Most Efficient Methodology For Determining Cause of Battery Drain?
07-17-2019, 05:46 PM
#62
Chronic Tool Dropper
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The interior lights have three connections. One is from always-on battery positive (30 circuit) through a fuse. Second is grounds. Third is a "switched ground" circuit that's connected to the door and hatch switches in parallel.
The wiring goes to the various interior light fixtures in parallel, such that you can choose each lamp's function individually. The positive feed from the fuse is always connected to one end of each bulb. The rocker or slide switch chooses function.
Option 0 is no connections on the negative end of the bulb and the light is never on.
Option 1 connects the negative end of the bulb to the door switches in parallel, so that any door switch closed (door is open) will ground the negative end of the bulb, causing it to illuminate.
Option 2 connects the negative end of the bulb to ground, causing it to illuminate.
The wiring includes a section that's draped across the headliner from the front lamp between the sun visors to the rear lamp. Over time and vibration, we sometimes find that a wire wears through and grounds to the metal roof. If the always-on conductor does this, it will blow the fuse. If the door-switched conductor wears through, any lamp that is set to position 1 (the middle position) will be on continuously. The third circuit, normally grounded anyway, offers no additional symptoms if it wears through and connect to the body.
"Blows the fuse"
The wiring goes to the various interior light fixtures in parallel, such that you can choose each lamp's function individually. The positive feed from the fuse is always connected to one end of each bulb. The rocker or slide switch chooses function.
Option 0 is no connections on the negative end of the bulb and the light is never on.
Option 1 connects the negative end of the bulb to the door switches in parallel, so that any door switch closed (door is open) will ground the negative end of the bulb, causing it to illuminate.
Option 2 connects the negative end of the bulb to ground, causing it to illuminate.
The wiring includes a section that's draped across the headliner from the front lamp between the sun visors to the rear lamp. Over time and vibration, we sometimes find that a wire wears through and grounds to the metal roof. If the always-on conductor does this, it will blow the fuse. If the door-switched conductor wears through, any lamp that is set to position 1 (the middle position) will be on continuously. The third circuit, normally grounded anyway, offers no additional symptoms if it wears through and connect to the body.
"Blows the fuse"
07-18-2019, 10:48 AM
#63
Nordschleife Master
The little red lights in the back of the door are on the same circuit as the other interior lights (above mirror, doors, top & bottom of hatch).
The main difference is that the interior lights can be turned off (or always on, as DrBob describes). The little red ones can't.
The main difference is that the interior lights can be turned off (or always on, as DrBob describes). The little red ones can't.
07-18-2019, 03:35 PM
#64
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