to remove the studs,
its safer to pull the block as you will need a torch to remove the studs,
the block has to be heated to about 300 degrees F to break the locktite using the 2 nut method otherwise you can shear off the studs into the block then you may need another engine. From the picture provided my bet is that your going to find a low spot on the block where the gasket leaked.

NOTE you should also have the piston tops cut the same amount as the top of the block.

I had a 4.7 block that had the same issue and the cylinders were not flush with the block edges they cut .020 inch off of each side and the tops of the pistons.

Just out of curiosity do you need to remove the studs? I redid my heads with the engine out of the car (kudos to you for getting them off with the engine in - that must've been a job!). Anyway, the old Porsche tech that gave me a hand said they used one hell of a super strong lock-tite type of chemical on the head studs and did not recommend removing them unless there was a reason to.

I presume you are trying to get them out so you can check if the mating surface is flat? I'm wondering if its possible to take a slimmer flat edge and work on the outside of the studs and between the studs to check for flatness? I'm not sure. Just hypothesizing. Obviously it would be best if they were out.

ive only seen head gasket problems that show up with the water ejecting into the V or pressurixing the over flow container and pushing water out. i guess if the head gasket cant keep the water out with its measly 15psi pressure, how does the combustion not fly out that leak and pressureize the water jacket and eject water out the overflow?

I managed to extract all studs, with lots of penetrating oil and patience.
I used the double nut method and the ones that didn't came loose first try I used also a vice-grip at the bottom of the stud as close as possible to the surface of the block.

As you can see some of the studs had more corrosion than others. The grade of corrosion had no relation to how easy they came loose.

I must confess that I was very affraid that one would snap off but I guess I was lcuky that didn't happened :D

Why are they installed with loctite? I'm planning to change all studs, nuts and washers. Now I'm bussy cleaning the holes with a tread tap with extension.
Should I put loctite on the new studs (of course after degreasing everything).
I would think that the studs would never come loose with the correct torque?

I also found it strange that there was coming cooling water in the combustion chamber without pressure coming on the cooling system. There was also no leak visible exept the smoke coming from the exhaust. But I guess its possible after seeing the washed effect in cilinder 6.

dont clean the holes with a tap you will ruin the threads
I hope you measured the height of the studs prior to removal .
Use loctite red to install the new studs .
I would send a PM to Greg Brown and get instructions on how to proceed

How would you clean them? I only cleaned 2 of them by now
I was carefull and making sure I don't have shiny metal parts during the cleaning.
but some holes have dirt in them, especially the ones were the corroded studs were positioned

get a bore brush and some carb cleaner.

NOTE a tap will open up the threads , then the stud will have less grip and could pull free.

Ok Thanks! I'm going to search and buy a bore brush
And do you think it's necessary to put loctite on the new studs?
Which number of loctite would be the best? I already have got 243 (medium) and 2701 (strong)

red loctite

Really?

Why not just blue or nothing? Those are tight. I don't think they'll vibrate loose.

I'd think you'd never get them out again with red. (Yes, I think about that.)

Be sure the holes are clear from water or oil. Trying to compress that fluid in the bottom of the hole can have disasterous results.

red is specified in the WSM