Since you are on record about keeping your car forever, you have time to make it perfect. Well done.

Looks good Moose!

Great job Alex. :thumbup:

That injector is just missing it's pintle cap. The cap is there to protect the needle and help shape the spray pattern. You probably want to buy a kit with new caps and o-rings and refurb them all before you put them back in.

Yes that turned out to be the case, I had all injectors rebuilt.

You do a great job explaining root cause and repairs to a wide range of issues.
Thanks!

This weekend I took the opportunity to tear out my CE panel for a cleaning and diagnose the reason for no power to the fuel pump relay.
Attachment 1122493
I traced the wire from the 87 port of the relay socket through the spaghetti that is the back of the CE panel to fuse 22.
Hmm.. I had thought this was the spare location and fuse 13 was fuel pump but the reverse is true. As for the panel it is in good shape except the connector 'O' spades were corroded.
Attachment 1122494
Some of the fuse tabs were stretched open and I have closed them in uniformly.
Attachment 1122502
Everything cleaned, treated with Deoxit, and reinstalled I now have power to the fuel pump relay and further on to the wires at the fuel pump where they were snipped and I discovered the next mess.
Attachment 1122503
I cannot imagine why but the PO or a mechanic cut the end of the wire (to reuse the wire terminal??) and soldered directly to the fuel pump. I'm not sure where to go at this point but I have to drop the tank just to splice onto the factory fuel pump wires because the main power and another are cut out of reach to work on.
I will probably melt this off and see what I have to work with.

OH, I switched my jump post for a later style because only the later threaded caps are available but now I can't find the cap or jump post cover. Means my car is still worthless :bigbye:

Yay on cleaning and repairing your CE panel!

Boo on the janky fuel pump wiring.

Keep at it, your making progress! :D



Seth K. Pyle

Keep up the good work.

Brian.

Nice work Alex.,
the pump solder job was done because the PO mechanic overtightened the aluminum stud ,
thus snapping it off ,
either get a new pump or resolder,
if its not leaking then it should be OK to keep in service

The stud is still there, shadowed in the picture, so not sure what happened. At any rate it is a shame because that was a new fuel pump they installed.
The solder has cracked so I will clean it off as best as I can and go from there.
Now I'm thinking about the wiring, there are four wire tails. + and - are easy to figure out but what are the others? It's hard to make out in the wiring schematic.

The extra wires are probably for an in-tank fuel pump which an 83 did not have. The wires and the wiring harness still had the connection for it though it wasn't used.

Great, thanks!

I made some progress this weekend. The mess of solder on the fuel pump was already cracked and with that pried off, the stud and nut were under it. I attempted to remove the nut and it spun and spun, hence the reason it was all soldered up. I filed through one side of the nut and pried it off the stud. I figured at this point I would just need a replacement nut but of course it was the stud that stripped out.
I ended up pulling the pump out to rethread the positive stud, crimped on some extensions for the wiring and got it all hooked up. Not my best work but it does the job.

Attachment 1128068

I tested functionality with a fuel pump jumper, then plugged in a relay, turned over the engine and it started right up!

Now the bad part, I am hearing a kind of belt squeal sound but I don't think it is that. Almost a 'machining' sound at the front of the engine. Torque tube is coming out next for a rebuild so I will investigate frontward migration of the drive shaft.

To end on a positive note, I found my jump post cover and cap in the glove box :DAttachment 1128069

Nice work Alex. You are meticulous. Keep up the great work.