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HIGHWAYMAN: Bringing the Devore 928 back from the dead

 
Old 12-11-2016, 08:14 PM
  #196  
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I actually used to do the oven thing back in the day until the wife put a stop to that:-)

As for the heating thing, I am only getting it warm-ish. There are reasons why I do it this way:

1. I don't like to handle 300 degree parts. It changes the nature of the operation to something that adds a whole 'nother layer of hassle.

2. The bearing is left in the freezer overnight.

3. With the tiniest amount of warmth from the torch, the bearing more or less slides in there. The press is using VERY little force. So if there is, say 10 tons of pressure required to press the old bearing out, there is a tiny fraction of that to help it back in, doing it my way.

4. Even across other Porsche models, heating the hubs is not necessarily required.

These hubs are totally overbuilt, never had a problem.
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:45 AM
  #197  
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This is a very cool thread! I recall seeing this car on Craigslist for a looooong time and always hoped somebody scooped it up. Happy to see it in CA! As for the lack of rear swaybar, that's familiar to me. I tracked a Nissan 370Z and a popular track car "mod" is taking off the rear swaybar or keeping the stock one on while buying the stiffest front you can find. The combination gets rid of a ton of oversteer that those cars are well known for. The rear suspension is allowed to flex and sort of do its mechanical job. Anyways, have a blast with the car man. I hope to see it in person someday at the track.
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Old 12-12-2016, 12:22 PM
  #198  
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+1 on MAPP, its a favorite here. The Acetylene gives the Propane a much-needed kick.
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Old 12-12-2016, 01:12 PM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by dcocci View Post
This is a very cool thread! I recall seeing this car on Craigslist for a looooong time and always hoped somebody scooped it up. Happy to see it in CA! As for the lack of rear swaybar, that's familiar to me. I tracked a Nissan 370Z and a popular track car "mod" is taking off the rear swaybar or keeping the stock one on while buying the stiffest front you can find. The combination gets rid of a ton of oversteer that those cars are well known for. The rear suspension is allowed to flex and sort of do its mechanical job. Anyways, have a blast with the car man. I hope to see it in person someday at the track.

Thanks! Really interesting to see the Z behaved in the same way.

I was telling Carl that when I did the suspension setup on the Camaro I worked with a GM engineer to fine tune the setup. The Camaro wants a MASSIVE rear sway and almost no front sway - opposite of the 928 and Z.

He told me it was this way because for safety reasons, there is a significant amount of understeer built into GM's Zeta platform.

I guess I wonder why the 928 is designed with so much oversteer built in.....
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Old 12-12-2016, 02:38 PM
  #200  
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Oversteer built in?? I'm not an expert on this stuff, but my impression was that the stock 928 had understeer. In fact, the adjustable drop-links I installed in the rear were supposed to take the understeer out I thought?

I'm not a track guy so I could be all wrong...
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Old 12-12-2016, 03:02 PM
  #201  
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Bureau...

Not a track guy either (yet), but full stiff on the front sway and full soft on the rear sway fights oversteer. So I presume that is what we are trying to cure.

Maybe some track guys can chime in?
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Old 12-12-2016, 05:13 PM
  #202  
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Yep, took the pic prematurely, seated it before the stub axle put in....
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:34 PM
  #203  
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I hope the machine runs great with any modifications or updates you make

Last edited by Mrmerlin; 12-13-2016 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 12-12-2016, 06:55 PM
  #204  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD View Post
Oh yeah, I was sure of that, before I posted!

That totally explains why the bearing is still not seated in the picture with the hub already pressed in....at which point it is impossible to properly seat the bearing without putting all the pressing pressure on the ***** in the bearing....ruining the bearing.

Totally sure....
Thanks Greg, not sure what you are getting from the picture, but it's seated. I already admitted it was not in the picture with the circlip dead on, but I went back and handled that. The bearing was at the correct depth, the circlip was binding on the edge of its groove.

You can relax now, since I am looking at the actual part.
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:00 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
Well the good news is that the other side will done correctly.
For the OP please read these words carefully

I suggest to use a Mapp gas torch to heat the hub carrier to about 250 to 300F
or use two propane torches.
The propane will not heat hot enough fast enough compared to the Mapp gas

NOTE putting parts into the kitchen oven is not a good idea as any grease or cleaning liquids will quickly contaminate your food cooking oven, as they boil off.

NOTE wear leather gloves, heating the carrier is part of the installation process for these parts.
Use a bearing that has been chilled in the freezer for a few hours

NOTE read the Work Shop Manual before working on the rear wheel bearing removal/ installation.
The process your showing is not following the WSM

I would suggest that you not delete the use of the emergency brake for this machine.

If you should lose the brakes on the track it would be an EXCELLENT idea to have some back up.

Who is going to be holding the brakes while your checking on a running issue in the pits with the engine running whilst in neutral?

It would also be good to have the E brake set in the trailer and not have the car set in gear so it wont damage the transmission from transporting in gear.

NOTE the idea that you will warp the rotors by using the E brake pales compared to the safety factor of removing a separate safety system .

IE dont use the e brake till you have done a cool off lap.

Some of these ideas your posting should not be followed as they could jeopardize other racers.
Or damage the machine should this car ever get to the track.
Hey Merlin,

I've been working on these cars for 25+ years. I currently own 6 of them. You have your way, I have mine. The WSM is not gospel and Porsche has designed lots of stupid **** that has actually made it into production but it is outweighed by the 99.9% of the stuff they have done right.

Please don't lecture me on the properties of aluminum. One of the companies I own makes automotive aluminum castings. I am fully aware of the care and feeding of aluminum.

As to the e-brake, that is my opinion. Lots and lots of race cars delete the ebrake and I would love to see what could cause a dual master cylinder to fail on both circuits COMPLETELY. Your ebrake will not save you at 150+ miles an hour if that was to occur anyways.

Again, this is NOT an instructional thread, this is what I AM DOING. They are two different things. Follow it at your own peril.
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:06 PM
  #206  
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No problem brother, good luck with your build!
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:25 PM
  #207  
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All this said I removed the E brake on my 928 race car and never missed it. Shy of going through the pits the E brake would make little difference if you lost your brakes on the track
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Old 12-12-2016, 07:34 PM
  #208  
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^ And how many babies and kittens died because of your flagrant actions?
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Old 12-12-2016, 11:52 PM
  #209  
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After a very difficult thread clean up attempt, why don't we try this again?

Seeing this project leave will have me and a lot of people very upset, this is ridiculous.

Bottom line: If you have nothing positive to share with this project, don't post.

If you see something of issue with this build and you are not sure you can politely point it out, send Catorce a PM.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:08 AM
  #210  
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the LCA mods are pretty cool to allow for wider wheel/tires
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