giddyupp

Getting a little closer to finishing the top end refresh and looking for some advice on some of the connectors. A couple of the fuel injector connecter cables have some pretty serious creases in them. I don't see any evidence of break in the plastic casing but it sure seems like the cable gets real thin right at the crease. Is this something i need to worry about ? Not sure of the cost of new connectors. Im pretty sure Roger will have these. If the advice is to replace them, does anyone have a crimping tool and die size to recommend

Thanks as always

bureau13

The actual wires are inside the sheath, and are fairly thin. The sheath getting pinched doesn't bother me. If they get brittle and tear, that's different.

Roger does have them, I don't remember what they cost...I had one that needed replacing and purchased it...

zekgb

I just did this job and replaced all of the connectors as a few of the boots were torn and all of the brown sheething was rock hard. You'll need an open barrel crimper like this one to use Roger's kit. Where are you located?

https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-300-0...barrel+crimper

Did you take a close look at the other connectors like for the TPS, IAC and MAF? They will all usually start deteriorating at the same time. Where are you located? The local group is very active so if you'd like an extra pair of hands or eyes to check out your work we an definitely arrange it.

giddyupp

I have already got a couple of the other connectors from Roger. Just need to buy the right crimper. The one I have does not have a small enough die. The only other connector in question is the one on the Maf. The connector looks ok but the boot has come apart. Is it possible to just replace the boot ?
Im located in San Carlos - Mid SF peninsula. Would more than welcome a second pair of eyes on the job.

zekgb

You definitely need an open barrel crimper to do this correctly.Pretty sure the one I linked was the one I ended up using for all of the connectors.

Unfortunately the MAF boot can't be replaced seperately from the connector as the individual connectors can't be released from the plug. Come to think of it I probably should not give advice on this particular job as I screwed up and reversed the wires on reassembly and ended up literally setting my MAF on fire. if you don't want to deal with the plug you could try just wrapping the boot with self fusing silicone tape and calling it a day.

bureau13

I'm confused, what are you crimping? Mine came with a pigtail..the connectors were already attached.

I haven't actually put it on the car yet, so maybe I missed something...

giddyupp

I ordered one of the connector kits from Roger for the Iddle control valve. The kit comes with a new boot, a new connector and the spade ends. The spades need to be crimped onto the existing wires and then inserted into the connector.

giddyupp

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Located in San Carlos - Mid SF Peninsula. Any offers of a 2nd set of eyes would be more than appreciated. Not to mention it would be great to meet some fellow enthusiasts

The MAF connecter boot is broken but actual connector appears to be ok. Can I just replace the boot ?

ROG100

The two way connectors female are available with or without pigtails.
For the injectors we usually supply the connectors with pigtails.

giddyupp

Sounds like the pig tail is the better way to go. Just need to know if you guys think the ones I have with the kink - need to be replaced or not.

Bill Ball

You could test the integrity of the wires at the kinks by wiggling and flexing them at the kink while the car is running. If the car dies, you have a short or wire break. Most of the problems with wires fraying and shorting occur inside the main body of the boot, when the filler resin and wire insulation hardens and cracks. I generally don't replace these connectors unless the boot is completely hardened or torn or the wire clip is lost. The MAF boot cannot be replaced w/o cutting all the wires. If the MAF boot is torn, examine the wires for insulation brittleness and cracks. If they are OK, wrap the torn boot with self-fusing, heat tolerant silicone tape. I did that to mine years and years ago and have had no issues. I'd be glad to drop by sometime in the next week or so and look things over with you.

mj1pate

It may also be possible to use an ohm meter productively. Disconnect the connectors from the injectors and disconnect the harness from the LH. use a small grounded wire to insert into each injector connector hole. Back at the LH harness, measure the resistance to ground. Do what Bill said and have someone move the connector under test and observe the ohm meter. This should make for a more friendly test environment with a cool engine.
Oh, while your at it, head down and crammed into the passenger foot well, you can check the cold resistances of the temp sensors at the harnesses. Factory manual has a good documentation on this procedure. Pop the fuses out and spray deoxit into the panel receptacles. Pop the relays out and spray deoxit into the panel receptacles. It's remarkable how a few things will work better afterwards.
In other words. It's all about the WYAITs. Good heavens how the WYAITs have grown, just like weeds... I swear.

giddyupp

I cannot test the integrity while the car is running as this is all part of a top end refresh. I am still quite a ways from a running engine.

Thanks for the offer Bill I would love to take you up on that. I am leaving town on Friday for a Weeks vacation, so probably wouldn't be able to get back into this until the week of the 11th. I have ordered a couple of the connectors from Roger. I will check back on my return.

Thanks again

Bill Ball

Well, then you can do what Michael Pate suggests with a meter. PM me when you get back and we can find a time for me to come over your way. There may be other things in the intake refresh to review as well.

mj1pate

Just thought I should mention that I have had some of those "seriously creased injector boots" for 10 years. Yes, every time they are handled they are at some risk. I believe Roger had replaced his harness to eliminate issues and that same action is in all of our futures should we keep these cars so long. But I would suggest testing continuity first before taking on more. My experience is that the WYAITs are multiplying and we have to strategically plan what we are getting into. This is the second year for me that a repair plus WYAITs has grown into 2 months. They were all relatively necessary but I had to say "stop" to the rest in the queue to avoid a preoccupation.