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Building the race car in 2008 we also had seen that the headers from Carl didn't allow to demount the lower bellhousing cover.
We didn't wanted that , but got it solved with his 32V headers. On those we had to make the flange holes bigger so they got over the studs . To match the exhaust ports we welded a thin steel lasered profile to the back of the flanges with the mounting holes at their exact place , so headers align good with the engine ports.
Those do clear the lower bellhousing pan !
PS this was 2008...… i do not know if the header design changed meanwhile.....sure the demountable collector piece as i see in your pics , mine are all one piece welded.
Thank you, that is an interesting solution to adapt 32v headers.
I have been enjoying the car and driving it around and to work once a week. I last washed it a month and about 600 miles ago and I have less brake dust on the wheels than I did driving 10 miles with the old pads so that is great. The pedal is not as firm as I remember though so I still need to bleed again. I did swap in another TSZ unit hoping that would fix the random stumble at idle but it made no difference. Otherwise I changed the oil and that is all.
I scanned the dealership invoice for this car in which the ink has faded and tried to bring out the contrast but it is beyond my skill level, or perhaps too faded.
I have tried viewing it under UV light but that had no effect on this ink. I am sure there is some way to darken the ink, maybe with heat, but I do not want to damage the document.
There are some interesting dealer options, one being a long gone leather storage box for $145. I wonder what that was.
I've had spare keys made for both cars including the rear console that I had no key for. I emailed the key codes that I had and photos of my keys to keys4classics in Australia and the keys that were made work perfectly.
I installed a Hans adjustable shifter and that has made a dramatic improvement.
I have finally completed the door card repairs and speaker replacement. I just have to replace the other three speakers at some point.
Otherwise, this car continues to challenge me. The left brake lamp that I thought I had fixed probably five different times died again. On a whim while troubleshooting I set my multimeter to AC and could measure an odd oscillating voltage at the bulb socket. This led me to think about the bulb check monitor and since I had a spare I switched it in and now have full illumination. The replacement gave me a tail lamp warning in the cluster so the only reason I never had a warning before with LEDs was that the old unit was failing. I pulled the offending wire from the 12 pin connector at the bulb check to disable it.
The other problem has been a persistent engine misfire that has frustrated me for a couple of years now. As documented in this thread I have tested or replaced everything concerning ignition, injection, vacuum, seals, smoke tested until zero leaks, etc. I did find some verdigris in one sparkplug boot and replaced the wires, distributor cap, and rotor. No change.
I replaced the distributor as I found that the shaft does not really turn smoothly and there is some rust dust inside but that made no change.
I have performed a compression and leakdown test and the results are impressive. Leakdown up to 20% is considered normal and I am at 2%.
The spark plugs are all uniform except #5. They each have a clean and dirty side. I am thinking the dirty side faces the combustion chamber. Looks like it is running lean?
Typical clean side
Typical dirty side
#5 has barely any discoloration.
Seeing this I begin to suspect the injector, but with engine running I can hear all eight pulse with a stethoscope. Maybe it is clogged or weak flow? So today I removed and tested with a can of brake cleaner. It has a nice cone pattern. Reinstalled and no change.
I am out of ideas at this point.
Thx for the update, keep up the good work!
Every time you lay hands on the car, it gets better and better!
Thanks
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Nice work Alex,I like your ideas for the speakers.
the roughness could be a leaking injector seal at the manifold,
did you use DC111 ion the seals?
I cannot take credit for the speaker idea. That was thought up by Hans in this thread with a speaker recommendation: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...r-testing.html
However I do have a bunch of adapter plates I made if anyone is interested that I will send for free.
Yes on the DC111 on new injector seals. With a smoke machine I have zero leaks even after ten minutes. I will say that on cold start it seems to run perfectly until the idle drops after 20-30 seconds. It misfires more the hotter the engine is. While driving I do not feel it at all and it pulls strongly up to redline at full throttle.
So I have made a definite improvement, my ignition was too far advanced. It is difficult setting the timing at 3000rpm by myself but I now have a timing light with a rpm readout. Set correctly helped a lot but I also dumped in a full big bottle of techron (32oz) into only half a tank and after a round trip to work today (120 miles) the idle is rock steady. I do remember at the first start of the year it ran really rough for a few minutes, maybe running on three or four cylinders, so I think the injectors get sticky. I wish ethanol would go away.
I had forgotten to post this photo, it shows that the oil baffle is working pretty well.
The car has been running great but I have never trusted the charging system. On cold starts it was good around 13.5v but after a drive it would be down to ~12.6v at idle. It never caused any problems and I thought this was due to the missing cooling shroud and hose on the alternator.
The PO had replaced the alternator with a Bosch AL115X with no provisions for the shroud. I looked up the specs on that unit and it is only rated at 50A rather than the required 90A. No wonder it could not keep up, the output was nearly half what it should be plus I have the electric cooling fan conversion that pulls 22A by itself.
I had bought a proper used alternator some time ago and attempted to install it but the positive stud is way too short, there is no way I can hook up the wiring harness.
Paris-Rhone 928 603 114 00
Since I was ordering a couple alternators for family/friends cars I got one for me too. The Bosch AL325X is the correct 90A unit with extended studs in the back for the cooling shroud. I have it all installed with a new cooling hose and got a nice 14.4v on cold start. I will take the car out tomorrow to see where it stands at hot idle.
So someone managed to back into my car while I was in a store, even though I always park far away from anyone else. At least the guy stuck around and the repairs will be paid by his insurance. The damage is minor but the bumper will have to be removed and repaired/replaced, turn signal assembly replaced, bumper shocks looked at, and fender repaired. His insurance is allowing me to pick a shop of my choosing but I have no idea where to take it.
Looking around I did find https://www.porschecollisioncenter.com/ that gives local Porsche approved collision centers but I have no idea if this is legitimate in any way. I know this car inside out, this will be difficult to trust someone to work on it, but on the bright side it will be better than it was since the bumper is all chippped up.
Sorry for your trouble, Alex.
You may be able to get a settlement check, then do the disassembly/reassembly work yourself, while taking the bumper somewhere for paint.
Good luck,
Dave
A couple of weeks ago on a drive, something kept catching my eye in the left side mirror. Finally while accelerating I saw that the mirror glass was flapping around from the top barely holding on. I pulled over and removed it before it could fall and smash to bits. I know I could have used any old adhesive but I wanted to keep the heating functional. I got this
that should work, let it set about 18 hours and it has held up fine so far.
Back to the alternator. Hot idle is awful at an even 12v, but by 1500 rpm it goes back up to 13.5v so I guess that is good. I think I misremembered the performance of the old alternator, I think it only went to 12.6v when revved up and hot idle was similar.
Edit: Just moved my car and noticed the low voltage light stayed on, this alternator is dead already, 11.8v no matter the RPM.
Dave that gives me an idea that I might be able to remove the bumper myself and drop off the car at a shop ready to go. I know they will want to see the car as-is for an estimate. I will have to see how the process goes. I have never been involved in an accident so this is new.
Last edited by Majestic Moose; 07-19-2020 at 08:58 PM.
09-06-2019, 07:45 AM
