FredR

The more I read about your misfortune the more I feel the poor thing is recoverable if you feel so motivated. The list of plasticky things that melted/burned will probably be quite extensive but they are not difficult to fix. If you can get items like the bonnet and the wing replaced at minimal expense and the motor is fine as I fully expect it will be, it is more a question of time/effort taken to put things in order and if you can do most of what is needed then recovery is definitely an option.

No one would blame you if you feel you have had enough trauma with this car - you surely deserve a good result.

Rgds

Fred

vanster

Right now all the signs point to a full recovery. I can't see really any reason to part it out
We are all sure the engine is Ok. On the dyno this car was putting out close to 290hp at the rear wheels at 4500 rpm. I'm optimistic.

Randy V

It's not the only reason.

kmascotto

Wow, that really...really sucks. But I think you are headed in the right direction. Fixer back up, she is worth it!
I have a good used set of rotors and caps your more than welcome to have...just the shipping cost. I don't think I have any other relevant parts for you though.

Good luck

vanster

The rotor looks Ok and the caliber does not look all that bad, it's all the stuff connected to it
The rubber in the upper ball joint did not burn

kmascotto

Sorry i wasn't clear Vanster i was referring to the Distributor Caps and rotors.

Nicole

Glad you are planning to keep this beautiful car!

If you need one or two 8" H4s, or a side marker for the repair, PM me!

Alan

Its not size that matters so much - it is effectiveness. A 2.5Lb Halon 1211 extinguisher is sufficient for most eventualities. A good preplanned way to get it into the engine compartment without opening the hood is even better. Deployment near the top of the engine (think fuel rails) will blanket the whole engine as Halon is heavier than air. Halon displaces oxygen - it puts out fires almost instantaneously (astonishingly fast!).

Mount the extinguisher in front of - or behind - the passenger seat on a quick release (one handed) mount. Plumb a route to installed jets in the engine bulkhead - aligned with the fuel rails. You of course need an attachment between the installed plumbing and the extinguisher nozzle.

Stories like this one prompted me to do this years ago. The 928 fuel system is quite high pressure and can dump a huge amount of fuel very quickly. Being prepared is recommended.

Alan

vanster

For me this is a no brainer. We had a system similar to this on most race cars.

PumaLoco

I just re-plumbed the fuel injection system in my 87. I started it up outside my hangar door, and it started first crank. Problem immediately presented with a mist of fuel under the hood which panicked me. I hopped out of the car and peaked under the open hood just as it flashed over and blew me into the hangar on fire. Fortunately, I landed on my fire extinguisher and managed to blow dust all over the engine box only to see the engine was still running and pumping more fuel on the fire. Still beating the flames off my overalls, [my beard, eyebrows and arm hair was already gone] I reached through the driver's window and turned the ignition key off and then continued to blow more dust on the fire. The flames rising from the top of the engine stopped but the bloody pavement on the taxiway was still on fire so I had to push the damn thing through burning asphalt to save it and a row of hangar queen 421's parked behind me at Chino.

Cause you asked: A split supply hose at the trunk between the pressure regulator on the back of the supply manifold [there are 3, 2 balancers on the fuel rails and one regulator at the back] where the hose mounts on the top of the accelerator cable spool. This brake supplied the mist of fuel I saw from inside the passenger compartment, and a frayed or cracked injector wire/ground at the injector supplied the tiny spark that nearly burned my butt to the ground when I peaked into the engine compartment to see where the fuel was coming from.

The fuel supply plumbing a real weak spot with these cars--the supply line where it changes from hard line to rubber hose and fitting, that mixes perfectly with the other weakness--fraying or cracking wires under the boots that mount the injector plugs.

Melted valve covers, melted wiring, melted [distorted] anything plastic. Everything else survived but my pride [and my hair].

I've been contemplating fabricating a better intake manifold, something along the lines of 928 Motorsport's rigs, then change over the ignition system at the same time to FAST-4 to end the Deutchland Fireball episode for good.

C

C

NIACAL4NIA

There was a recall on 1987 and up 928s fuel lines for not being ozone resistant and leak with age. Google search the part number and make sure you don't have them.

utjmac

I hate to see any 928 go down. I'm sure there are plenty of us interested if you part out, if it's burgundy, I'd be interested.

What part of the country are you in? Here's to a quick recovery. Glad you are safe...this interesting ride of passionate car ownership always has its ups and downs, but the stories and experiences make it what it is. Good luck!

vanster

Update to all those following this. Just had an independent appraiser look at it and believe it or not it's not as bad as it looks. The odor in the interior is almost gone, the right front fender is not damaged at all as with the cowl. Does not require a repaint. All the electrics still work including the lights which still go up and down and light up. I have a donor car that has all the bits we need to put it back together.

It appears that at the clip on the # 8 injector popped off.
The underside needs a boot on the steering rack and right bushing on the bar. The ball joint rubber on the upper A arm is Ok.

zekgb

Wow that is GREAT news (which you richly deserve at this point.) Sharktoberfest might be doable?

vanster

Wouldn't that be something. I guess it's possible, that would be 6 weeks from when it gets to GB.