-28-2017, 07:58 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by SMTCapeCod
Subscribing....but need to go back to read the details.
Miss those phone dials on my old/former Euro!
Seems like you could ohm out the sensor and then the wire or gauge to see whether the PC interrupting ground is an issue?
Could always try an interim supplemental ground strap, to see if that helps.

Oil at the AN fitting- could be just snug that up, I didn't see anything up on the scroll of the turbo. Though in the vid it did look like the oil pan gasket was pinched out in one spot, if that is seeping it might end up on the low hanging hardware in back.
I thought that the Speake chips needed to be tuned on the car, unless he is providing John with chips already mapped for the turbo application? Seems like a pretty narrow market that could have a wide range of needs to cover.
Yeah mark says he tend to under tighten, so it probably needs to be tighten a smidge.
Apparently John has been making his chips since Mark started his turbo. One of the items he priced was chip sets and dyno. He said he put the chipset in, but didn't dyno. I have reached out to him about the chips.
Old 02-28-2017, 11:15 PM
  #98  
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Did some general cleaning and started on the grounds. The grounds photo found in searching the list is for an 87. I'm wondering if 85 cars have the same grounds as I can't find the grounds aft of the front shock towers?






I also found an old hornets nest on the radiator.


I treated some rusty bits. During the hunt for grounds I found this plug that seems to be related to the AC, does anyone know what its for?


Old 02-28-2017, 11:38 PM
  #99  
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where do these wires originate the car side of the harness or the sensor
Old 03-01-2017, 12:25 AM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
where do these wires originate the car side of the harness or the sensor
Looks like its coming from the sensor. I circled where the wiring inserts into the sensors.

Old 03-01-2017, 03:24 PM
  #101  
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Video of the leaks, looks like I have one at the rear right corner of the oil pan. Another near the drivers side edge. I'll check the torque on the OPG and see if that stops the leak. Can't find the path of the other leak near the rear of the drivers side tire.

Old 03-01-2017, 06:18 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by cpayne
Looks like its coming from the sensor. I circled where the wiring inserts into the sensors.

Stan (and others) can provide a more authoritative answer, but I think the wires are for the refrigerant pressure switch. There should be two pairs that connect together and are secured by a clip above the condenser. Looking a little lower, there are wires with the same terminals connected up with a fused union. Looks like an approach to hot-wire the aux fan and/or bypass the pressure switch.

And...are there no fasteners on the underhood part of the front bumper cover?
Old 03-01-2017, 06:20 PM
  #103  
cpayne
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
usual failure with the ECU is that the Idle control system will not shut off when bridging the b/c pins,
this due to running the system with a failed / jammed idle control unit this burns out the diodes.
ICV is a wear item on the 85 86 32V cars
Merlin thank you in advance, If you don't mind, please do explain b/c pins. I assume I can build a bridge with wire and spades or clips. Once I bridge ,what will I be looking for to rule out bad ECU? I plan on testing tomorrow.
Old 03-01-2017, 06:29 PM
  #104  
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There is a better illustration somewhere- but b/c refers to pins in the diagnostic connection, the round black plastic terminal left of water bridge etc.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post4971266
Old 03-01-2017, 07:01 PM
  #105  
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Originally Posted by SMTCapeCod
There is a better illustration somewhere- but b/c refers to pins in the diagnostic connection, the round black plastic terminal left of water bridge etc.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post4971266
Is this it ? has two pins.



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