Bent Leaf Spring Lower Control Arm
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Bent Leaf Spring Lower Control Arm
Now that my 84 is up on jack stands I am getting a better look at the condition of things. One very noticeable item is that the leaf spring on the right lower control arm is bent.
There was a thread about this issue three years ago but it ended without resolution.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ntrol-arm.html
My question is has any one successfully straightened one out and if so what were the results in handling/alignment? Obviously the correct fix is replacement, but was wondering if a temp fix was worth pursuing or just leave as is until replaced?
Thanks
There was a thread about this issue three years ago but it ended without resolution.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ntrol-arm.html
My question is has any one successfully straightened one out and if so what were the results in handling/alignment? Obviously the correct fix is replacement, but was wondering if a temp fix was worth pursuing or just leave as is until replaced?
Thanks
Last edited by GT6ixer; 07-03-2016 at 01:36 AM.
#2
Team Owner
the only way to fix this is to replace the lca
this part can no longer be trusted for service
the flat part is tempered spring steel
this part can no longer be trusted for service
the flat part is tempered spring steel
#4
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#6
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I believe the rear LCAs are the same from 78 thru 91 (not sure about the GTSs). The mounting point to the body changed to accommodate changes to the exhaust in '87, IIRC, but the control arm is exactly the same. I put LCAs from an '87 on my '80, prefect fit.
#7
Rennlist Member
Stan is likely correct--this is a hardened and tempered steel spring. The key there, however, if the word tempered. Hardened steel if very brittle. Then when it is tempered it retains much of the hardness, but becomes much more flexible.
In this case since it was already bent and did not fail, that suggests, to me that it can be bent back and still not break. In fact, back in the day one of the old techniques to lower a car with leaf springs was to reverse the spring eyes at each end. This was done be simply using a hydraulic press and bend the spring in the other direction. I never heard of any resulting failure is such a rebent spring.
I would remove this part and straighten it and put it back. But, that may just be me.
In this case since it was already bent and did not fail, that suggests, to me that it can be bent back and still not break. In fact, back in the day one of the old techniques to lower a car with leaf springs was to reverse the spring eyes at each end. This was done be simply using a hydraulic press and bend the spring in the other direction. I never heard of any resulting failure is such a rebent spring.
I would remove this part and straighten it and put it back. But, that may just be me.
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#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
PET shows the same part# 928-331-044-06 (right) for all years, $250 from 928 Int'l. (Left is 928-331-043-06).
#10
Rennlist Member
Stan is likely correct--this is a hardened and tempered steel spring. The key there, however, if the word tempered. Hardened steel if very brittle. Then when it is tempered it retains much of the hardness, but becomes much more flexible.
In this case since it was already bent and did not fail, that suggests, to me that it can be bent back and still not break. In fact, back in the day one of the old techniques to lower a car with leaf springs was to reverse the spring eyes at each end. This was done be simply using a hydraulic press and bend the spring in the other direction. I never heard of any resulting failure is such a rebent spring.
I would remove this part and straighten it and put it back. But, that may just be me.
In this case since it was already bent and did not fail, that suggests, to me that it can be bent back and still not break. In fact, back in the day one of the old techniques to lower a car with leaf springs was to reverse the spring eyes at each end. This was done be simply using a hydraulic press and bend the spring in the other direction. I never heard of any resulting failure is such a rebent spring.
I would remove this part and straighten it and put it back. But, that may just be me.
#11
Team Owner
Yep, someone hit a curb going sideways. Ask me how I know...
R&R is the only option.
If this was the damage scenario,
guess what stopped it from going further?
The halfshaft was pushed into the transmission I would also inspect the CV joints
R&R is the only option.
If this was the damage scenario,
guess what stopped it from going further?
The halfshaft was pushed into the transmission I would also inspect the CV joints
#12
this is also common when being towed. More than one wrecker driver has been them.... and being used as a tie down point for a dyno run can do this as well.
#13
Nordschleife Master
Since it's pushed forwards I doubt that it was a tow truck driver's mistake. Then again, if swung into a curb I'd expect a gradual bend and not o much corner. Backed into something? Whatever... It needs to go.
Replace. Look in the used market. These aren't typical wear parts so many are gathering dust. Get a good one and don't replace the bushings.
In the meantime, I'd try to pull it straight and then do a home-quality check of the toe-in. If it hasn't been aligned with that bend in there it'll be toed-out. ("toe-outted?")
Replace. Look in the used market. These aren't typical wear parts so many are gathering dust. Get a good one and don't replace the bushings.
In the meantime, I'd try to pull it straight and then do a home-quality check of the toe-in. If it hasn't been aligned with that bend in there it'll be toed-out. ("toe-outted?")
#14
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typical tow truck bend....seen several bent. The arms do have minor variations in the welding areas but all are dimensionally the same. As noted they never wear out so little demand for them....
#15
Race Car
Thread Starter
Since it's pushed forwards I doubt that it was a tow truck driver's mistake. Then again, if swung into a curb I'd expect a gradual bend and not o much corner. Backed into something? Whatever... It needs to go.
Replace. Look in the used market. These aren't typical wear parts so many are gathering dust. Get a good one and don't replace the bushings.
In the meantime, I'd try to pull it straight and then do a home-quality check of the toe-in. If it hasn't been aligned with that bend in there it'll be toed-out. ("toe-outted?")
Replace. Look in the used market. These aren't typical wear parts so many are gathering dust. Get a good one and don't replace the bushings.
In the meantime, I'd try to pull it straight and then do a home-quality check of the toe-in. If it hasn't been aligned with that bend in there it'll be toed-out. ("toe-outted?")
That's what I initially thought but then if being bent forward had me confused. I suspect they could have chained to it from in front of the rear wheel to get the to happen.