FredR

Not sure I am reading your latest input correctly but if the TPS needs adjusting at this stage whoever installed the thing did not do his job correctly given the position has an adjustment range that has to be set correctly when mounting the thing- pretty basic stuff really.

If someone fitted this for you and charged you for doing it then he should put matters right for you free and gratis if such were to be the case I would politely suggest.

Rgds

Fred

safulop

Since the shop actually told me a new TPS was called for, I think they know how to install it correctly. My immediate suspicion is that if the TPS is the culprit here, then it is probably faulty, rather than incorrectly installed.

Mrmerlin

if you got a new TPS then it is probably an adjustment issue,
loosen the two screws and and move the unit,tighten the screws
then test it

OR even, easier loosen the throttle cable a half turn.
NOTE loosen the cable that goes around the wheel

safulop

OK if I want to try this trick, I see there are at least 4 different cables that attach to the throttle quadrant. Looks like the real throttle cable is one of the two that attach to the top flange of the quadrant. Now, am I playing with the upper or lower of these two cables?

Mrmerlin

^^^ well at this point if your asking me this question,
I think it would be wise to remove the upper and lower half of the air cleaner,
then find the wheel with the cable going around it,
then make the adjustment on the appropriate cable.
this will also let you investigate the other cables and how they are routed.

Bertrand Daoust

Upper.
This might help you.

Mrmerlin

I would inspect the cable and routing under the aircleaner

safulop

Yeah I was looking for a diagram like this in the WSM, never really found one.

safulop

And by the way, why do we call the auto trans cable "the Bowden cable" when it seems like these are all Bowden cables?

Bertrand Daoust

Good question!

Always asked myself the same thing...

FredR

In the UK we call it the "kick-down cable" for some weird reason.

I long gave up trying to rationalise what folks in your neck of the woods call things given we [of the UK] have enough word confusion for the rest of the world put together!
Bow- a medieval weapon ][boh]
Bow- a knot tied in a ribbon [boh]
Bow- the front of a ship [bou]
Bough- tree trunk [bou].
Try teaching the above to a person of a different [logical] language.

Rgds

Fred

safulop

OK we got into the high idle condition again today and I did some testing. I really don't think this is related to the throttle cable tension.

1) When this high idle occurs, it always kicks in at a very precise temperature during the warm-up cycle. As soon as the normal op range is reached on the gauge, up goes the idle.

2) While it was idling high, I opened the hood and played with the throttle quadrant. By shoving back on the quadrant it was easy to put slack into the throttle cable; no amount of slackening would cause the high idle to change.

While it was running I couldn't get it to kick out of high idle. When I restarted the car, it was easier to kick out of high idle by revving the engine, so I could mostly get it to idle correctly.

So I am thinking that somehow the TPS is faulty, or the ISV is faulty.

Mrmerlin

what is the result of the click test for the TPS

safulop

Seems to pass the "click test" both before I started it, and again after I stopped it when it was idling high. Moving the quadrant housing causes the click forward, and again back to rest position. Click in both directions.

Mrmerlin

did you replace the temp 2 sensor connector the wires are usually damaged about 1 to two inches from the end