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Nice looking car. With the overheat, and now belt tension, it's pretty clear your pump has frozen, or seized shaft, and the cams are being run by the belt just slipping on the water pump pulley. If you start the engine again, you could easily face a belt breakage, or timing jump that will crash the valves into the piston.
So don't start the engine until the entire belt path is inspected, and the water pump is fixed.
That whole water bridge area (and perhaps the rest of the cooling system...) is likely corroded to match the ports you've exposed. Needless to say, that's Not Good.
Back to my original hypothesis though, those vent lines and ports need to be clear. The lime/corrosion in the vent port can sometimes be punched through (use a straight pin drift-style punch and a little bit of hammer), or drilled through.
It's also time to pull the thermostat housing and the thermostat for a look, since that's almost undoubtedly what's keeping coolant from flowing through the radiator. Behind the thermostat is a seal that mates with the back of the thermostat when the engine is warm. When that leaks, coolant that would normally pass through the radiator is diverted through the block again instead. Seal is a rubber-faced ring with a steel insert, grabs onto a sharp-edged nozzle directly behind and concentric to the thermostat itself. Note that the car will overheat without a thermostat, so resist the temptation to "just leave it out for testing."
The top covers for the belt area will earn you some visual access to the belt as it passes over the water pump pulley. Make a mark on the belt pulley, then bump the engine some on the starter, or manually turn the engine with a wrench on the crank pulley nose bolt. See if the pulley turns when the belt moves. If no movement, you have a new water pump in your immediate future.
Thanks dr Bob. That's all out or coming out now anyways. Roger has a list in hand and is on the case. Been reading up on the thrust bearing issue too. Gee that's a bit of a worry. I'm just about to scoot under and check that out now. As soon as I've finished my coffee that is.
So today is done for Porsche time and we are looking ok so far. No pics since I'm on my phone and keep getting that parse error message. I know on one other forum the photo files were too large so I'd email a shrunken file to myself, save it then I could attach it. This forum however is preventing me from doing that. Anyway I'll get pictures attached later on my confuser
Couldn't get the HB and other pulleys off cause I thought my guts would explode outwards if went any harder at it. I'll need to wait until I have the lock tool from bogdann and have another go.
Last edited by westside oz; 09-03-2016 at 12:53 AM.
Happy Fathers' Day to all the dads out there. Hopefully you get shamelessly large on whatever "big breakfasts" you have at your local cafe like I did. That is of course if it is Fathers' Day where you are.
So this arvo the rest of my family headed out to do whatever they needed to do so that freed up a little time for me to do what I needed and that would be a bit of time on the Porch. I think I may adopt that term as the one I use when I'm going to play with my new toy, like in "Bye Dear, I'm off to the porch for a little while". (small things amuse small minds, I know).
So whilst I wait to pick up some gear from bogdann (Norm) tomorrow I went ahead this afternoon and checked the flex plate and thrust bearing clearance as per anther one of Dwayne's uber-cool write-ups. yet again he makes it look like child's play, which this one actually was, and I was back home here for an update and beer, or as they said in Team America "debriefing and cocktails".
I had got my panties in quite a bunch after reading many posts here and there about gouged out blocks from excessive thrust applied by the tailshafts migrating forwards. Well I found that I did in fact have 3mm of forward travel on the flex plate.
So I rotated the crank so I could yet at the SHCS on the clamp and, as Dwayne said I could, I watched the plate drift back to its happy place. Before locking the clamp back up to a teeny bit past 65ftlb I checked the end float on the crank. Happy to say I am looking good at .23mm which falls right in the middle of the range indicated in the WSM.
So I am calling that a very brief but successful day on the Porch.
And in news just in I have clearance from the War Office to get a hoist!!!
I am not having too much fun skidding around under this thing no matter how well I have my stands set up. That is going to be most likely the best tool ever to come into my possession. When it comes time to restore this old tank it will be a god send.
Sounds like you're getting things done Gary ... good to hear. I had a chuckle when I read you had approval from the 'War Office' to get a hoist. I like your writing style ... keep up the good work.
Looks like a good buy for the price, and sounds like you're up for the challenge.
It would definitely listen to the people on this forum regarding your engine woes, but the way I see it even if you had the pull the engine and rebuild you'd still be in front.
Cant offer too much in the way of spares, but would love you to go for a cruise when you finally get her back on the road.
Only advise I can offer after 3 years of repairs is make yourself known to Roger Tyson (928srus.com) and Mark Anderson (928International) and Dave Roberts (928 Specialists). Pelican parts are pretty good too. Chellingworth locally are sometimes competitive, but not often enough.
Also, Parts catalogue is easy to get a hold off online, and workshop manual is a worthy investment.
Ok so (sort of) making progress but unfortunately as I'm on my phone right now there are no photos. I HAVE A HOIST!!!!!! I pushed the boat out and got a two poster which will make a massive difference to my car projects. For instance: it took my about three hours and some skun knuckles to top up the trans in my downhill driveway a few days ago but it only took three minutes up on the high steel to take that oil back out again. then again if I'd waited another few days it would have all bled out on the floor anyway.
I have a quote in hand for parts recommended for a major engine bay reno so we'll see if I can get some planets to line up but my suspicion is not so much.
I think my car had a front spoiler so I have to see if I can find one of those as well as fix some damage to the front grille part.
So I've done some more homework after getting into it a bit. First of all here are a couple pics of the vehicle. Evident here in the morning sun is why I hate silver gars. NO ONE can match silver.
Before commencing tear-down a had another go at bleeding the coolant system but to no avail, still overheating so water pump it is. What I found though was this, not a good picture but the top most bleed port on the bridge was completely blocked. So much so that after much digging with a very small driver I couldn't get right through. I figured it's "possible" this is actually a blank port so stopped digging. Not convinced though.
So now I'm ding as suggested and reading the Newbies thread(s) and boning up on Dwayne's post to see what's up as I progress though this.
More pics later.
G
Please take a picture of the sitcker under the carpet of the trunk, to be 100% sure of the colour.
But I'm almost certain this car is Lagoon green, code 35Y.
So here we are a way down the track on my 928. I've not even been able to view this site on my phone via the app or the Safari site. I keep getting scammed, spammed or both.
I have had the cam covers and intake parts all powder coated and they look pretty good (to my eyes at least) and now I'm further into under those covers. Roger sent me chain tensioner pads but mine look like brand new, keeping in mind this thing is only 70k miles old so I think I'll leave them. This leads to my question about the tensioners. One of them (right side looking forward) is springy and keeps the chain taught. The other one (under the cams) doesn't move and the chain is slack. I understand they are hydraulic tensioners and maybe the springy one has air in it but I don't see why the other one is stuck and not springy. I'm interested in any ideas on this that you all might have. No pics sorry.
The other question is about the cam cap screws. What in the devil is that socket? I have read that they are easy to strip which leads to drilling. That certainly does not appeal to me. I also have the oil hole pins courtesy of Roger however caps off to install these might be a chore. Thoughts on this too if anyone has any please.
Cheers folks.
Make sure you have completly cleaned the inside of that intake after powder coating and before you reinstall!!! Plenty of threads here and lost engines to powered coating being injested into engines and scoring blocks. If you think it has been thouroughly cleaned, clean it again with a good pressure washing from a car wash. That powder coating will hide in nooks and crannies until you fire it up and it gets sucked in!
Cam cap bolts are Triple square IIRC. Now replaced by allan head.
You can return the tensioner pads if not needed.
As for the oil pins - to me that is a must as the old caps have a habit of falling out.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission? George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
09-01-2016, 10:20 PM
then again if I'd waited another few days it would have all bled out on the floor anyway. 
George Layton March 2014