GJB928

I'm still chasing my intermittent clutch problem from this thread

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...hat-sound.html

I've pulled the lower bellhousing to poke around and noticed that the pins where you put the special "u shaped locally sourced" tools, that relive the pressure from spring plate seem to already be raised quite a bit compared to other pics I have seen. Does this look normal?

Also once the clutch slave is removed and not providing preload to the release fork, how much should it be able to move about? Mine has a lot of movement. And BTW the release fork ball stud/bushing is fine.

granprixweiss928

When its all bolted up and in the car that gap behind the head of the pin there is normal. yes thats where you put the U shaped pins.

when the bellhousing is off and the clutch slave away there is some free play or slack in the arm, around the collar of the throwout bearing.

remember when all connected the slave (correction) PULLS the arm away the engine...opening the space up between the discs- releasing the clutch. So all that slack is non existent then.

Edit- Corrected the clutch action direction.

GJB928

Thanks Weiss. Currently I believe my clutch is adjusted perfectly. Very easy to get into first and reverse, when jacked, in first and clutch pedal depressed, I can relate the real wheels easy. So I'm hesitant to pull the clutch, but the intermittent resistance that stops the clutch halfway then the metallic sounding pop makes nervous. I know it's not going to fix itself, but want to eliminate any other possibilities first.

granprixweiss928

If you have a "feeling" in the pedal, or intermittent resistance, you could have wear on the splines of the short shaft. common if all the grease is long gone. best you remove it and inspect everything.

Must get the WSMs if you dont have them already.

jcorenman

I am not sure what this means. The test is with wheels on the ground and car stopped: From neutral with clutch out, can you push clutch in and shift into gear? Doing this with wheels jacked and wheels free to spin does not tell you whether the clutch is fully disengaging.

The key is this:

If you are meeting resistance with the clutch pedal halfway down, and stopping there, then certainly the clutch will not be fully disengaged and you will not be able to easily shift into gear.

So what is causing this resistance? If I understand correctly from your other thread, it is a not subtle-- when this happens you need to push hard and there is a metallic "twang" when the pedal does move to the floor. Is this correct? The sound is under the car, and not from the pedal assembly?

I think that eliminates everything except the pressure place. The pedal pulls the center of the pressure place, everything else floats-- the discs, the spines on the center-shaft, intermediate plate all float. If worn they can cause the clutch to not release when the pressure plate is fully released-- but that is not what is happening here.

I think you are going to need to drop the clutch and inspect everything carefully. It could be a worn guide-tube, causing the release-bearing to "catch" and bind, or it could be something wrong with the release bearing or the pressure-plate itself. And simply getting hi-temp grease where it belongs may resolve it.

GJB928

I got that test from reading another thread. This is my understanding. If you jack the rear wheels off the ground and put the car in gear, have a helper depress the clutch pedal while you try to rotate the tires, if you feel resistance or can not rotate the wheels you know that the clutch is not fully dis-engaging. Of course you are doing this with the engine off. It makes sense to me, as if the clutch is not fully disengaged it will be very difficult to impossible to turn the rear wheels by hand.

Everything you've said makes sense to me and agree I need to drop the clutch pack. Just not looking forward to it. Ugh.

Wisconsin Joe

You are right about checking the clutch, at least the way I was taught. If it's in gear, pedal down and the wheels spin, the clutch is releasing properly.

Why not looking forward to it? It's dead simple. Put the shims under the rivet heads, unbolt the TOB housing, unbolt the PP pack from the flywheel, unbolt the coupler, slide the short shaft back and the whole thing should drop out (don't drop it on your head).

WSM covers it very nicely. Maybe an hour the first time.

GJB928

Not necessarily the removal part, the reassembly/clutch adjustment part. From what I've read it's difficult to get the dual clutch setup adjusted correctly.

GJB928

Clutch removal is going smoothly. Although I found this, a missing bolt from the guide tube. I don't think it was the cause of my problem but it obviously isn't right.

GJB928

So after getting everything taken apart, it appears the the guide tube is the problem. The missing bolt on one side seems to have allowed it to flex and the release bearing would scrape on it and occasionally catch. That seems to be the only abnormal wear I can find. Maybe some wear on the PP fingers. Also there was no Molly grease on it at all.

I guess I will know when I get it all back together tomorrow.

GJB928

Question for dual disc gurus. I've seen mention of a shim used on release bearing. I don't know if it was only used in single disc applications but I've don't have a shim in my setup and can't find any mention in PET. But I can't find any mention of the Belleville spring washer either. I have the washer, Belleville spring and c-clip only. Is this correct or am I missing a shim?

Hoping to get it back together today. It's been too long.

Chris Lockhart

That's the same set-up as in my dual disc. I don't know of any other "shim" in that stack for the T/O bearing.

GJB928

Thanks Chris.

AngelP

So you've probably got all this back together and all is well, but I wanted to bring up something you mentioned in the post showing guide tube wear. Btw, I did apparently lose the write up I did for this like 19yrs ago. What I do recall is that when I did get this kit from DEVEK it required a different TO bearing, release arm and guide tube, and it specifically mentioned that no lubricant was required on the tube OD.
Hope this helps,
Angel

GJB928

Thanks for looking Angel. Yes I did get it all back together! Very smooth now and no more noise. I did make a couple of dumb mistakes in the process though. I'll mention them here so others can avoid them.

1. I marked the position of the flywheel, starter ring and intermediate plate on the front side. I didn't on the back side of the pressure plate. I read about removing the six bolts to release assembly. My screw up was removing the six bolts that hold intermediate plate to starter ring. Big mistake! Tried removing and then realized problem. I had already slid intermediate shaft back everything was loose and I couldn't get it back together. I then removed pressure plate bolts and started to get it to come down and realized I hadn't marked that side in relation to other parts. I was able to get it marked since it hadn't rotated much, but having the intermediate plate separate from starter ring and pressure plate gave me fits in removal.

2. Started cleaning clutch parts and realized they were asbestos. Put on particulate respirator and misted everything down and sealed up used rags and disposed of properly.