'78 oil pan gasket question?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
'78 oil pan gasket question?
I read a few posts. It seems you have to jack the engine up a bit and remove a bunch underneath.
Questions, does the 4X4 engine hoist scratch the car at all?
I seen posts about a silicone gasket, cork etc. could not find any links for them either?????
I am not sure if I want to tackle this or not.
Dave
Questions, does the 4X4 engine hoist scratch the car at all?
I seen posts about a silicone gasket, cork etc. could not find any links for them either?????
I am not sure if I want to tackle this or not.
Dave
#2
Everything you need to know is here, except you have solid motor mounts. Once you have the cross-member out the pan gasket can be attacked.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/MotorMounts.htm
I use silicone gaskets but you need to make sure you do not over toque the bolts.
It's not a fun job, but it also not that hard either.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/MotorMounts.htm
I use silicone gaskets but you need to make sure you do not over toque the bolts.
It's not a fun job, but it also not that hard either.
#3
Dave,
I believe, your question concerning the oil pan gasket...means you are going to do it without removing the crossmember. Which is one way to do it, but it is somewhat more difficult. However, you save a ton of time not removing the crossmember and getting an alignment later.
Drain oil - remove oil filter (it's always beneficial if you haven't ran the engine in a few days..less dripping), remove motor mount bracket bolts - alternator - a/c compressor - starter - clutch slave cylinder - etc, use engine support system (either the 4X4 or engine hoist), remove oil pan bolts, drop pan as far as you can and carefully remove old gasket, clean mounting surfaces, slip new oil pan gasket around the outside of the pan, use of adhesive is your call, align the oil pan gasket into position and use small twist-ties or zip-ties to hold it in place, lift pan into place (an extra set of hands here is useful) and bolt back up. There is probably a torque spec for the oil pan bolts, so you will need to find that. I tighten mine by feel.
I believe, Roger has the gasket you are thinking about...silicone.
Since you have solid motor mounts, removing the crossmember isn't necessary. Which, it wasn't with my 84 either...even though the majority of folks do it that way.
Brian.
I believe, your question concerning the oil pan gasket...means you are going to do it without removing the crossmember. Which is one way to do it, but it is somewhat more difficult. However, you save a ton of time not removing the crossmember and getting an alignment later.
Drain oil - remove oil filter (it's always beneficial if you haven't ran the engine in a few days..less dripping), remove motor mount bracket bolts - alternator - a/c compressor - starter - clutch slave cylinder - etc, use engine support system (either the 4X4 or engine hoist), remove oil pan bolts, drop pan as far as you can and carefully remove old gasket, clean mounting surfaces, slip new oil pan gasket around the outside of the pan, use of adhesive is your call, align the oil pan gasket into position and use small twist-ties or zip-ties to hold it in place, lift pan into place (an extra set of hands here is useful) and bolt back up. There is probably a torque spec for the oil pan bolts, so you will need to find that. I tighten mine by feel.
I believe, Roger has the gasket you are thinking about...silicone.
Since you have solid motor mounts, removing the crossmember isn't necessary. Which, it wasn't with my 84 either...even though the majority of folks do it that way.
Brian.
#5
Dave,
I believe, your question concerning the oil pan gasket...means you are going to do it without removing the crossmember. Which is one way to do it, but it is somewhat more difficult. However, you save a ton of time not removing the crossmember and getting an alignment later.
Drain oil - remove oil filter (it's always beneficial if you haven't ran the engine in a few days..less dripping), remove motor mount bracket bolts - alternator - a/c compressor - starter - clutch slave cylinder - etc, use engine support system (either the 4X4 or engine hoist), remove oil pan bolts, drop pan as far as you can and carefully remove old gasket, clean mounting surfaces, slip new oil pan gasket around the outside of the pan, use of adhesive is your call, align the oil pan gasket into position and use small twist-ties or zip-ties to hold it in place, lift pan into place (an extra set of hands here is useful) and bolt back up. There is probably a torque spec for the oil pan bolts, so you will need to find that. I tighten mine by feel.
I believe, Roger has the gasket you are thinking about...silicone.
Since you have solid motor mounts, removing the crossmember isn't necessary. Which, it wasn't with my 84 either...even though the majority of folks do it that way.
Brian.
I believe, your question concerning the oil pan gasket...means you are going to do it without removing the crossmember. Which is one way to do it, but it is somewhat more difficult. However, you save a ton of time not removing the crossmember and getting an alignment later.
Drain oil - remove oil filter (it's always beneficial if you haven't ran the engine in a few days..less dripping), remove motor mount bracket bolts - alternator - a/c compressor - starter - clutch slave cylinder - etc, use engine support system (either the 4X4 or engine hoist), remove oil pan bolts, drop pan as far as you can and carefully remove old gasket, clean mounting surfaces, slip new oil pan gasket around the outside of the pan, use of adhesive is your call, align the oil pan gasket into position and use small twist-ties or zip-ties to hold it in place, lift pan into place (an extra set of hands here is useful) and bolt back up. There is probably a torque spec for the oil pan bolts, so you will need to find that. I tighten mine by feel.
I believe, Roger has the gasket you are thinking about...silicone.
Since you have solid motor mounts, removing the crossmember isn't necessary. Which, it wasn't with my 84 either...even though the majority of folks do it that way.
Brian.
You say alignment? when I did mine on the 85 I did not get an alignment ,is it necessary to do that on all 928s? I have never had a tire wear problem or am i missing something? thank you.
#6
Team Owner
you will need an alignment if you remove the cross member as this will also cause the lower control arms to be moved from their position
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
question on lifting the motor. I have the alternator off, starter clutch slave is the air conditioner pump necessary? It has the original freon in it and still works. I don't want to mess with it if I do not have to.
and all i need to remover are these 4 bolts?
and all i need to remover are these 4 bolts?