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Really simple, under no boost they do nothing. As boost is applied the diaphragm chokes off the return fuel line increasing pressure which causes the stock injectors to spray more fuel.
I'm assuming they work just as well in a turbo application, since I've only used them with superchargers.
A proper Shark Tune is the way to go. The only reason why I would go the FMU route today is with L-Jet cars since the only other option is a 3rd party ECU.
I have since converted my 81 to EuroS LH/EZF which is essentially the same as the 85/86 brains in your car. Shark Tuned and running with 42lb injectors and increased fuel pressure over the stock arrangement (using an S4 regulator).
I want to go the safe route ,so to be safe looks like a Shark Tuner it is.
Did the testing hot and cold cold no change hot idle goes up not down. According to the threads on this topics the idle should go down if its working.
Ready to adjust the idle, but in the manual and John Speake in the thread says to adjust the CO first then idle speed. From what I can read it requires a special hose and a gauge. Do I make these tools?
you need a blinkr to set the O2,
maybe someone will lend you one or Porken will make a few more./
NOTE you can also use your nose, smell the exhaust you can smell when its getting close
turn the MAF down to see if you can lean it out ,
once your nose test is ok then try setting the idle with the screw .
NOTE before you do any MAF adjusting take a OHM reading at the computer connector.
you may find it will run best at about 175 OHMs nominal is 380 adding the larger injectors and turbo throws most of this info question
The idle should go down when the jumper is added to the test port.
it would be wise to read those links a few times,
as valuable info about setting this system can be learned from reading.
The wiring diagram is posted up on here...and the 911 plug that fits the port...I took some time with the diagram and assembled the parts but then had no luck sorting the resistor locally and eventually ran out of gumption.
As a fallback, a more course approach would be to connect a voltmeter to the factory O2 sensor.
But wait.....you already have the wideband on there....so wouldn't that do in lieu of the Blink'r??
Doesn't tell you what the LH is doing per se, but gives a read on the results...for one bank, at least...
Thanks to Killav and Pele for some great information and helping me sort this pig in a poke I was sold. Appears I'm not the only one sold a non tuned turbo kit.
I did however pay Mark (See project sheet in previous thread) to have a completely tuned turbo car to 450 HP. Didn't happen. Blast you Mr. "Robber" Son. Such a nice guy, but I don't believe a word he says.
My kit didn't include a rising rate FPR needed to even attempt to tune the car as Mark suggests and create boost with 30 Lb injectors. Other kits apparently came with some items that mine should have to even be close to complete tuned system.
The oil recirculating pump makes a horrible whining noise constantly (I was told it would die down with use). I'll need to replace that right away as this unit has failed other folks kits early on causing other turbo issues as it is a cheap unit . You can hear it in some of the videos on previous posts.
Pele offered to sell me some chips with a tight tune done with a shark tuner for an 85-86 with Marks kit and 30 Lb injectors. Thanks to Pele I may be at 500 HP before all is aid and done. I realize there are probably going to be subtle differences as all cars are not created or maintained equally, but I think this will get me very close to where I expected to be.
After all that money, I'm going to need to make some changes to complete a reliable kit.
(1) Install an 87S4 FPR
(2) Relocate the MAF from the rear of the car to its original spot.
(3) Add a boost control gauge. (Since I have about 0 chance of getting any money back on this deal. I negotiated with Mark to send me a unit in 400.00 dollar range, since he didn't perform any Dyno or tuning of his system that he agreed to do. He says he ordered it and had it sent it to my address. We shall see. At this point, I have absolutely no reason to trust he will delivery on anything we agree to.
(4) Replace the cheap oil recirculating pump with a better one.
Once I get the MAF sorted and chips in . I will sort the Idle and CO.
I do have an overheating issue that I think I should focus on before I'm ready to work on the tune. When the car sits for at least 5 minutes in traffic it will overheat even in cold weather.
Once you start rolling she cools down nicely. The bypass valve is working as the heat will run you out and you can also get cool air in. Overflow tank has fluid in it from the first episode.
I will need to get the cooling sorted, as the turbo will just make things worse. I'm reading a few thread on the topic and If I can't find a cure from those. I'll update my specifics here.
the over heat could be a few things first the cooling fan may need to have a belt check for tightness,
A new thermostat clutch may be needed dont bother with the refilling deal use new parts for max performance,
its a good idea to inspect the thermostat and swap in a new one also verify that the rear seal is good.
Mark sent the gauge as promised, so our dealings are now complete. Crying over spilled milk complete. Moving on...
Maybe a little more spilled milk. Unfortunately it looks like I'll also need to buy an inter cooler. Ordered the gear based scavage pump last night as the one supplied uses a diaphragm and cheap brushes. Going to be in for another grand or so before this is over. Mike and Pele have been great in trying to help me sort this into a workable system. Crying actually over now.....
Well we have a bit of a cold snap the last 2 days ( How Dare Mother Nature! Making it cold in the Winter.) My bones and joints ache today, so I'm not doing anything that requires me to be outside for very long.
I did notice some rust here and there and the hood and hatch struts were shot, so I decided to replace them . I removed the old ones and noticed some rust on the strut attachment ***** . I treated the rust with a little sand paper and then hit it with my favorite rust neutralizer "Navel Jelly".
The ball for hatch strut after rust treatment (Before shot was too blurry,but it was rusty)
New 100 Lb struts installed for the rear hatch and 40lb for the hood. (That hatch is heavy!) I now have a partially used hatch prop for sale that can also be used as a mop handle. Any takers?
While at it, I noticed the metal plate under the rear hatch lid was flaking paint. It looks like attempt at repainting it had been attempted in the past. I decided to strip it down and repaint it. I used a very pleasant smelling Citristrip. The results were pretty impressive. I still have a some cleaning and primer to do. Won't get to all of that today.
Hatch seal plate I think?
Citristrip
After 2 hours
Comes right off
While checking things out I also found this interesting mess.
Need a hatch insert , I found all the crumbles behind the tool carrier. On the parts order list, the whiteish round plastic part in the reciever is developing a hole in the center and seems very brittle. I'll need one of those too. (The pinkish substance on the hex bolts is Navel Jelly)
Found this relay behind the tool carrier
Found this relay in the battery box. This one goes to the current turbo oil scavange pump. I'll have to move this wiring, as the battery box and tire put pressure on that white wire that currently had electrical tape as a cushion.
I'm sorry, I just got caught up on this thread.
Objectively, I've only been around the forum for a few years...but this whole thing makes me cringe.
I've been biting my tongue, but seeing the half assed relay set up loose in the battery box just sets me off.
I think you are allowed to "cry over spilt milk", and probably more then that, if what I've been reading is true.
I get that nobody wants to saying anything disparaging about the person that did the "work", but come on. There's money and then there's cpayne's safety.
A little research about F. A. S. T. .....Forced Air Systems Texas, fills in the backstory.
My google search turns up very little information where turbos are concerned. What is see is not related to this particular kit or the its creator. Can you PM a specific link?
I'm sorry, I just got caught up on this thread.
Objectively, I've only been around the forum for a few years...but this whole thing makes me cringe.
I've been biting my tongue, but seeing the half assed relay set up loose in the battery box just sets me off.
I think you are allowed to "cry over spilt milk", and probably more then that, if what I've been reading is true.
I get that nobody wants to saying anything disparaging about the person that did the "work", but come on. There's money and then there's cpayne's safety.
Thanks for your input and consideration. I kind of felt like I was whining. I just can't believe none has said anything before now. As I said in an early post, he was going through lots of stuff shortly after he took this project on.
The only good thing about this , and this does go to his character is he made sure my car was safe, but he should have and I'm glad he did.
I paid him as he completed work in 2013 he was sending me photos completed . He said he only had two weeks to go, so I sent the last payment then all work stopped and we are here.
Several times I asked that if he couldn't finish the work, he could send me bills for the work he completed based on our agreement and cost per hour he quoted and he could stop work put the car back to the way it was and refund the balance of my money. New finish dates and times would be set,but no progress would be made and they would be missed.
What really burns me up, is that I saw videos online of him working on other 928's , and talking about the refresh and paint job he was doing on his 944 in 2015 and his boat he was going to finish in spring of 2016. I called him on it and told him I believe he has snookered me and that he stop the mess and he make my car the priority.
Nothing was mentioned to me at that time about the rich running, idle and no start when hot. He did report that two years ago he was looking at replacing the temp II (He did that the weekend I flew out) Thats when i learned all the issues were not resolved.
I found out it was moved 4 different times and the video is of us picking the car up at its last storage location , which turned out to be his fiances (Recently deceased) grandmothers home which was being prepared for sale by her heir's (Not the Fiance).
We all go through things. If you say you have business fixing cars and making products for these cars and charging me more than I make per our to perform this work,you should stand by your word and deliver.
03-03-2017, 12:57 PM
