Louis Louis

Put the window down to pay the toll--SNAP!--window falls into door (along with my stomach).

I took apart the door--the plastic window roller has snapped off the metal arm. No problem say I, just order the window roller kit $20. Now it can't be that easy (Of course it isn't). Good news is that I managed to get the window to stay tight in the up position. Bad news is that every time I hit a bump, I'm waiting for the lousy thing to come crashing down.

I'm pretty much resigned to having to take off the window regulator and take the thing to my uncle-in-law (careful, don't want to owe him too many favors) who has a machine press.

Questions:

1. Is there any other way to replace the part without taking off the regulator arm? Wishfull thinking. Don't have the ability or tools to do a lot of drilling and grinding.

2. How difficult is it to take off that regulator arm--looks like just a couple (four) of bolts? Will I be able to get it all back together without catastrophe?

3. Once I have everything pressed together, what are the pitfalls of putting it all back together. Specifically, how is it properly done, and do I have to do all sorts of fancy alignments?

Thanks in advance, any help will be greatly appreciated.

Louis Louis

GlenL

Any help? I can do that.

Mine broke into pieces. I needed to remove the whole mechanism. Then pound the new one to flare the end.

It's no fun to get the door panel off. It's a likely time to mess that up. There's a number of posts on this. (email, forum, nichols) One thing to remember is to get all of the bolts out. The know is sort tricky in that the big backing screws off. The little **** has a screw in the center.

Don't recall any difficulty putting it back in.

Nicole

Are you guys refering to the plastic guides that ride up and down the rail in the door?

Chceck the archives of this board for window guides, or window seals, or check this site:

http://www.kondratyev.com/porsche/te...ndow_frame.htm

GlenL

I believe the issue is with the roller that is on the end of the lift arm. It rides in a track on the window. The window doesn't need to be removed or separated from the guide shaft to have this replaced, just the whole motor/arm assembly. (Unfortunately)

Jim bailey - 928 International

Correct the regulator needs to be taken out of the door and the end of the rivet peened with a small punch and hammer to hold the roller in place . Use care not to get it too tight the roller needs to be free to roll . You then slide it back in place roller in the channel on the bottom of the window then secure the locating bolts .

heinrich

Does anyone have photos? I have a whole spare window winder somewhere but a can't &^%$#! find it

Bill Ball

We did a substitute technique...it does require some drilling and grinding.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...1&page=2&pp=15

heinrich

Thanks Bill, that thread was the bomb

borland

Removing and reinstalling the regulator/motor assembly is really quite easy. Trick is:

with the window fully closed (glass in full up position), secure the window using wire, looping the wire behind the vertical guide post, and hanging the wire loop with a wire "S" clip at one of the upper guide post bolt access holes.

With the window glass secured, remove the regulator/motor assembly bolts. Guide the regulator/motor assembly arm toward the rear door access hole and out. May have to unbolt the lock actuator mechanism and swing it out of the way. Real easy job.

On the re-riveting of the new roller... I used the old salvaged rivet under the new rivet, above an anvil, and pounded the new rivet with a 10 lb hammer.

Bill Ball

Yeah, removing the regulator and arm is the way to go if the door is not completely Dynamatted.

Ron_H

I have done my mechanism when my passenger side motor failed. I have two spare mechanisms. Relatively easy job as I recall.

My question is why not hold the window up in closed position with duct tape?
On the way to Parade this month, about halfway through Oregon, my window on the driver's side decided to take a dump too.....directly down into the door. I spent some time jamming a tree branch in there to hold the window up to reach Portland. Then I bought some foam at Michael's crafts store and crammed that in there, while holding the glass up with duct tape. (I am old enough to remember life without duct tape = dark ages!) Then we had to have the window down for the autocross so out came the support and then back in again for the trip back to California. *#$*%&@!*$@!! PIA.

So now I suppose I need a new roller and have to rivet it into place???? Or I could simply leave the window up and inoperative. While on the way back to California, I came to a toll booth in San Francisco and started to open the door to climb out to hand the money to the toll taker, and he waved me on. Maybe he thought I was planning to rob him. Anyway it saved me $3.
Sometimes life offers only simple pleasures.

Normy

Taking off the regulator isn't a big job in my experience. Remove a few bolts, and work it slowly and gently out of the door interior.

As to installing the new rivet, I just used a hammer and the driveway. I tapped it a few times, pulled on it, tapped, pulled...tapped again, until I had it secure but not too tight. I've done both doors.

-Just before a trip to Key West a few years ago the passenger side failed. I took the door panel off and used a screw clamp, similar to the Norma clamps that hold the intake together to keep the window up full time. Worked fine. I honed my technique too; I got that window too tight, and the nylon part does not turn- I greased the hell out of the track and my window works to this day, but the speed is much less than the driver's side. One of these days when I order a bunch of parts from 928 International I'm going to buy another slider and re-do the pax side.

N!

neilh

For anyone contemplating this job, here are the parts you need:
928-537-917-00 Steel Rivet
928-537-918-00 Window Lift Roller

heinrich

Great info Neil thanks ... I wonder if there's a generic part to replace that plastic roller.

neilh

H- I looked everywhere to find a generic, could not find one, then found it at my local ( in Georgia) Porsche dealer, in stock, both pieces cost less than $6!