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You can remove all of the plumbing and use the factory plugs that are at the front of the heads. (Large oil drain plugs will also work.)
This is a CIS/ROW engine where the air injection passages are drilled into the exhaust ports. On same year US L-Jet engines these passages are drilled into the intake ports and used for cold idle speed air bypass.
I suppose there always need to be an airflow towards exhaust ports and blocking them by blocking the end of the check valve is perhaps not such a good idea...will this not influence the good working of the engine ?
I could also put an airfilter on the end of the check valve, not ?
Your engine (if I've got it identified right) has those lines running through the heads and into the exhaust ports. No air filter needed.
What you want to do is remove the valve and pipe and put plugs into the head. The heads are actually symmetrical and if you check the PET (or search the interwebz) you'll find there are plugs for the front of the heads. Those front-side plugs are exactly what you need for the back. Save the sealing rings that are on there now and re-use them.
Makes the engine neat and clean with all those pipes and the air pump removed.
No problems with running the car or performance. Shooting air into the exhaust burns hydrocarbons before exiting the tailpipe. That's what it was for.
I left the rear fittings in place, and 1" of the hose, and inserted 1" of broom handle dowel in the hose and clamped it up. No issues.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
Ken - why do you say ROW? It's a US spec, as ROW did not have all of this emissions junk. What am I missing?
Originally Posted by jpitman2
I left the rear fittings in place, and 1" of the hose, and inserted 1" of broom handle dowel in the hose and clamped it up. No issues.
jp 83 Euro S AT 56k
And what about connecting the check valve via a tube to the bottom of the airbox? because I noticed that there is a small tube sticking out at the bottom of the right Side of the airbox
Note also the hot-start valve tucked under there just above/forward of the red circle.
If the comment about ported exhaust being US-only holds water then my Euro had more mysteries than I knew...are the non-existent in the castings in US heads or just blocked? I have to go find a picture of my old CIS nemesis...IIRC it had the same setup as the above picture but had allen plugs in air recirc to exhaust ports.
And what about connecting the check valve via a tube to the bottom of the airbox? because I noticed that there is a small tube sticking out at the bottom of the right Side of the airbox
If you did that then if the valve fails you'd have exhaust running back into the engine. Remove the valve and pipe and then put in plugs. (However you choose to make, find or buy them.)
^^ what Glen said ..... simple and best to put head plugs in at the rear, and you get rid of the rest of the air pump junk.
Here are a couple of pics, one showing the main air chamber running right through the head from the back to the front close to the exhaust ports, with torchlight shining through from an exhaust port drilling, which you can see in the second pic.
I just looked and found the connections that need to be plugged in my car's heads. I looks easy to get to with the engine out. It looks like a pretty tight squeeze with the engine in place. Any suggestions? Any easier to reach from below?
Thanks
Dave
10-18-2016, 03:28 PM
what about check valve if no airpump
